CE 2.5 on the Pro
- Thread starter bubba94
- Start date
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TurboMatt
Well-known member
You need to drop a tooth on the drivers, cut the rails, install anit-stab wheels & get your chaincase modded by Fasttrax in order to make it work.
As far as how it works, I haven't run one personally on a Pro, but the CE is the best all around track out there IMHO.
You don't HAVE to make those changes. They will definitely help you get the most out of the track. But you can just swap the 2.5 with the stock track. Not sure how someone will do a chaincase mod on a belt drive model........ 
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whittaker727
Well-known member
I did as Matt has mentioned, with the chaincase mod, and dropping drivers, but I do know of a couple of guys running them on stock drivers and no chaincase mod, but their is very minimal clearance between the tip of the paddle and the back of the bulkhead. Many believe that the tight clearance will rob horse power because of the resistance and not being able to evacuate the snow. I must believe that too or I wouldn't have gone through the trouble of changing it. Here's a link to my build with the chaincase mod and the drivers.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300505
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300505
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whittaker727
Well-known member
Not sure how someone will do a chaincase mod on a belt drive model........
Isn't the back half of the chaincase the same on the 13? The actual case is the only thing effected.
I do know for a fact that a 3 inch pitch 2.5 track will not clear the coolers with 3 inch pitch 8 tooth drivers.
Prolly a dumb question. Can you go to a smaller driver with the stock track? If you can will it give you better snow evac and hence some power to the track back.
I ran a CE on my 11 Pro 163 NO PROBLEM. Just swap and ride. A drop an roll kit will help clearance, but to me it's more of an attack angle item. Not worth the extra expence unless you want to do it right and go with a drop chaincase and install 155 rail and pulling your skid back. Then you would have lots of clearance and a very low attack angle. I have no rubbing issues and their enough clearance with stock drivers.. For putting 7 tooth drivers on your 13 it will work but that driver would be mighty small. The 8's are small enough.
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Super Sled
Well-known member
Camoplast now makes Challenger Extreme tracks in 2.86 pitch for the Pro
For 155" long track Pro's:
#9104M -- Single Ply and has center drive hole already cut out.
For 163" long Pro's
#9105M -- Single Ply and has center drive hole cut out.
As stated, the Fastrax mod is nice because it will give you a tad more clearance, BUT, the stock 5.1 track is only 1/10 of an inch shorter than the CE 2.5. Both have pretty tight clearance. So my point is the 2.5 CE will fit just fine and is a great track. I too know a guy with this mod done and it's the track I'm installing on my Pro this summer.
For 155" long track Pro's:
#9104M -- Single Ply and has center drive hole already cut out.
For 163" long Pro's
#9105M -- Single Ply and has center drive hole cut out.
As stated, the Fastrax mod is nice because it will give you a tad more clearance, BUT, the stock 5.1 track is only 1/10 of an inch shorter than the CE 2.5. Both have pretty tight clearance. So my point is the 2.5 CE will fit just fine and is a great track. I too know a guy with this mod done and it's the track I'm installing on my Pro this summer.
I have done this exactly except its not just dropping a tooth on the drivers you are actually going to extroverts and it is a huge improvement over stock.
MM
I ran the 2.5 without the extroverts or the modded chaincase late last season and the clearance was reduced by half. This led to a couple issues of drawing snow in from the top of the skid on down hill turns and locking up the track. Of course that is with heavy spring snow.
MM
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pura vida
Well-known member
i disagree as i have said it multiple other threads. for the vast majority of non-turbo sleds, if you run proper track tension combos/extroverts are completely unnecessary.
pv
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ghost rider
Well-known member
I think the stock Polaris track 163 in soft snow is a much better track and floats much better than the CE 2.5. I swapped track to CE 2.5 and drivers to avid for more clearance and didn't get good results in Idaho snow like I did with stock 5.1 so I switched back. Now in heavier, wetter snow it will shine and results will be different. Not worth the time or money in my opinion
+1 on this
PV.. I think many run the combos because of the added clearance...no involute drivers in 7 tooth..
I see no problems running either... and the old theories of an involute driver being more efficient on a properly set-up and maintained track don't hold as much water as they used to... especially with the advent of single ply mountain tracks... I know that Jack likes them and Carls runs ONLY them... but there is "more than one way to bake a cake"
IMO... the added clearance is a plus in many ways and I have plenty of miles on extro equipped sleds to love them...
But you are right... most sleds don't need them.
Two things to remember... the 2.5" track is a hair more than .10 taller than the stock track when you measure inside of track to lug tip..
A 2.5" Camo Ext will move a more snow through the tunnel...
For those that have it as a "bolt on"... and they work fine... It has been my experinece that worked even better with a bit more clearance.
The Ice Age chaincase is only 5/8" down and about 3/8 back... I dont think that a suspension relocation in needed...
IMO... a simple driver change/trim/ will give you the best of both worlds when running these tall tracks... even stock... especially in spring snow.
My 2 cents. (there are a lot more pennies out there too)
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I agree, with 10 psi boost and the stock drivers at proper factory spec tension, ZERO issues with track racheting. Just make sure its Exactly at the factory tension issue.
And having swapped a camo ext 2.5 on every sled i've had, so far other than braking issues the stock track works very very well. So for now I'm running that. Just so darn good in the powder.
And having swapped a camo ext 2.5 on every sled i've had, so far other than braking issues the stock track works very very well. So for now I'm running that. Just so darn good in the powder.
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Vinnee
Well-known member
Have successfully installed (2) 2.5 CE's on the wifes 2011 155 and my 163 Pro with no issues (Fit)! I don't buy into the tunnel clearance robbing horsepower.... No matter how much clearance you have it seems that there will always be ice and snow caked into the tunnel and rear of the bulkhead leaving 1/4 inch of clearance between the tips of the track and back of bulkhead no matter the scenario. Unless of course your in the sugar...
.... Of course, this observation is simply from the land of the wet and heavy!!
As far as rachetting goes... This has been a problem on my 163 Pro... running stock drivers. Like many on this forum, I was convinced that anti-rachet drivers were not necessary. In most snow conditions they aren't... However, here in Western Washington the snow gets extremely heavy very quick. In the right conditions (often) I deal with rachetting. Most commonly only happens when you really need power and can't let off!
... Seriously.. the condition that causes rachetting almost every time for me is when I come off of a surface and engage another surface with the full length of the track at once. Happens allot on hill climbs were there is a transition or bump that you jump (mid-climb) and then reengage the climb with the full length of the track... I have experimented with every possible track tension with no success. I have come to the conclusion that I need to install drivers.
.... Of course, this observation is simply from the land of the wet and heavy!!As far as rachetting goes... This has been a problem on my 163 Pro... running stock drivers. Like many on this forum, I was convinced that anti-rachet drivers were not necessary. In most snow conditions they aren't... However, here in Western Washington the snow gets extremely heavy very quick. In the right conditions (often) I deal with rachetting. Most commonly only happens when you really need power and can't let off!
... Seriously.. the condition that causes rachetting almost every time for me is when I come off of a surface and engage another surface with the full length of the track at once. Happens allot on hill climbs were there is a transition or bump that you jump (mid-climb) and then reengage the climb with the full length of the track... I have experimented with every possible track tension with no success. I have come to the conclusion that I need to install drivers.Vinnee does your track ratchet braking down hill? That is the only time I have run into it on my Pro 163. I have to run the track tight to not have it happen. Didn't even know what it was until I made a post on SW about a clunky mechanical noise when braking down hill. Again, never under power and i run in wet Washington too.
