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Burandt board users, I have a ?

jdw1

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Piced up new Burandt running boards todsy at dealer along with other new parts.

Has anyone striped the black (or white) paint off of there new boards before or after installation?

I'm not crazy about the colored boards so I was thinking about striping them to natural aluminum, any thoughts are welcome!

Thanks!
 
Piced up new Burandt running boards todsy at dealer along with other new parts.

Has anyone striped the black (or white) paint off of there new boards before or after installation?

I'm not crazy about the colored boards so I was thinking about striping them to natural aluminum, any thoughts are welcome!

Thanks!

They are coated for a reason, and that is to help keep snow from sticking. Strip off the color and you might as well buy the standard boards and not the Burandt boards.
 
They are coated for a reason, and that is to help keep snow from sticking. Strip off the color and you might as well buy the standard boards and not the Burandt boards.

Or traded them for some ones standards! Im sure some one would be more than happy to
 
I'll trade you take offs from my '13 Pro for yours. I want to powder coat mine but they are glued so I'm I'm kinda stuck on what to do to them. Nothing wrong with them though.
 
....

The pic above were done with glue in


These 13's were put on my 2012 last week

Jdw1. You could blast them then clear anodize them.
 
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How is it you guys claim you " Powdercoat the boards still attached to the sled?
I am no expert on PC'ing but that seems unrealistic to how I have seen the process handled at our local shop.
 
How is it you guys claim you " Powdercoat the boards still attached to the sled?
I am no expert on PC'ing but that seems unrealistic to how I have seen the process handled at our local shop.

Uhmm, my memory say they are not glued to the tunnel, only the brace from board to tunnel that are glued to the board.

Sent from my LT25i using Tapatalk 2
 
Heat them up.

Propane torch and a pull with the rivets drilled will have them off.
If they are glued on
 
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little clarification

All it takes to get the boards off is a handful of rivets and couple bolts, nothing but wrenches and drill needed. I have never heard of anyone powdercoating them on the tunnel unless u have the tunnel stripped down and off the bulk head. I guess u could if you wanted to do the tunnel and boards all together. The glue people are scared of is glue holding the rear support to the boards( runs from the boards at a angle up to the tunnel) I was kinda scared to PC mine but I did with the support attached to them. The glue still looked the same when it came out of the oven. This was on 13 stock boards, I am not sure the glue is the same for 14, but my guess is that it is
 
The "glue" that holds the front and rear bracket-inserts will not suffer from powdercoating temps.. It will actually strengthen it as it is held in place (AKA fixtured) by the one rivet on them.



Powder Coating after Bonding with LORD® 400 Series
Acrylic Adhesives


The LORD® 400 series acrylic adhesives have excellent heat resistance characteristics up to 400°F (204°C), reducing the concern of possible degradation of the cured adhesive due to heat during the powder coating process. (There is data for heat resistance at 400°F [204°C] up to 1000 hours.)

However, it is important to keep in mind that at these higher temperatures, the hot tear strength is very low. The lower strength values make it essential that the assembly is properly fixtured or placed to avoid slippage of the bonded pieces, especially if they are heavy in nature. Spot welds are frequently used in the industry to hold the assembly in place.

The integrity of the bond will remain unchanged, and in fact increase, once the assemblies have returned to room temperature.

A frequently asked question is “Why does the adhesive look orange/tan in color after exposure to heat instead of the light green we are accustomed to seeing after normal room temperature cure?” This color change can typically occur because of the higher temperatures seen during typical painting and E-coat processes.

The integrity of the bond after either one of these processes should remain unchanged, and in fact increase, once the assemblies have returned back to room temperature.
 
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