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camping generators question

Hi all

What size of a generator does a guy need for his camping trailer to be able to still run the air conditioning? I can't sleep at night if it is too hot and humid so I need to be able to run the a/c at night. I have been told anything over 3000 watts is good.

Also, any recommendations on model brands. I would guess Honda would be good, but probably expensive.


Anvil
 
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Depending on how old your camper is, I would say 3000 would be good. Pretty sure the AC on my 82 is 1200 watt. You won't be able to run everything at the same time your AC is on, but atleast you'll be able to run it!
 
I think it takes 2800 to run the AC in a camp trailer (in our 2004 Nash it does). We have a Honda 2000, and it'll run everything but the AC. We could get another and piggy back them together, or we could have bought a 3000 for the same amount of money. We opted to go the smaller one (2000), then if we need more, we'll just add another 2000 so we have the extra power.

Honda is an excellent generator. They are spendy (as are Yamaha), but the noise reduction is very nice. We also have a 4000 Watt Buffalo Tools generator (which was 1/3rd the cost of the Honda), but that thing is annoyingly loud. Enough to drive you nuts, let alone anyone camping near you. Also, a lot of campgrounds are now are putting time restrictions on when you can run them, and that's mostly because of the noisier generators and folks not wanting to put up with that noise.
 
Get a minimum of 3000 watts you can also get hard start kits for the a/c units That take a big load off your genny. I have a Honda 3000 but if i had it to do over i would buy two of the 2000's and the parallel kit. The 3000 is tuff to lug around by yourself. Dont overlook the Yamaha generators as there are just as good as the Honda and a little cheaper :beer;
 
We are working on a hydrogen based generator. No noise, and wattage is plenty to run an AC unit.. (In Development) Of course you could move to a higher elevation.....
 
Yamaha makes a 2400 it is quite, and they will be coming out with 2000 this year which can be piggy backed. Do not get a noisy one...nobody likes to listen to this stuff running when your out camping. Yamaha 2400i (54-58) 2000i (51-61) and the honda 2000i (53-59). I own the honda and it can be piggy backed as well.
 
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What your camper demands for a generator depends on what is all being run. The Ac is a huge resistive load to be kicking on.
To figure what is needed for generator size you will need to know about passive and resistive loads that are demanded in your entire camper.
Passive load example would be like a light or electric heater. The wattage noted on these types of loads are what the generator must be capable of running... 75 watt light and 1500 watt electric heater of coarse takes 1575 generator wattage.
Resistive loads are like an Air conditioner or a drill etc... They demand wattage 3 times what the wattage rating of the appliance, normally noted on a tag, to start the resistive load. It will only take the appliance the wattage rating to operate after the resistive start up is used, to run. If a drill has a rating of 50 watts, It demands 150 watts to get it started.
If everything in a camper is turned off and just the AC is kicked on, a lower wattage generator can be used like around 2600 minimum for most ac to start up, then once running, the other 2/3rds of the wattage can be used. Look at the wattage rating on the AC motor and multiply by 3 to figure its start up rating. Add up everything in the camper that will be run depending passive or resistive load and figure generator demand from there

The types of generators is crucial also, especially if you will be using a laptop or computer while in the camper. Voltage spikes come into play. I would not go with a genorator that is not at least a cyclo converter style or a generator that is an inverter as Catwoman has within her Honda. Inverters give the closest to smooth electric pulse that home electricity flow has.
Stay away from any AVR style generators for a camper. AVR generators have high voltage spikes and are good generators for running tools on a construction site or like a well pump on a farm cow water tough where voltage spikes are not really going to hurt anything. Not suited for a camper

Also while shopping for a generator, pay attention to the DB rating of the exhaust as well as it's rubber mounting capability. Noise and shakes... 2 thing that make generators annoying in a camper


----- Gimpster -----
 
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^^ you mean inductive/capacitive loads... motors, fluoro lights, etc. Voltage and current are out of phase.

Resistive load the voltage and current are in phase.

That's why AC loads are applied to R/L devices to test their value, DC won't generate a phase shift over time.
 
^^ you mean inductive/capacitive loads... motors, fluoro lights, etc. Voltage and current are out of phase.

Resistive load the voltage and current are in phase.

That's why AC loads are applied to R/L devices to test their value, DC won't generate a phase shift over time.

