Building a 9

[polarispunk09]

I have just recently purchased a 2005 polaris 900 (121) and have spent countless hours reading forums and seeing what others have done to create a good powerful running sled.. I live in southern Wisconsin and have been wrenching on and riding sleds for as long as i can remember, my brother is even a mechanic at a local shop.. However the 900 is uncharted area for me.. I guess what i am getting at is its time to mod and i could use a helpful hand and some insight on a few things..
1) Wanted to start off making sure the motor is strapped down.. i have read alot about COMPFUSION's mounts and also Slp has a few torque arms..
2) Changing the airbox, i feel i have narrowed it down between the fire n ice and the Slp nose airbox..
3) Pipe and Can.. Alot of options Slp and dynoport are at the top of the list.. Also wondering if the slp head would work with the dynoport pipe..
4) And the clutching, is there a good kit out there or would i be better off just trying to clutch it by myself?
Like i said i am just looking for some knowledge from guys who have been there and done that.. Anything will help..
Thanks Don

 

[guidoxpress]

..

I have just recently purchased a 2005 polaris 900 (121) and have spent countless hours reading forums and seeing what others have done to create a good powerful running sled.. I live in southern Wisconsin and have been wrenching on and riding sleds for as long as i can remember, my brother is even a mechanic at a local shop.. However the 900 is uncharted area for me.. I guess what i am getting at is its time to mod and i could use a helpful hand and some insight on a few things..
1) Wanted to start off making sure the motor is strapped down.. i have read alot about COMPFUSION's mounts and also Slp has a few torque arms..
2) Changing the airbox, i feel i have narrowed it down between the fire n ice and the Slp nose airbox..
3) Pipe and Can.. Alot of options Slp and dynoport are at the top of the list.. Also wondering if the slp head would work with the dynoport pipe..
4) And the clutching, is there a good kit out there or would i be better off just trying to clutch it by myself?
Like i said i am just looking for some knowledge from guys who have been there and done that.. Anything will help..
Thanks Don

1. for sure get compfusion mounts..you can also get the SLP push arm/torque arm, but most cases only need the front mounts..but i run both
2. FNI only IMO...the SLP one is not designed well, and "can" bog in deep pow, and will not allow for an aftermarket front bumper, which is also a mist on them..
3. SLP is a GREAT pipe, no idea about dyno port..but MBRP/Sno-stuff/Skinz/CPI makes a great cans that sounds sick..
--the SLP head will work with the dynport pipe..just dont miz the dyno port y-pipe with SLP pipe..since the SLP requires reflash for its system
4. primary, use SLPs tuning chart on their website..if you have an aftermarket exhaust setup...very good basics to start with
--use ONLY the 3211115 belt, balanced priamry, shimmed for 115 belt, and proper belty deflection as well..ALL MOST IMP YOU CAN DO..

secondary setup, go with the stuff in my sig..(66.44.46 helix, derlin washers, red/pink or black/white spring) AND FLOAT YOUR SECONDARY..

hope it helps, let me know if you need anything else.

 

[guidoxpress]

and VENT THE HELL OUT OF THE SLED....if they make a vent for it..buy it...

 

[polarispunk09]

wow.. thanks for the quick response.. very much appreciated.. another question i have is about the cooling system, i cant get rid of the rad due to lack of snow around here sometimes and also i do alot of lake riding but is it a good idea to turn the par. circuit into the series and run the coolant all the way threw the sled?

 

[nmmiles]

I was in the same situation last year. Worried about not having enough snow to get rid of my radiator. When I had it on I would see 166F on the trails/lakes. Took it out and I'm never over 135F no matter what kind of riding im doing. Not bad considering the thermostat doesn't open til 126F. Get rid of the radiator and get a nice set of scratchers. Definitely will run cooler. Guaranteed

Get the F'nI intake. For the price/time of snowmobile mods you might as well get the best.

Other than that pretty much everything Sean said ^ is perfect!

-Nolan

 

[SnoDmon]

Have you been on the 900 forum? It is a separate forum away from SnoWest. Do not do the secondary clutching that Guido said. This is a mountain setup for the clutching and it sounds like you want to go fast. Also I would say get rid of the radiator and get ice scratchers. It WILL run cooler without the radiator, guaranteed. Just get a 3 hose clamps, a splice and a plug for the hose coming out of the coolant bottle. There are great instructions on here for this. Personally I would stay away from SLP on a 900. Too many horror stories when the sleds were fresh on the market. The ONLY SLP parts you will only find 2 vents and an LED brake light on my sled. Does it have an SLP head on it? That will work with any pipe/can combo, but I would go with the RK Tek "sleeper" head unless you want the billet bling. Pipe wise, you probably can't find an HTG pipe and y-pipe combo anymore but if you can, BUY IT before someone else does. 4 more HP than any other pipe manufacture! I would do the dynoport or see if CPI makes one. I would also do the Sno-Stuff can if you like LOUD. It is smaller than most. Otherwise get a hold of Speedemon and see what can he runs, but it is smaller and possibly louder, interesting design tho with single inlet, two small cans and possibly 2 outlets, maybe one. As for the intake, I'm guessing you aren't in the powder much, if this is the case, I would go with the SLP intake because I believe it is capable of drawing in more air when not restricted by powder. And when it comes to venting, some people get ridiculous, mainly just get the rear side panel vents. This is all I did and it resolved all of my clutching/belt eating problems. I would also run an EFI controller with any pipe. There are a lot of options here. I chose Attitude Industries because advanced tuners can manipulate the timing to advance it 1.5 degrees. You can do this by pulling fuel across the entire power band and then adding it back on the individual settings (idle, "mixture"/needle, and main jet). If Dynojet would make the Power Commander for a 900 I would recommend it to try out.