Can't get above 6,000rpm
- Thread starter ssearle
- Start date
That fancy snow flap should read: "live to build, build to live"
LMFAO!!
I LOVE THAT ONE....but i hate you more Dan...
LOL....yes sir...i am in the Fire Dept in the Airforce!!
I am a Captain in the FD....greatest job on EARTH!!!
Yes...you can have it...as soon as i total it!
heres my other 900, 2005 RMK 975cc big bore 166 track, installing trail tank on it now...
heres the wifeys sled...06 RMK 700 159 track...will be all pink and black this summer...got ice age rails, boss seat, zbroz arms, skinz bumper just installed as well.
enjoy sir..(get a premiere membership and you can all the goodies whenever you want, lol)
hope you get your bad boy going...i got faith in ya....bring it to the station and clean it all perty when your done like i do..LOL!!
that explains alot.....yer a paptian in the chair force, and im a SFC in the army resreve
no wonder i cant afford the goody's you can
no wonder i cant afford the goody's you can
LOL..
not a captain as in O-3 rank....caption in the Fire Dept...i am only an E-5 in the chair force, LOL...HUA!!
lol...that makes sence...guess i can still talk to you since you haven't had the labotomy yet.....im a E-7.....i know different rank structure and all......at one point i was AD at NTC (you've heard of that right?)
good to know someone else besides me is in.....the way my feb is planned im not sure why i bought a sled again...only weekend ill have off is 19-20
fricking DSOY board the 10-13....just got done with school and AT
you know dennis out in supply at the MTANG? used to hual engines for him alot, then i sold my truck
good to know someone else besides me is in.....the way my feb is planned im not sure why i bought a sled again...only weekend ill have off is 19-20
fricking DSOY board the 10-13....just got done with school and AT
you know dennis out in supply at the MTANG? used to hual engines for him alot, then i sold my truck
S
ssearle
New member
next step?
Okay, I've tested every wire on that sled with an ohm meter. Here's what I've found: wire harness good throughout, from the plug on wire harness to rear tail light and thumb warmer do not complete a circuit. Do I keep with the plan of swapping ecu's, exhaust/slp, det, anything else I can see that I haven't already swapped or would those two circuits cause my problem? Should I put the sled back together, unplug those two plugs and see if I'm good to go or keep digging?
Thanks.
Okay, I've tested every wire on that sled with an ohm meter. Here's what I've found: wire harness good throughout, from the plug on wire harness to rear tail light and thumb warmer do not complete a circuit. Do I keep with the plan of swapping ecu's, exhaust/slp, det, anything else I can see that I haven't already swapped or would those two circuits cause my problem? Should I put the sled back together, unplug those two plugs and see if I'm good to go or keep digging?
Thanks.
M
miller tools
Well-known member
wires
Just fix the wires your there then recheck that should fix your problem
Just fix the wires your there then recheck that should fix your problem
D
Danbot
Well-known member
I hate you too Sean..... I hate you too
S
ssearle
New member
I'm on it...
Will do. I didn't want to put the sled back together if those two problems wouldn't cause my sled to max at 6K rpm. I wasn't sure if I should keep digging and swapping other sensors from my other sled first. I will fix those two problems, put it back together and see if she works. I'll update.
Will do. I didn't want to put the sled back together if those two problems wouldn't cause my sled to max at 6K rpm. I wasn't sure if I should keep digging and swapping other sensors from my other sled first. I will fix those two problems, put it back together and see if she works. I'll update.
S
ssearle
New member
Okay, now I've done everything
I've now officially swapped every electrical component on that sled with that of an identical sled (but working properly) and fixed the two wiring issues with thumb warmer and rear tail light. The sled still won't go past 6,000 rpm and still idles poorly. And yes, I built the tps setting tool and set tps as video shows. The only way to get it to idle great is to lean out the idle set screw and turn up the tps but still won't go above 6,000 rpm.
Anyone have any other ideas?
Help, I'm dying here.
I've now officially swapped every electrical component on that sled with that of an identical sled (but working properly) and fixed the two wiring issues with thumb warmer and rear tail light. The sled still won't go past 6,000 rpm and still idles poorly. And yes, I built the tps setting tool and set tps as video shows. The only way to get it to idle great is to lean out the idle set screw and turn up the tps but still won't go above 6,000 rpm.
Anyone have any other ideas?
Help, I'm dying here.
any one have any thoughts on the clutch being so worn out its binding and not letting the clutch shift out?
S
ssearle
New member
what next
Everything electric has been swapped on this machine, tps reset again (at .71 and .94 at idle), fuel injectors sonic cleaned, fuel filter replaced, fuel pressure good, compression good, ecu flashed for slp pipe, power valves and bellows swapped, and reeds checked/cleaned.