That'll fill in the blanks I left open

----- Gimpster -----
 
For what it's worth........

We had a 5 hour outage here 2 nights ago.
I have a Norhtern Tool 8000 (surge) 6500 (continuous) with a 13 hp Honda engine.

It was running......
Dish sattellite
TV
Computor
26 watt light
sump pump

I never did the math on what each took, but when the sump pump kicked on,
the TV would power off.
Once I shut off the computor, the TV volume would go way low when the sump pump would kick on.

I'm wondering if I'm getting the rated output of my generator?
If I am, that sump pump is a quite a large draw.
 
Go to your local Schucks and pick up a Champion 4000w for $299.00. It will run your ac unit with the microwave running and the stereo blasting. I've been using one for 6 years now, it works awsome.
 
In our camper, our little Honda EU2000 will run the AC+most stuff in the camper. Guy tried selling us a 3000, but we like how compact the 2000 was.

Oh, the Honda is worth it! SUPER quiet, sips fuel, and the variable throttle sensors in them are very cool. Also, never had it NOT start!
 
In our camper, our little Honda EU2000 will run the AC+most stuff in the camper. Guy tried selling us a 3000, but we like how compact the 2000 was.

Oh, the Honda is worth it! SUPER quiet, sips fuel, and the variable throttle sensors in them are very cool. Also, never had it NOT start!

Honda 2000 suitcase good to go in our 29 foot Tioga :beer;
 
Hi all

What size of a generator does a guy need for his camping trailer to be able to still run the air conditioning? I can't sleep at night if it is too hot and humid so I need to be able to run the a/c at night. I have been told anything over 3000 watts is good.

Also, any recommendations on model brands. I would guess Honda would be good, but probably expensive.


Anvil

And I can't sleep listening to someones generator running all night. If you are going to run one all night, get a honda. They are by far the quietest. Even those tend to get turned off at night around the race tracks here. Not always by the owner.
 
For what it's worth........


.........It was running......
Dish sattellite
TV
Computor
26 watt light
sump pump

I never did the math on what each took, but when the sump pump kicked on,
the TV would power off.
Once I shut off the computor, the TV volume would go way low when the sump pump would kick on.

I'm wondering if I'm getting the rated output of my generator?
If I am, that sump pump is a quite a large draw.

Maf, your generator has plenty of capacity for what you were running. The starting current for electric motors, especially ones starting under load, like your sump pump, is very high for that first second or two when the motor comes up to speed.

When the motor starts, the voltage drop across the building wiring, and the generator itself drops very low for that first instant the motor starts.
Basically the motor "appears" to be almost a short circuit, during that first momemt of motor starting. Ohms Law says that the voltage drop across a "short" (low, or zero Ohms) is very low, or theoretical zero volts

Your generator has enough capacity to supply current to the motor under those start-up conditions, or the motor would not have started at all.

Now, about the TV and computer.
Most have a "soft-start" method, which means you can click a remote control to turn on, or when pressing the "start" button on a desk top computer, just tells electronic solid state switch circuit to "power-up." No mechanical switch contacts involved.

Along comes a instantaneous voltage drop from the pump starting and the electronic devices "see" a low, or zero, volts for that instant, and interpret that as a shut-down command.
Variation on that is if there were a over-voltage "spike" (transient voltage) just after the motor starts, the electronic devices may go into a self protection mode and shut down as well.

So-ooooo, what to do?
You could plug in a "UPS" un-interruptable power supply, between the wall outlet and your TV and computer. These are readily available at computer stores, or home centers perhaps, and don't have to cost too much.

Or another approach to clean up voltage surges would be a "constant voltage isolation transformer, that the TV and computer would plug into.

(Examples of UPS) http://www.upsforless.com/?gclid=CIjettXYiZoCFQVinAodCyp0Pw

(Example CVT) http://www.recycledgoods.com/item/24998.aspx

Anyhoo, what you are experiencing is "normal" given the conditions.
I digress, LOL. :p
 
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I run a Yamaha 2400. It starts and runs our 13.5k BTU AC just fine on our camper. Two of these can also be run together. I picked mine up for 1100 last year, my brother in law got one from the Sidney NE Cabelas bargain cave for 550 a few weeks ago - warranty card had not been turned in yet, so he has full Yamaha warranty on it. Screamin deal.....

tk
 
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