C3 belt drive

[Ropin_tom]

So i bought a used C3 belt drive. Everything seems good with the unit. I installed it last night, doing a 3" x3 and drivers at the same time. Went riding today and was checking the belt often as per the instructions to accuretly set the belt tension. After about the 4th stop the belt had moved way off center and was rubbing against the brake rotor. After loosing the tensioner and moving the belt back to the center of the shieves at least 7/8 times with the same result that the belt would run back to the brake rotor. Finally I loosened off the bolt that snugs down the tensioner and was able to make it ****-eyed enough that the belt ran against the idler tensioner shoulder. lost the day of riding and probably close to 1/2 the belt width. Neither shieve driven or driver have a shoulder to run against, I did spend a fair bit of time making sure the shieves lined up perfectly, upon install.

Any ideas?

So my question is: anybody experience this before?

 

[LoudHandle]

So i bought a used C3 belt drive. Everything seems good with the unit. I installed it last night, doing a 3" x3 and drivers at the same time. Went riding today and was checking the belt often as per the instructions to accuretly set the belt tension. After about the 4th stop the belt had moved way off center and was rubbing against the brake rotor. After loosing the tensioner and moving the belt back to the center of the shieves at least 7/8 times with the same result that the belt would run back to the brake rotor. Finally I loosened off the bolt that snugs down the tensioner and was able to make it ****-eyed enough that the belt ran against the idler tensioner shoulder. lost the day of riding and probably close to 1/2 the belt width. Neither shieve driven or driver have a shoulder to run against, I did spend a fair bit of time making sure the shieves lined up perfectly, upon install.

Any ideas?

So my question is: anybody experience this before?

While I have not personally seen this, I do blueprint and verify the below things when I install the tensioner. As well as verify the condition of the shafts, bearings, alignment, fit, etc.

What you are experiencing; is due to the inherent molding tolerances of the stock castings. To get it to be true and perfect on some sleds you will need to shim the tensioner so that it is perpendicular in both planes (so that the tensioner axle is parallel to both the jack shaft and the driveshaft). Any angularity will cause the belt to run to one side or the other.

 

[Ropin_tom]

It does appear that the tensioner being the only "movable part" seems the likely culprit. As well as shimming the tensioner to help track the belt properly I turned an aluminum plate to be attached to the back side of the driven sprocket so to help it from running into the brake rotor, should the belt like to wander toward the rotor the is now a mechanical means or shoulder to stop it. Ill have to go grab a couple belts and a shim pack and do some testing.

 

[Hawkster]

The belts are no different than a chain , when your on the throttle they will naturally navigate in the direction of rotation and towards the torque and go the opposite direction when letting off of the throttle . Not so much when new but when they get a fair amount of time they loose some of their strength even though it is not visible . Run it without the panel to see if it at least wonders .

 

[TKILLC]

Are there any flanges on the top gear? That would help keep the belt in alignment along with the flanges on the idlers.

 

[Drifter]

Are there any flanges on the top gear? That would help keep the belt in alignment along with the flanges on the idlers.

Both the pulley and the top sprocket have flanges the bottom gear does not. Had to shim my C3 set up to get it to run right. Chalking it up to an un-square Polaris.

 

[Ropin_tom]

yes i realize that the belt will want to move to the side of least resistance, the thing i dont understand is the tensioning idler has a flange on one side neither the driver or driven have flanges or shoulders machined into them like stock ones. I am grabbing a new belt tomarrow and will try shimming the tensioner see what happens

 

[LoudHandle]

All my tensioners have flanges on both sides, is your really a single flange? Unusual if it is.

 

[TKILLC]

I would try to get some flanges on the top gear. That will help tremendously.

The reason Polaris does one flange on each gear is because gears are offset. This makes the belt run against the flanges which creates heat and also tweaks the belt.

If you are in need of flanges I have some.

 

[Drifter]

yes i realize that the belt will want to move to the side of least resistance, the thing i dont understand is the tensioning idler has a flange on one side neither the driver or driven have flanges or shoulders machined into them like stock ones. I am grabbing a new belt tomarrow and will try shimming the tensioner see what happens

Can you post up a pic of your set up? My C3 has flanges on both sides Of the tensioner pulley. The top sprocket has flanges on both sides as well. Have you tried calling C3 in Sicamouse??

 

[Ropin_tom]

yes my tensioner only has a shoulder on one side and neither of my driver or driven have shoulders. I called c3 today and he thought that it might have something to do with the fact that i had taken my drivers out to put the 7tooth on and might not have maintained an accurate center to center distance. i checked that tonight and its very close to being the same side to side. He also said that the newer top gears as of 4 months ago come flanged both sides so that would be a guaranteed fix. think i might have to just bite the bullet and order the newer style i geuss. what are you guys running for ratios with your setups?

 

[Ropin_tom]

Was able to meet up with a gentlemen from C3 today as he was going through town on his way to vancouver. New upgraded double flanged to driver now on the sled should be a real help. Great customer service thanks for the help off to try it again monday.