Here's whats happening:
Doesn't idle unless you hold throttle a little. Max rpm is 6,000. Doesn't go into reverse.
At one point today I thought I might have misunderstood the throttle plates being closed vs. open and so cranked the counter idle screw down all the way and reset tps. When I started the sled it still didn't idle great, but when I gave it throttle it shot up to 8,000-8,500 rpm. I let it come down a couple times and shot it back up without problem. I assumed I had fixed the problem on getting it to go above 6,000 rpm but still no reverse. I adjusted tps sensor a little to try and get idle up a little and fix reverse. Didn't work and now wouldn't go above 6,000 rpm. So, I adjusted tps sensor back to .94 (exactly where everything was at when sled did go above 6,000 rpm 5 min. earlier only now sled won't go above 6,000 rpm again.
What the crap???
Everything electric has been swapped on this machine, tps reset again (at .71 and .94 at idle), fuel injectors sonic cleaned, fuel filter replaced, fuel pressure good, compression good, ecu flashed for slp pipe, power valves and bellows swapped, and reeds checked/cleaned.
Here's whats happening:
Doesn't idle unless you hold throttle a little. Max rpm is 6,000. Doesn't go into reverse.
At one point today I thought I might have misunderstood the throttle plates being closed vs. open and so cranked the counter idle screw down all the way and reset tps. When I started the sled it still didn't idle great, but when I gave it throttle it shot up to 8,000-8,500 rpm. I let it come down a couple times and shot it back up without problem. I assumed I had fixed the problem on getting it to go above 6,000 rpm but still no reverse. I adjusted tps sensor a little to try and get idle up a little and fix reverse. Didn't work and now wouldn't go above 6,000 rpm. So, I adjusted tps sensor back to .94 (exactly where everything was at when sled did go above 6,000 rpm 5 min. earlier only now sled won't go above 6,000 rpm again.
What the crap???
S
ssearle
New member
answer
I did swap ecu and pipes and literally every sensor and electrical component on the sled except for the following: tail light, water temp. sensor. Everything from this sled is now on the other sled and it still runs great and everything from that sled is now on the non working sled. Before I changed tps this last time, if I unplugged the tps harness and started it, the machine would idle great.
Should I swap the throttle body/intake? I can't imagine that would make a difference but???
I will try to figure out a way to post a video.
I did swap ecu and pipes and literally every sensor and electrical component on the sled except for the following: tail light, water temp. sensor. Everything from this sled is now on the other sled and it still runs great and everything from that sled is now on the non working sled. Before I changed tps this last time, if I unplugged the tps harness and started it, the machine would idle great.
Should I swap the throttle body/intake? I can't imagine that would make a difference but???
I will try to figure out a way to post a video.
D
Danbot
Well-known member
Well it seems like you might have located the problem in your TPS since you were able to change it's habits, and it revved up for you finally.
It might be your wording, but to me it sounds like your fiddling with the TPS, idle screw, and sync crew are kinda random. Are you sure you have followed the TPS setting instructions correctly?
It might be your wording, but to me it sounds like your fiddling with the TPS, idle screw, and sync crew are kinda random. Are you sure you have followed the TPS setting instructions correctly?
S
ssearle
New member
tps
I set the tps to the video, I think. I completely removed throttle body and started with baseline and went through entire process. The only part that kept confusing me was the throttle plates being closed or open. It said to open the throttle plates and then close again and the closed number is the one were supposed to write down and set counter idle screw to after putting spring back in. The number I wrote down was with no throttle, the idle screw backed out, counter screw backed out, and the spring removed. But the plates didn't close completely and that's the part that's confusing me. There was still a very small gap. Did I do this correctly and is that the correct voltage number to write down and adjust back to with spring in using counter screw?
Anyway, if I did that right, than I adjusted tps that way first and when that didn't work, that's when I started trying to adjust the idle screw and tps sensor based on the sound of the engine and how it was running. Doing it that way I could get a good idle 1,400 rpm and ran great up to 6,000 rpm but still not higher. The last thing I did was adjust the counter screw all the way down wondering if I had done the first sequence wrong and thought maybe "closed throttle plates" meant the other direction. This is the one time the sled shot up to 8,000 rpm. Unfortunately, I can't re-create that though. So I don't know if that was just a coincidence or what.
Sorry for the long story. Very interested in your thoughts though. I'm at a complete stand still.
I set the tps to the video, I think. I completely removed throttle body and started with baseline and went through entire process. The only part that kept confusing me was the throttle plates being closed or open. It said to open the throttle plates and then close again and the closed number is the one were supposed to write down and set counter idle screw to after putting spring back in. The number I wrote down was with no throttle, the idle screw backed out, counter screw backed out, and the spring removed. But the plates didn't close completely and that's the part that's confusing me. There was still a very small gap. Did I do this correctly and is that the correct voltage number to write down and adjust back to with spring in using counter screw?
