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carls cycle 910 engine questions

R

renotay

New member
Im looking into trading my 2003 vertical escape for the same sled with a carls cycle 910 kit. The 910 broke a rod and the owner has bought a jj machinery crank and pulled and disassembled the motor.

I was looking the motor over and the cylinders looked good, with the cross hatch still visible, but when i sat one down it almost fell over. One of the 4 little tabs on the bottom of the cylinder skirt was broken off. I didnt look at the inside of the case to see if it had slammed around inside there but i guess ill have to check it out if i go to trade him. I think that it would still run good but has anybody ran one without one of the tabs?

The pistons have some light scoring on the tward the bottom of the skirts, you can feel some of them a little but most are just visible, i figured it had been overheated a time or two. no blow by but id have to check the ring gap i guess.

Any suggestions?
 
I had a 910 for a couple of years and i can tell you this you can send that cylinder in for repair but the peice of skirt will just break off again. the tall studs holding the cylinders down are prone to breaking just under the base nut. When mine ran for the first year and a half it was awsome after the skirt issue it was down hill. i sold it off in parts and the next guy had the same issues. you could try it but Chances are it will end the same way. I have seen this on other 910s as well. There may be a number on the back base of the cylinder if you want me to check on it send me that number.
 
3 years ago I broke a crank in my 910 and broke that tab off. I had it fixed by Langcourt in Alabama and haven't had any problems since.

At that time I also got updated cylinder studs from Carl's.

I have loved my 910... they can be a bit tough to get the base gasket to seal up and not leak antifreeze, but mine runs terrific and has been more than reliable other than the standard 800 crank breaking. When it broke the last time I splurged for the IndyDan bottomend.

sled_guy
 
Oh yes this has just been what i have seen others may have different experiances.Why is the guy wanting to trade?And i had the up dated studs as well but would still break once in a while.the motor had great power and was very quick.We also ran the bored 40s and the slides would break and go through the engine on a pretty regular basis.
 
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Ok should I just run it with the piece broke off? I heard that carls will swap the sleeve with a new one for 250 but I don't really want to have to do that until summer. I think the motor has the updated studs on it.

The guy I'm trading with has 8 broken sleds on his backyard and no time to fix them all so I figured it'd be a pretty fair deal
 
A new sleeve? these cylinders did not have a sleeve. I guess it's your call on whether to run it or not.Like i said get the number off the base on the back side and i will find out what all has been done to that cylinder and if it has been rebuilt before>
 
maybe its a whole new cylinder but i could be wrong. i left a message at carls to find out.

ok I dont think im gonna pick up the sled til like friday but when i do ill send you the numbers
 
Base gaskets

I'm on my second 910 & love the power. 1st 910 was an early generation with 1 peice head. Never had any stud problems but cylinders were a different casing & think had shorter studs. It felt stronger than my current engine but it had hi comp ratio. My new 910 had lots of stud problem before I purchased it & installed Carls / ARP upgraded studs. Now having issues with burning coolant. Not pressuring up the overflow so guessing its base gaskets. Going to pressure test coolant system before jerking it apart again. The first time I had it apart install gaskets dry. Second attemp used case sealer on both sides. Going to check the top case deck for straight & may refill corners with epoxy if it dosn't look perfect. Any tricks or info that might help would be great.
 
Maybe some one else can chime in but what we seen was the crank shop cylinder's are very pourous plus the porting and can have some leaks. we had to epoxy in the water jacket area to help stop this. And yes the putty I had issues there as well, when i built my 1200 i had all that stuff welded and then machined so the base gasketts had more surface area. I would do this with any motor now. The way the skirt is cut out I wonder if you left a bridge across the top of it if it would hold up? I think it would, but would you give up a gross amount of power?
 
I had one 910 cylinder with a leak in one of the ports that was letting fluid leak in. It was new and Carl's fixed it free of charge. I found it by pressure testing the system after assembly.

You have to use that 1211 sealant or whatever the number is on the base gaskets or they will leak. Also, they have metal base gaskets now which are better than the paper ones were.

sled_guy
 
Does anyone have any tips on timing one of these?

I talked to carls and they said it was supposed to be 31* @ 4000 rpms, i cant find a timing curve chart for a stock sled so do i need to turn the stator one way or another, and how much?

Thanks
 
They like 4 degrees of advance. You turn the stator plate... uh... counter clockwise.

I use a degree wheel to mark the clutch at 31 degrees then use a regular timing light to check it.

sled_guy
 
O-Rings

Sounds like the Straightline 910 I am looking at needs new heads. I was thinking about taking it to Carl's and see what they thought about it.
 
They like 4 degrees of advance. You turn the stator plate... uh... counter clockwise.

I use a degree wheel to mark the clutch at 31 degrees then use a regular timing light to check it.

sled_guy

correct me if I am wrong but im pretty sure the stock stator will only turn 3.5 degrees MAX.

Also depends on if the sled in question is one with perc or one without The non perc fly wheel was 14 degrees. The perc flywheel is 18 degrees....



Does anyone have any tips on timing one of these?

I talked to carls and they said it was supposed to be 31* @ 4000 rpms, i cant find a timing curve chart for a stock sled so do i need to turn the stator one way or another, and how much?

Thanks


Stock Timing for the 800's...


The 02 was 29 to 29.5 degree's at 3200 RPM's @ BDC with TPS disconnected.

03 800 Timing was 28 degree's @ 3200 RPM's

04, and 05 used the base 28 degrees @ 3200 RPM's. and the ECU used similar timing with slight changes in the mid range numbers. But basically the same as the 03 was.
 
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You can get 5 degrees out of the stator on the Edge 800.

The 31 degrees at 4k puts you 4 degrees advanced on at 3200.

sled_guy
 
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