I'm cheap so I don't like to spend much on my vehicles...but with 3 kids its hard to find a decent priced SUV without a boat load of miles. I Have came accross a few nice Yukon Denali's in my price point and the one i have my eye on is a 05 but it has 190k miles. The owner states they are 95% high way miles and it drives nice and is really clean, the seats are in better shape than some with 90k or less miles have that I've test drove. This is the 6.0 motor with the AWD platform and i see them for sale all over the place w 250k + miles. Just wondering if anyone has some tips of what to look for when buying a high mileage truck like this. The tranny is my #1 concern as far has big $ parts that could take a dump in the near future, but she did shift nice and owner states he never pulled a trailer with it and is the original owner. I can not find a drop of oil underneath, without knowing the mileage i would have said there is no way it had over 100k. Would you guys buy a truck with that many miles? This one in particular is priced at $6500 obo.
Buying a high milage suv
- Thread starter zach477
- Start date
well, I think you have a better shot at a newer truck with lots of miles than an older truck with less miles. I think the older it gets the more parts it will need. In my opinion you can either pay upfront for a nice truck that wont have any problems for a long time, or buy an older one that is cheaper and end up having to shell out some money for parts when they break. Either way you'll pay about the same in the long run
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locknload
Active member
Most mechanic shops offer a pre- buy inspection for costomers who are considering a purchase. Our shop charges 1 hour and for that we do a complete inspection including test drive for 4 wheel drive and transmission operation. We check state of tune, brakes, fluids, leaks, suspension, belts, hoses, A/C, lighting, etc.... and if they have been in the business for awhile they should be able to give you a reasonable opinion on the longevity of the vehicle. I highly recommend this if you know of a reputable shop.
Stay away from AWD systems and high mileage. It will cost you and cost you dearly. And you can get the same year, way lower mileage with a non-denali package and that is easily a win-win. And the 6.0 is not that much better than the 5.3 if you look at the stats.
What makes you say that? Just curious....I had an 07 denali with 180k when i was broad sided in an intersection and it felt as solid as it did when i bought it with 110k. Would it have lasted to 300k? I dont know. When looking at the mechanics, to me it makes sense that an AWD platform would outlast a conventional 4x4 system. You are distributing a load over 4 wheels not 2 (less stress on the components), and the only additional things that are spinning are components that are designed to spin, even a conventional 4x4 system has to have rotating parts. I would agree that you can expect to have to replace maybe some front drivetrain parts more often than a conventional 4x4 system but thats a price I'm willing to pay.
The main reasons I'm eyeing a denali package is the 6.0 on average gets better mileage than the 5.3, the age and mileage I'm looking at you dont see more than a few $100 in price difference, awd is great for winter in town driving, the denalis look cooler, and all denali's have quads. Finding a sub/tahoe/yukon in my price point thats not beat to hell with quads is a tall order.
The most expensive thing on a vehicle to replace after electronics is the drivetrain. Been there done that and never worth it. They just never seem to mate up well after a rebuild. AWD systems undergo a lot more stress and wear on tires and drive components than the 2wd selectable models. The rear axles on these boats are tough as nails but the stuff up front tends to be more fragile as it get manipulated with the steering wheel. When in 2wd none of those parts are under stress.
Audi has one of the best systems in the world for pavement use and I wouldn't touch one of those things with a ten foot pole past 150-175k. It is usually the first thing that goes. Same issue with Jeeps with AWD. All models tahoe/yukon of the upper scale variety you refer to with the 5.3 engine will have the ability to be AWD. So, kind of a win-win for the winter reference.
The 6.0 when driven exactly the same as the 5.3 has from my experience returned ~3-4mpg less. I guess if driven easy they might be more similar, but push them a bit and the 6.0 starts to suck the gas hard core. Add AWD and down goes the mpg rating as well.
I agree, the Denali packages do add a nice set of outside looks, but you pay for that. It does add a significant price in resale.
But in the end you have to love what you drive, and drive what you love. To me driving is part of my day, thus part of my life. I want that part to be pleasant at the very least
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locknload
Active member
Like I said take it and have it inspected, if its an awd test drive it turning sharp circles in a parking lot, if is bucks like a regular 4-wheel drive locked in then the viscous coupler in the transfer case is bad, it should turn smooth (no bucking). I have replaced as many awd transfer cases as the shiftable ones. As far as drive train wear (differentials) its about the same either way. Its all about maintenance with these vehicles, if the fluids have been change regularly typically you will see them live alot longer. And by the way, there is alot more electronics involved with the shiftable transfer case then the AWD, my wife drives an AWD and I wouldnt have it any other way and Im a Master mechanic. Good Luck!