Anyway, if I did that right, than I adjusted tps that way first and when that didn't work, that's when I started trying to adjust the idle screw and tps sensor based on the sound of the engine and how it was running. Doing it that way I could get a good idle 1,400 rpm and ran great up to 6,000 rpm but still not higher. The last thing I did was adjust the counter screw all the way down wondering if I had done the first sequence wrong and thought maybe "closed throttle plates" meant the other direction. This is the one time the sled shot up to 8,000 rpm. Unfortunately, I can't re-create that though. So I don't know if that was just a coincidence or what.
Sorry for the long story. Very interested in your thoughts though. I'm at a complete stand still.
D
Danbot
Well-known member
Ok, I'll try and explain what your doing and why through the TPS setting procedure. Someone PLEASE correct me if I get something wrong lol.
First verify that your TPS setting tool has an output voltage of 5.00v
With the throttle body assembly removed and sitting on your bench:
-loosen the idle screw lock nut, and then loosen the idle screw until the tip of the screw is no longer in contact with the tab on the throttle lever.
-loosen the synchronization screw until the sync tab is touching the sync screw hole.
-Connect your TPS setting tool.
-Carefully remove the sync spring DONT LET IT GO FLYING!
-Gently open, and then close the throttle plates.
Removing the sync spring and loosening the sync screw allows the throttle plate that is connected to the TPS sensor to fully close independent of the other throttle plate. At this point is when you are told to gently open, and then close the throttle plates.... again, this is just to be sure the throttle plate connected to the TPS sensor closes fully.
-Note the voltage at this point
Now you are told to "note the voltage at this point". This is because once you install the sync spring in the next step, the pressure it creates is going to force the throttle plate connected to the TPS sensor open a bit which will alter your voltage reading...... then you adjust the sync screw until your tool reads the voltage you took note of in the previous step.... then your throttle plates will be synchronized.
-Install the sync spring
-tighten the sync screw until your tool reads the voltage previously noted
Your throttle plates are now synchronized!
Now it's time to set your baseline voltage:
-loosen TPS sensor screws and adjust TPS to .705v - .715v on your tool. The tighten the screws.
Aim for the middle: .710v This can take a little time, the reading will change when you tighten the TPS sensor screws. I usually very slowly open and close the throttle plates a few times to be sure I get exactly .710v before I proceed to the next step.
Your baseline voltage is now set!
-Tighten the idle screw to a reading of .930v on your tool, and then tighten the idle screw lock nut. Remove your TPS tool and install throttle body.
Again, I open and close the throttle plates very slowly until I get exactly .930v with the lock nut tight.
Your idle voltage is now set and your done! Only small changes to idle should be necessary from this point if any. Do not make any adjustments to the TPS sensor or sync screw or you will have to start at the beginning again.
First verify that your TPS setting tool has an output voltage of 5.00v
With the throttle body assembly removed and sitting on your bench:
-loosen the idle screw lock nut, and then loosen the idle screw until the tip of the screw is no longer in contact with the tab on the throttle lever.
-loosen the synchronization screw until the sync tab is touching the sync screw hole.
-Connect your TPS setting tool.
-Carefully remove the sync spring DONT LET IT GO FLYING!
-Gently open, and then close the throttle plates.
Removing the sync spring and loosening the sync screw allows the throttle plate that is connected to the TPS sensor to fully close independent of the other throttle plate. At this point is when you are told to gently open, and then close the throttle plates.... again, this is just to be sure the throttle plate connected to the TPS sensor closes fully.
-Note the voltage at this point
Now you are told to "note the voltage at this point". This is because once you install the sync spring in the next step, the pressure it creates is going to force the throttle plate connected to the TPS sensor open a bit which will alter your voltage reading...... then you adjust the sync screw until your tool reads the voltage you took note of in the previous step.... then your throttle plates will be synchronized.
-Install the sync spring
-tighten the sync screw until your tool reads the voltage previously noted
Your throttle plates are now synchronized!
Now it's time to set your baseline voltage:
-loosen TPS sensor screws and adjust TPS to .705v - .715v on your tool. The tighten the screws.
Aim for the middle: .710v This can take a little time, the reading will change when you tighten the TPS sensor screws. I usually very slowly open and close the throttle plates a few times to be sure I get exactly .710v before I proceed to the next step.
Your baseline voltage is now set!
-Tighten the idle screw to a reading of .930v on your tool, and then tighten the idle screw lock nut. Remove your TPS tool and install throttle body.
Again, I open and close the throttle plates very slowly until I get exactly .930v with the lock nut tight.
Your idle voltage is now set and your done! Only small changes to idle should be necessary from this point if any. Do not make any adjustments to the TPS sensor or sync screw or you will have to start at the beginning again.
