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Can it !!

SixtySevenGT

Well-known member
Premium Member
So I have a nicely built 2005 900 / 166, with a list of options that would fill the page.

I was running the SLP pipe with a CPI stinger.


I found when I fired it up the Trailer the Women and Chidren where running for cover in the parking lot staring at the Trailer to see what kind of Monster was about to emerge.

My riding buddys liked the fact the could always find me on the Hill because of the Noise.
They would distance themselves on the Trail and I was almost going Deaf.

Nice Power, on the High end.

Does anyone have a DB reading on this stinger compared to StocK ?

So I put the matching SLP lead weight Can on, Killed the top end.

I have an oportunity to buy the Whole Dyno port set up

Y, Pipe, Can Plus the Barker Can.


The Word is the Stock Dyno Port Can is 5 -6 DB more than stock,
the Barker is about 10+ louder.


Is the the CPI Stinger like 50+ DB louder , just trying to draw a reference before I buy this setup.


I would hope the Dyno Barker is some where between the CPI and the SLP
for Noise.
 
im running the cpi can on one of my 900s, and the slp on the other, and really didnt think that the cpi was that much louder. you can definetly tell the difference between the two, but didnt think the cpi was amazingly loud. couple friends of mine even said they thought the slp was louder than the cpi. both my sleds are 06s with the slp pipe and flash.
 
lee.

you should pull the stinger apart and throw some packing on each muffler baffle...there isnt really anything inside there to soften the DBs..i think the CPI can is the way to go IMO. im not a fan of Dynoport at all, and you will have to go back to stock ecu flash as well.

so try the packing (like a 2 stroke dirtbike muffler pack job) and see what you think...Danbot did this and loved the results from what i remember.
 
Search... how to repack a cpi can. And you will find my thread on how to re-pack the cpi stingers! I almost guarantee there is zero packing left in your can!
 
Found the Article -how to repack a cpi can

I will head down to Carl's and get some packing, have Mig will travel.
 
I had several slp pieces of crap. Switched to the stinger and it was loud at hell like you said but much better power. Switched to a dynoport and it is perfect. Deeper sound than the slp, quieter than the cpi and the power is great. SLP can feels like you have a banana or something stuck in the pipe compared to the Dynoport.
 
Nothing you can do to the stinger will make it quiet short of plugging the hole in the end or filling the entire thing full of packing. Even if you are not going deaf you can cause permanent ear damage to your friends with that damn thing.
 
I will head down to Carl's and get some packing, have Mig will travel.

if you put the can back together with rivets on the bottom caps, make sure you shoot some hi-temp silicone in the hole in the middle of the rivets, if your stems pull out when you set the rivets, my stems pulled through and the can leaked through the holes in the center of the rivets. silicone fixed it!!

i love my cpi stingers! cant wait to run the cpi pipe this year!
 
I just took IQR Race twin stingers that where 2-1/2" and re-made them into 3-1/2" stingers, double baffles and packed pretty good. It defintely quieted them down a bunch. They were loud AS F##K. Now at least they don't echo 80miles.
 
Z Man -- Dyno Port Info

So do you have the Dyno Port Pipe with the Standard Can or the Big Core Barker ?


Mapping for the Dyno Port ? Standard - Big Barker ?

I live in Boise so I have both Carls and High Mark close.

High Mark basically built the motor for my sled.
 
Dynoport big core barker

Y pipe, pipe and silencer no longer for sale.. Keeping it and adding a pc 5 to tune it all in.. Dynoport pipe makes more hp.. Slp's hp is all in the map they sell.. Their pipe adds very little. Big core barker for sale $100. Send pm if interested. Scott
 
Got em apart

I have the Stinger Cans apart, took a skinny wheel on the grinder cut the welds.

They are M --- T, no stuffing at all.

Will proceed with the repack job.

Wish I had a BD Meter ----
 
CPI Stinger - Got Er Stuffed

Went to Carls bought the Can Stuffing, followed the post directions.

I actually used a paper towel Tube, not metal tubing.

Painted it with Bright BBQ Black Paint.

Mig tacked.

Sounds great, can't wait to ride the Monster again.


Thanks for the Help!!
 
Went to Carls bought the Can Stuffing, followed the post directions.

I actually used a paper towel Tube, not metal tubing.

Painted it with Bright BBQ Black Paint.

Mig tacked.

Sounds great, can't wait to ride the Monster again.


Thanks for the Help!!

awesome glad it helped ya out! i never thought of the paper towel tube!

i try to pack mine as full as possible. its pretty crazy how that fire retardent fiberglass gets hot and breaks down so quickly!
 
for u guys thats tryed diffrent setups, what is the best pipe/can combow thatll give sweet sound n good power through all low,mid,n top end throttle..
i got the slp full set with flash n its comen out i litterly lost mid n top end it was like draging a dead duck behind
 
for u guys thats tryed diffrent setups, what is the best pipe/can combow thatll give sweet sound n good power through all low,mid,n top end throttle..
i got the slp full set with flash n its comen out i litterly lost mid n top end it was like draging a dead duck behind


SLP pipes set doesn't make power, all the gains are from the SLP flash. From what I have read here think the CPI made the best. I may be wrong been a while since I seen the old threads. Dynoport also makes good power, that is what I have, found a used one for a great price. Dynoport makes the power all along the power range also. Do a search on here as there is some threads about this and think it was here that had dyno results also.
 
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