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Cat turbo suspension set up

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G

Going West

Well-known member
Just got my Turbo form my M1000 and need some advice on how or if the stock skid can handle the extra ponies. Dont really want to dump alot of extra $$$ for a aftermarket suspension this year so if i can mod the stock one ill go that route till next year.

We ride alot of trees so some transfer is a must but i dont want the skis dangling 5 ft in the air all the time.

Thanks in advance
 
i would of got the Kmod with some Exit shocks.....but i budget was passed a few dollars ago. So i went with the simple rear coupler from OVS, its $300
 
I am going to be running the 2009 stock float skid with zbro's rear and center shocks insted of the float and zero pro. I thought about buying the OVS wheelie stopper too, but I am going to try it like this first
 
Does anyone have any experience with the OVS kit. Is i more for big shoots and open bowls or is it good for the trees as well.
 
Put some exit shocks like lefty under your skid that will help with the added power and transfer. I've got some for sale that are in great shape!
 
Got a stock 09 under our hcr, I don't see a need for any changes, we've gone from skis stuck to the ground, to all the transfer you want, and anywhere in between.

At 13 lbs I felt that going back to the upper front suspension hole would be a good thing & letting off the front shock pressure would also help.

I like the limiter all the way out even at higher boost, I like my skis about 2 foot above the snow so if that's not what you're looking for you may not want the limiter all the way out.
 
It is my experience that the stock float skid still has limited transfer and not enough travel in front to work properly. You will have too much tail stand with the turbo and will be wheelie'ing way to much. The rear of the skid will continuously trench. Kevin at K-Mod can modify the stock float suspension so it will perform properly and have similar characteristics as his custom gen II skids. All this for (don't quote me) somewhere around &1000.00 I believe. I will know more after I ride it some here soon :)
 
$1k just to mod the existing skid? that seems steep considering how reasonable his skids are?

I have to say, the Kmod is the only skid I've never heard a bad thing about.

I wish there were a few of them around here, I'd love to try one! Sounds like they can take a pounding as well.
 
What about doing a revalve. Most people seem to think it make a big difference, but is dont think ive read anything about a revalved turbo sled
 
My stock skid was revalved. Still like to hear more of what others are doing though :)
 
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OVS's adaptor is the way to go for high hp. It will allow you to run the limiter strap all the way out for a better ride but keep the wheelie's to what ever you prefer. Its adjustable to the amount you want. I havent got it on the snow yet but after running stock last year I cant wait!
 
From my research on the ovs transfer blocks, your suspension is still not going to travel enough to help any and with the blocks, your reducing your rear travel almost in half which is going to give an even harder ride on the trails. It will keep your front end down some but will only increase the trench factor. A bandaid at best from what I can disifer (maybe Travis or Garr could chime in here). Just what I have heard, not personal experience. Someone with personal experience with these could give some imput here hopefully.


OVS's adaptor is the way to go for high hp. It will allow you to run the limiter strap all the way out for a better ride but keep the wheelie's to what ever you prefer. Its adjustable to the amount you want. I havent got it on the snow yet but after running stock last year I cant wait!
 
dosnt ovs transfer blocks couple the suspension if so wouldnt it decrease trenching?, instead of being a wheelie machine with the rear of the skid collapsed and the front exstended way out creating a horrible aprouch angle??
 
The front will only extend out as much as the limiters allow and when you block the rear travel it doesn't allow for the skid to climb up on the snow, thus your always plowing.
 
so putting the transfer block in i take it, its not simular to a timbersled rear skid? because i thought puting the the block in when the rear collapsed the front collapsed also creating a better aproach angle because when the suspension collapse it collapse up and back. iam just wondering because iam turboing my dragon and its got way to much transfer and trenches horibly. i played with my limitiers tight and loose just to see the difference tight is way better. i do alot of tight tree rideing so being out of controll is not an option as well. it seems to trench the worst when iam at a dead stop or very slow on an incline and nail the throttle.

so does the ovs unit a poormans timbersled skid by that i mean does it couple the suspension
 
Im sure travis or garr can put this togethere better then me but Ill take a shot. It does couple the suspension, which when your under alot of power then and only then does it get activated. this then stops the rotation of the sled (ski lift under acceleration) which is were the problem occurs. The amount of coupling is fully adjustable, the real good suspensions like the m10 or ezride are coupled if im not mistaken.
To go into coupling some people dont like it but with the kind of power the turbo's put out you need something. The other way is to suck the limiter straps all the way up to help keep the nose down, then put up with a sled that rides like crap when the skis are down.
It may not be as perfect as a $2k rear suspension but its a heck of an improvement over stock for 350.
The one thing to remember is the coupler is only working under hard power, so crusing down the trail or through the woods it doesnt work drop the hammer it does.
 
Got a stock 09 under our hcr, I don't see a need for any changes, we've gone from skis stuck to the ground, to all the transfer you want, and anywhere in between.

At 13 lbs I felt that going back to the upper front suspension hole would be a good thing & letting off the front shock pressure would also help.

I like the limiter all the way out even at higher boost, I like my skis about 2 foot above the snow so if that's not what you're looking for you may not want the limiter all the way out.

So is 09 skid better than 07,08? I am wanting to boost an m1000 and am trying to decide if I should pony up the extra money for an 09. I have found some 07 m1000's with diamond lights and power claws or camo extremes for a lot less than an 09, but if there is a big difference in traction I might want to spend the money to buy a newer sled than to put it into a skid on an older model. P.S. I am only planning on running pump gas
 
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So is 09 skid better than 07,08? I am wanting to boost an m1000 and am trying to decide if I should pony up the extra money for an 09. I have found some 07 m1000's with diamond lights and power claws or camo extremes for a lot less than an 09, but if there is a big difference in traction I might want to spend the money to buy a newer sled than to put it into a skid on an older model. P.S. I am only planning on running pump gas

if you can find an 07 with a p claw or a camo extreme and some of the other goodies buy that and put the fox float conversion on and you have the same skid as an 09. Then you could do what i did and update the fox floats with exits
 
The diamond drive is the biggest reason I switched, if your going to run boost it needs to be changed. Found out the hard way. Chances are if you dont buy a sled with the diamond light which I dont remember the cost your going to have to buy one. then no reverse. Add that into your purchase price.

Travis said they had better luck with the older rear suspension then the new one for keeping the front down. suspension isnt affected that much but the skis in the air all time gets old.
 
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