Actually the 6.0 is that much better. It will last longer. 6.0 has an iron block, the 5.3 is aluminum (2x4 is iron in the 5.3).
My complaint with that Denali is the suspension. They generally always have problems and are very expensive to replace/repair.
I would certainly get everything checked out. Many places will do this for free, but if you already have a mechanic take it to him for the $90 or so of labor.
Carfax carfax, carfax. (or a competitor)
Also, what is your budget? Fixed amount or payment (don't shop on payment alone, but nothing wrong with acknowledging that payment is what matters for month to month finances).
What do you need out of a vehicle? Towing? how much?
How many kids/family members do you have?
I bought a 1999 GMC Suburban (5.7) with 160k for $2000 cash. It was a little dirty on the inside, but leather, heated seats, good 4x4. I have put the following into it.
-Radiator (small leak that you could have easily dealt with, I wanted it done right, easy fix) ($180)
-New plugs, wires and distributor (misfires, finally figured out) ($220)
-Fuel filter ($8)
-Oil change ($50)
-New Air filter ($35)
-Transmission fluid was just changed or I would have done that
-obviously I flushed the coolant with the radiator change.
I plan on changing the shocks next. Might have to do some front end suspension but Shocks and front end can be completely done for $400. So i am in this $900 in parts, and $2000 purchase. $3k for a rig that runs great and I can take to 250k easily. Granted I don't use it daily. It is a weekend warrior for me. So fuel economy wasn't a big deal.
What do you need out of a vehicle? Towing? how much?
How many kids/family members do you have?
I bought a 1999 GMC Suburban (5.7) with 160k for $2000 cash. It was a little dirty on the inside, but leather, heated seats, good 4x4. I have put the following into it.
-Radiator (small leak that you could have easily dealt with, I wanted it done right, easy fix) ($180)
-New plugs, wires and distributor (misfires, finally figured out) ($220)
-Fuel filter ($8)
-Oil change ($50)
-New Air filter ($35)
-Transmission fluid was just changed or I would have done that
-obviously I flushed the coolant with the radiator change.
I plan on changing the shocks next. Might have to do some front end suspension but Shocks and front end can be completely done for $400. So i am in this $900 in parts, and $2000 purchase. $3k for a rig that runs great and I can take to 250k easily. Granted I don't use it daily. It is a weekend warrior for me. So fuel economy wasn't a big deal.
That is solid advice.
I've seen tons of high mileage GM, and fords.
Easy to produce a long lasting vehicle when they are all light duty. Toyota's beds are practically Falling off from the factory on full size vehicles.
Average lifespan of a vehicle is 150,000 now. So If a vehicle is taken care of. No reason you can't get 200k-250k
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My 1994 F-350 just rolled 200,000 miles and still runs like a champ
.... and still guzzles the gas like it's going out of style
actually..we see tons of the auto trac t-cases and the manual shift gm cases needing work here, very rarely do we see any all wheel gms come thru needing work, (thats professional opinion from some one who overhauls diffs and t-cases everyday for a living.....with that said..I run a 2011 seirra denali with AWD..tires wear far better then either of my auto traced suburbans ever did, drives smoother, fuel economy has been better(course, thats a 6.2 motor vrs a 6.0 and a 8.1). biggest secret to making any of these new trucks live is do your maintanence, change the diffs and t-case fliuds every 30000 miles, check your tire diameters(measure from the ground to the rims edge at the top of the tire, adjust air pressure till all are within 1/8" height wise..and you will have a happy drivetrain)if the rig looks clean, well maintained, I wouldnt hesitate to buy it...
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/3161021987.html
Here's one in Seattle w/ low miles plus it has teh bulletproof old 350 in it.
Long ways away but ???
Here's one in Seattle w/ low miles plus it has teh bulletproof old 350 in it.
Long ways away but ???
Ending up going with one that was listed at a repo shop (someone made mention above about it as well). Paid $5600 cash and took it to the GM dealer as asked what he would give me trade as is and he told me $8k so I'll consider it a good deal. Wasnt looking at getting a loan, i have bought all my vehicles with cash the last few years. I have ran the numbers over and over and unless your sticking $2-3k a year into it, its cheaper to drive something thats paid for that might need some maint than to have a $400-800 monthly payment. It has 132k miles and runs nice, i stuck about $600 into it and flushed all my fluids, put a new filter in the trans and had to replace a few small parts. Just took her to the cities and back this weekend and didnt hicup once.
Congrats. That should treat you nicely.
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