Carb Icing Timbersled Kit
- Thread starter AkBob
- Start date
this has been used a bunch
this is what i had done. what was happening on this before heating is the throat would become a thin layer of ice blocking the air bleed holes.
this is what i had done. what was happening on this before heating is the throat would become a thin layer of ice blocking the air bleed holes.
A
Ausm7499
Well-known member
Thanks for the pictures I hear you on the ice build up, I typically have the ice build up so bad that the bike won't run and the slide won't even go down all the way. Carb icing is a good way to ruin a perfectly good day, I had this happening on my 525 too but it's a lot less prevalent on a 4strk due to the elevated operating temp's. How did you route the coolant? You obviously didn't route all of the flow through that tinny tube, did you just tee into one of your coolant hoses with a smaller line and loop it back?
yep
just T 'd it in from one line to carb then back. I think the feed was from inbetween the 2 rads. then to carb then back into water pump feed. this year im using it in area 51 and will t it in right from motor out (hotest) to carb then to cooler intake. not sure if it will get to hot that way but will have a shut off valve in to shutt it off.
Are you running a dial a jet or anything???
just T 'd it in from one line to carb then back. I think the feed was from inbetween the 2 rads. then to carb then back into water pump feed. this year im using it in area 51 and will t it in right from motor out (hotest) to carb then to cooler intake. not sure if it will get to hot that way but will have a shut off valve in to shutt it off.
Are you running a dial a jet or anything???
M
mtn-doo
Well-known member
Great thread.
Here's some ideas. We have been trying to seal off the airboxes to prevent snow so much that the engine is sucking a bowling ball to get air. They already NEED more air, not less. I think we are chasing the problem the wrong dirrection. Remove all foam, frog skin's etc. Then,
Option #1 - cut the floor out of the air box. The snow will fall through and not fill up. Your engine will not suck hard for air. Pre-filter stays clean. Don't keep trying to seal it tighter and tighter. We are compounding the problem of air access to the engine.
Option #2 - Remove the entire air box. Get a "Bending, reducing,coupling from Frozen Boost, 2.5" for the carb end or 2.25 for fuel injected bikes, 45degree bend to a 3" end. On the 3' end add an outerwears torbo snowmobile pre-filter. The entire unit sticks under your seat, no snow build-up, totally free air access to your engine.
Carb Ice; Most carb bikes use the same carb demension. The PWK39 is most popular. The other PWK models have the same carb body, only a different throat bore and slide, jetting, etc. Get the KTM 300KCW electric carb heater. Drill the "Bosses" indicated in the instructions, and install. It comes with a thermostat controlling the power demands. I am by-passing the thermostat with a small rocker switch mounted on my plastics. Turn it on and your carb is heated. Off on those warm set-up days.
Next; The snow blasting against the carb super-cools the aluminum. Take an old set of Klim pants or Jacket, or similar Gortex material, cut a pattern and make a "jacket" to wrap around your carb or throttle body. Sew velcro to the inside seams for easy on and off. Your carb or throttle body will stay warm and dry all day.
Last; But not least, install a KTM inline thermostat. 70C/160F to keep engine temps up.
These three mod's will provide a warm engine and carb, no airbox snow, and abundant free flowing air.
Here's some ideas. We have been trying to seal off the airboxes to prevent snow so much that the engine is sucking a bowling ball to get air. They already NEED more air, not less. I think we are chasing the problem the wrong dirrection. Remove all foam, frog skin's etc. Then,
Option #1 - cut the floor out of the air box. The snow will fall through and not fill up. Your engine will not suck hard for air. Pre-filter stays clean. Don't keep trying to seal it tighter and tighter. We are compounding the problem of air access to the engine.
Option #2 - Remove the entire air box. Get a "Bending, reducing,coupling from Frozen Boost, 2.5" for the carb end or 2.25 for fuel injected bikes, 45degree bend to a 3" end. On the 3' end add an outerwears torbo snowmobile pre-filter. The entire unit sticks under your seat, no snow build-up, totally free air access to your engine.
Carb Ice; Most carb bikes use the same carb demension. The PWK39 is most popular. The other PWK models have the same carb body, only a different throat bore and slide, jetting, etc. Get the KTM 300KCW electric carb heater. Drill the "Bosses" indicated in the instructions, and install. It comes with a thermostat controlling the power demands. I am by-passing the thermostat with a small rocker switch mounted on my plastics. Turn it on and your carb is heated. Off on those warm set-up days.
Next; The snow blasting against the carb super-cools the aluminum. Take an old set of Klim pants or Jacket, or similar Gortex material, cut a pattern and make a "jacket" to wrap around your carb or throttle body. Sew velcro to the inside seams for easy on and off. Your carb or throttle body will stay warm and dry all day.
Last; But not least, install a KTM inline thermostat. 70C/160F to keep engine temps up.
These three mod's will provide a warm engine and carb, no airbox snow, and abundant free flowing air.
Last edited:
A
Ausm7499
Well-known member
I am just running regular jets and never have to mess with my jetting. The elevation difference from where I unload to where I ride is usually less than 3k so If I am a little lean when I leave the truck I am just about right on the mountain.
For those asking about the KTM carb heater kit I tried it on my 300 and could never tell a difference with it but I am not 100% sure it was even working. I ran it until the probe broke and shorted out. I think the key to preventing carb icing is getting some type of cover over the carb to keep the snow off. I have rode on days that were deep enough and cold enough that I don't think a blow torch would keep the carb from icing because the snow gets packed in there so fast.
M
Mofood
New member
Option #2 - Remove the entire air box. Get a "Bending, reducing,coupling from Frozen Boost, 2.5" for the carb end or 2.25 for fuel injected bikes, 45degree bend to a 3" end. On the 3' end add an outerwears torbo snowmobile pre-filter. The entire unit sticks under your seat, no snow build-up, totally free air access to your engine.
So, you are using no filter at all then? Just the prefilters mesh? I'd like to go this route. Just want to make sure I'm understanding properly. I know the risk of inhaling dirty air is minimal in the snow..
Great thread
So, you are using no filter at all then? Just the prefilters mesh? I'd like to go this route. Just want to make sure I'm understanding properly. I know the risk of inhaling dirty air is minimal in the snow..
Great thread
J
johnny be bad
Well-known member
building my own air intake. will let ya know how it works
J
johnny be bad
Well-known member
just adding some rear holes and i'll let ya know how it works
