Broken lower left hand bulkhead brace

[spencer]

Last winter I took a hit to my upper left A arm, so I replaced all of them with Alternative impact A arms no big deal great product.

Here I am doing my yearly maintenance pop the primary clutch and lone behold the lower bulkhead brace is cracked. I was wondering if any one could tell me the best way to replace this part. A few questions.

1. Do you need to pull the engine, thinking I could remove the motor mounts and lift the engine up a bit.
2. What parts need to be removed.
3. How long will it take to replace the part.
4. Should I replace all motor mounts.
5. What is the best method for getting the lords adhesive to release, thinking of using Acetylene torch with a small tip.

Thanks !

Spencer

 

[Murph]

Take a photo and post it up. Just want to confirm it's a crack versus casting mark.

Lords adhesive I've always just used an electric heat gun-- heat until it starts to sizzle and then pry apart.

 

[spencer]

Having / had a hard time pulling the pic down here at home, cracked it is for sure. Cannot believe it broke as easy as it did. I rode the sled three more times after I changed out the A arms, did not know the difference.

Thanks !

 

[jrscirocco]

Having / had a hard time pulling the pic down here at home, cracked it is for sure. Cannot believe it broke as easy as it did. I rode the sled three more times after I changed out the A arms, did not know the difference.

Thanks !

Spencer,

I had the same/similar issue on my '13 pro clutch side last season after hitting a small tree stump and rode for another 400 miles and didn't notice. Seems as though the structure in that area must be pretty redundant.

I had the dealer fix it so I cannot answer specifics other than I know he pulled the motor and he did not advise changing the mounts.

MountainHorse has done some good write ups on the Lord's adhesive on here. Search it an you'll find everything you may want or need to know.

Get it fixed soon, snow is on the way!!!!

Jrscirocco

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[idahosledder]

I did the same thing, rode 3-4 times on mine before I realized the brace on the right side was broke.

I thought about using a heat gun but opted for my little propane torch instead. Just keep it moving and it's easy peasy.
I was actually impressed at how consistent it was when it released...heat it up, pry a little, nothing, heat more, pry a little, nothing, heat some more, then boom, it simply fell off.
It's not as scary as it first seems, just use your head.

 

[spencer]

I did the same thing, rode 3-4 times on mine before I realized the brace on the right side was broke.

I thought about using a heat gun but opted for my little propane torch instead. Just keep it moving and it's easy peasy.
I was actually impressed at how consistent it was when it released...heat it up, pry a little, nothing, heat more, pry a little, nothing, heat some more, then boom, it simply fell off.
It's not as scary as it first seems, just use your head.

Heat gun worked fine, the only issue I had was the one torque screw I did not see. I was able to lift the engine Up to access under side. My sequence for removal.

1. Remove clutches.
2. Remove lower plastic guards, you need to drill out the rivets.
3. Remove oil tank & bracket.
4. Remove pipe & can.
5. Remove Torque screw from Solenoid valves so it can float with the engine when you lift it.
6. Disconnect all wires to the engine.
7. Remove air intake system.
8. Unbolt motor mounts & raise the motor as high as you can, make sure you remove the tie rod over the motor.
9. Heat up area that is epoxied on the brace.
10. Remove bolts, don't forget to remove the two rivets under neath where it fastens to the Brace and the mystery hidden Torque screw.
11. Begin to work the brace free with a few assortments of large blade screw drivers.
12. Clean off all the left over epoxy.


Re assembly should be easier than removal, I may have inadvertently left a few steps out due to my old memory so please forgive me.

Spencer.