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busted trailing arm bolt

anyone else bust one of these off before? man i'm pissed!!! i had everything but the motor out of my sled to fix a coolant leak. got it all fixed up had it on the garage floor to "burp" the coolant as i filed her back up. then desided to go ahead and pull the sway bar. bolt on the left side seemed to be a bit snug. went on and turned it anyway and SNAP! damn....

looks like i hit a rock on that bolt and the washer around it is banged up so i'm hoping it just got tweaked behind the head of the bolt so i can tap it out easily. the actual peg that comes out of the sled for the trailing arm to slide onto is a bit bent as well. should i go as far as trying to straighten that as well?

now just waiting for a buddies tap and die set to borrow. man i hope i can get her out with ease and not have to die it for a new bolt.

suggestions on straitening that peg at all?

hpim4787.jpg
 
BFH to move that peg forward, lube that broken bolt up with some penetrating oil and apply some heat to it when you are ready to remove it.
 
if it doesn't work, slip a nut over the top of what is left of the bolt, one that fits snug, and weld the nut to the bolt from inside the nut, have a wrench handy that fits the nut and twist the nut/bolt out as soon as you can drop the welder! Works AWESOME for getting broken head bolts out of blocks!:D
 
if that doesnt work...

If the welder/nut doesnt' work, Try drilling it out with a left handed drill bit. If you get to the easy out stage be careful! Breaking off a hardened steel remover can ruin your whole day.. Try to stick with the heat and or penatrating oil.. OH and remember the penetrating oil is flammable...
 
the welding idea is "the" best for that broken bolt... careful that you don't scar the peg too bad or collapse the end in on itself with the bfh:( -while you're lookin at it might want to check how bent or cracked the running board/tunnel brace etc are...might have to fix or replace the whole (or part of) the assembly ;)
 
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