Any ideas as to why a clutch puller would break? It's brand new... once we have the puller out what would be the best way to remove the clutch???
Broken Clutch Puller Summit 1000
- Thread starter summit1000bob
- Start date
broken puller
Mine did the same thing on my 07. If it is still in there and tight pour hot water from a kettle in the center of the clutch where the belt rides and it will pop right off mine did.
good luck
Mine did the same thing on my 07. If it is still in there and tight pour hot water from a kettle in the center of the clutch where the belt rides and it will pop right off mine did.
good luck
Hot water trick works great might have to do it a couple times but it will come off mine did just be careful!
Just broke my clutch puller inside the clutch a couple of weeks ago. After messing around with EZ outs, swearing and yelling, I put the belt back on, started it up, drove it about 3 feet and clutch popped off. Then it is easy to get the puller out.
Throw this one in the broken tool bin ...
A broken Doo clutch puller you say? I find that hard to believe ...
This occurred Saturday removing the primary off my '07 ... better than breaking off in the crankshaft stub I guess but W*T*F*???
A broken Doo clutch puller you say? I find that hard to believe ...
This occurred Saturday removing the primary off my '07 ... better than breaking off in the crankshaft stub I guess but W*T*F*???
Ok I tried the hot water idea it did not come off yet, the other idea about starting the sled and putting the belt on what happened when the clutch came off did any thing get damaged ie did it go flying across the garage? This is really starting to piss me off. Just put a new top end in was ready to go and now this. ****!!!!
The split clutch puller looks like you've been using a rattle gun on it and then hitting the end of it with a hammer; trying to get the clutch to pop off. NEVER USE A RATTLE GUN on a clutch puller. Your crankshaft is split (two pieces) and a rattle gun can twist your crank out of time. I've done it, not good.
When using a clutch puller,
#1 Grease the tip so it doesn't bind when in contact with the end of the crank and make sure all threads are clean
#2 If it just won't pop off and you've got it as tight as you can get it, use an aluminum drift and a steel hammer to tap on the exposed shaft of the fixed sheave, rotating the engine slightly everytime you hammer on the drift. Don't hit it too hard, as this can damage the pto crank bearing. You can also use heat on this surface, but nothing hotter than a propane torch.
#3 When getting ready to reinstall the clutch, clean the tapers on both clutch and crank really well, then take a piece of chalk (regular blackboard or sidewalk chalk) and rub it over the tapered surfaces. This will keep the metal to metal contact of the tapers from fretting. Machinists use this method all the time when using tapered shank tools in their mills and such. Your clutch will come off easier next time.
s-a
When using a clutch puller,
#1 Grease the tip so it doesn't bind when in contact with the end of the crank and make sure all threads are clean
#2 If it just won't pop off and you've got it as tight as you can get it, use an aluminum drift and a steel hammer to tap on the exposed shaft of the fixed sheave, rotating the engine slightly everytime you hammer on the drift. Don't hit it too hard, as this can damage the pto crank bearing. You can also use heat on this surface, but nothing hotter than a propane torch.
#3 When getting ready to reinstall the clutch, clean the tapers on both clutch and crank really well, then take a piece of chalk (regular blackboard or sidewalk chalk) and rub it over the tapered surfaces. This will keep the metal to metal contact of the tapers from fretting. Machinists use this method all the time when using tapered shank tools in their mills and such. Your clutch will come off easier next time.
s-a
Did you get the clutch puller out??? If you didn't you may have to weld it out. Depending on how far in the puller is you may be able to use a Arctech Unicrome rod and weld a nut to the end to remove the puller. If the puller is broken inside the clutch you can cut a piece of pipe the same diameter and stick it inside the clutch hole and put your welding rod into the pipe and weld the pipe to the end of the puller. Use vice grips or a pipe wrench to remove the puller. A few years ago my clutch bushing on my 07 went out on a trip to Stewart and we had to remove my clutch. We couldn't get my puller to remove the clutch. We left it overnight and even tried the hot water trick. Nothing worked. We removed the puller, greased the threads and the tip and the clutch came off like nothing. Always use grease or never seize on the threads and tip of your puller.
Looks can be deceiving ...
#1 Have NEVER used an impact wrench on a clutch puller ... that is a no-no.
#2 Always put anti-seize on the tip and threads of the puller before screwing it in ... trying to be kind to the infamous "eccentric PTO stub" and inner threads of the fixed sheave stub.
#3 Propane torch for just a sec does wonders for getting the taper seat to release. Or boiling water, but I'm less apt to get scalded with the torch
#4 Have never used the "chalk" method, although have seen that used many times on tapered shank tooling ... I always clean both surfaces well and apply a very light coat of high-temp anti-seize to the PTO stub ... usually works well.
#5 Most important fact ... the beating on the end of the puller was a result of trying to get the puller out of my 22mm socket ... when it split in the socket it was seized in the socket so bad that the 4 lb. sledge and drift punch had to come out to remove it! Needless to say, the socket has seen better days but Sears will be replacing it anyway, so whatever ...
#1 Have NEVER used an impact wrench on a clutch puller ... that is a no-no.
#2 Always put anti-seize on the tip and threads of the puller before screwing it in ... trying to be kind to the infamous "eccentric PTO stub" and inner threads of the fixed sheave stub.
#3 Propane torch for just a sec does wonders for getting the taper seat to release. Or boiling water, but I'm less apt to get scalded with the torch
#4 Have never used the "chalk" method, although have seen that used many times on tapered shank tooling ... I always clean both surfaces well and apply a very light coat of high-temp anti-seize to the PTO stub ... usually works well.
#5 Most important fact ... the beating on the end of the puller was a result of trying to get the puller out of my 22mm socket ... when it split in the socket it was seized in the socket so bad that the 4 lb. sledge and drift punch had to come out to remove it! Needless to say, the socket has seen better days but Sears will be replacing it anyway, so whatever ...
Finally got the puller out, this is what I did for those of you silly enough to do what I did (lol) Snapon sells 12" drill bits and that is what I used ,had to drill the entire puller out took a long time but finally got it. Then I used a three prong puller to get the rest of the clutch off. I have to replace the inner and outer faces but it should be fine.
Ps Put grease on the end of the puller and use heat(not to much) and save yourself a whole lot of time and money.
Ps Put grease on the end of the puller and use heat(not to much) and save yourself a whole lot of time and money.
Used a good snapon drill bit. Very good choice!! Glad to see you finally got it out.
I just had a puller twist on me. I was pushing down on the breaker bar and it just seemed like it was not turning in but yet the shaft was moving. So I smacked the end of it with a hammer, and finally gave up and went to take it out and could not get it to move, but if I held the pulled and turned the clutch it then started to slowly come out, finally it came out and was looking like a snake, it was twisted bad.
Glad to hear you got it outta there summit1000bob ... I was thinking the same only reverse cut bit/lefty ... I've got lucky with similar troubles and once the bit cut relieved the broken part, it spun right out with the bit. Regardless, props for being patient.
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