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Carls 900 Clutching, Who's Changed Theirs?

I would think it should have a little more top end, definitely way more bottom/midrange if it's anything like my old ves Carl's 910. Maybe try a primary setup like kc is using?


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I would say get a lighter secondary spring and take some weight out of your primary.

There is a YouTube video on clutching that slp did, and they explain that the stiffer the secondary spring is the better the sled will sound but at the same time not really seem like it is pulling. You just get really good rpms and easy to maintain them on pulls. The hill climbers use stiff springs so as they are in and out of the throttle there rpms bounce back very quickly. I have tried heavier secondary springs and that seems to be pretty consistent with what I was noticing. I think you'll give up a little throttle response with the softer secondary but your gain some more top end speed. I guess it just depends on how you ride and what you are going after . If you want to play in the trees. Usually better throttle response . I use a higher initial cut on my helix to get this. And with the torque of the 910 it pulls it really easy. Bit then with the softer spring I feel like I get a little better bite on the belt.

Whittaker- what are the spring rates you have isn't the black gold like a 160-280 or something like that?

Did you find out the helix angle?
 
So, I'm actually switching to the H5 alloy springs that I had in my turbo. Not the exact same spec springs, but same material.
The primary will be 140-335
The secondary will be 160-240 compared to 175/240
That's what Kinzer (SPS) ran in their 858 and it seemed to do very well. I'm interested to see if maybe I was getting some heat related fading too.
 
I found with mine that it was good for short bursts but if I would hold it wide open up a good hill the power would really drop off. A lot worse than a stock sled
 
So, I've changed a few things and so far I can say it's an improvement for me. I ditched the EPI 66gr weights and went with the Team Rooster weights, loaded in the heal with 68.5 gr and my RPM on the hill went back up to 8200/8250 I switched to the Speedwerks H5 alloy 140-335 primary and I bought a secondary spring too, but can't get the damn torx bolts out of the helix to replace it. So far, in deep snow on the steeper hills and trees, I really like it. I'm still building A LOT of belt heat and can't really figure that out yet. I'm lacking about 1" of full shift out on my primary, but Carls said that it's almost impossible to get it to shift all the way out on a mountain sled. Anyhow, just thought I'd share an update. More testing to come...
 
Them helix bolts can be a pain. Best way I found is to lock the brake and put back on the jackshaft backwards for a solid hold and heat em till they break loose. Good torx bits are a must and sometimes a impact driver will help.
 
So, in case anyone is thinking about changing your clutching on your 900 kit, don't do it. Turns out adding weight to their kit will blow up your motor. They'll even read your thread about clutching their big bore, not say anything publicly or privately and let your sled blow up so they can make more money. Now, I can't say one way or the other on the PAR, RKT or any other kit, but apparently clutching will blow up a stock sled too. Moral of this story is buy stock and leave it that way.
 
I went from the EPI 66gr weights to Team Rooster 67.5gr. No DET, no codes. I'm just telling you what I was told. Do I agree? NO. Sled never saw over 8250 rpm. The guru said it was over rev in the mid range that did it.
 
Hard to believer rooster loaded that heavy would let it over rev in the mid. Especially using a 140/330 spring. I know they liked to be loaded heavy in the bottom and mid.

Did is spin the crank? What went out?
 
Stuck the PTO side piston. No DET from over rev, no damage to the mag side. Sound like over rev to you? Me either.
 
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