Broke bolt on lower belt drive pulley

[WyoBoy1000]

300 miles on 15 and pulley fell off. Sketchy.

Looked like it was off for a while, like it backed off 1/4" and wobbled I little from wear on the splines.

My cat is being worked on and this is my backup so I need it.

What is the best way to remove bolt, and what bolt do I use. Someone told me but I forgot.

 

[B&M Fabrications]

Drill a hole in it and use an easy out to extract, may have to heat it to melt the loctite. Replace with a 10.9 grade bolt...not sure on the thread pitch or length. I can dig one out and let you know when I get to the shop.

 

[BigBlueEdge]

Apparently a common issue.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3774934

Once you get the broken one out you can probably use a stock one to replace it to get you back running, but buy some of the hardened ones and replace it with one of them for a little more insurance.

Rob

 

[ZRP Engineering]

We've got Class 10.9 bolt kits available on our website if you don't want to deal with the hardware store or don't have access to a good one.
Kits will be in-stock and shipping out this Friday. IMO the chromoly ARP bolts are a bit much, the 10.9 will do just fine as they are 30% stronger than the stock bolts.

http://www.pesidaho.com/shop/class-109-polaris-quick-drive-replacement-bolts

 

[BigBlueEdge]

We've got Class 10.9 bolt kits available on our website if you don't want to deal with the hardware store or don't have access to a good one.
Kits will be in-stock and shipping out this Friday. IMO the chromoly ARP bolts are a bit much, the 10.9 will do just fine as they are 30% stronger than the stock bolts

The ARP bolts are 'a bit much' in what way? Too expensive to be worth it? Or too strong for the application? I assume you mean the former, but since the ARP ones really aren't that expensive ($3.30 or so shipped), I'm just curious.

Rob

 

[Johnny T.]

It's a 10 mm flange bolt with a 1.25 pitch x 20 mm long. You want a 10.9 class bolt to replace the 8.8 currently broke off in yours.

 

[richracer1]

It's a 10 mm flange bolt with a 1.25 pitch x 20 mm long. You want a 10.9 class bolt to replace the 8.8 currently broke off in yours.

The manual also states to not reuse bolts.

I have always went and bought new appropriate sized 10.9 flanged bolts if I remove the QD sprockets for any reason. 2 new bolts are like $2 to $3 for both at the hardware store. I also torqued them to the upper value of 45 ft/lbs.

 

[ZRP Engineering]

The ARP bolts are 'a bit much' in what way? Too expensive to be worth it? Or too strong for the application? I assume you mean the former, but since the ARP ones really aren't that expensive ($3.30 or so shipped), I'm just curious.

Rob

Both ways.
8.8~ 115ksi $3.39/each
10.9~150ksi (+30%) $1.83/each
ARP~170ksi (+47% from 8.8, +13% from 10.9) $3.40/each

Both the 10.9 and ARP will help mask the spline issue underlying the failures.

I've only seen ARP available in 5 packs, so have to buy 10 bolts if you have a 14/15.
$16.98+ $11.66+ $9.95 shipping =$38.59, if you can buy singles I'd be on board.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Stranded because of a bolt.........
Priceless.

Buy the 5 packs and have spares or for buddies.

Nordloc washers wouldn't hurt either.


















Or run a chaincase.

 

[LoudHandle]

Both ways.
8.8~ 115ksi $3.39/each
10.9~150ksi (+30%) $1.83/each
ARP~170ksi (+47% from 8.8, +13% from 10.9) $3.40/each

Both the 10.9 and ARP will help mask the spline issue underlying the failures.

I've only seen ARP available in 5 packs, so have to buy 10 bolts if you have a 14/15.
$16.98+ $11.66+ $9.95 shipping =$38.59, if you can buy singles I'd be on board.

As noted in bold

If you are BREAKING BOLTS there is a REASON; Whatever vendor supplies the stub ends for the drive shafts has a quality control issue. First, in '13 it was the glued side being undersized, causing the glue joint to fail. in '14 it appears they got the tolerances correct on both sides, for the most part. In '15 they got a lot of the splines undersized. No bolt is going to fix it if your shaft is undersized and the sprocket is not held in one place both radially and axially.

If anyone breaks a bolt; the first thing to check is sprocket to shaft fitment. Essentially if you can feel any movement-it is too loose. Replace it with one that fits snug with little to no perceptible movement. The tighter the fit the better.

 

[knifedge]

--It seems to be a driveshaft spline fitment to sprocket problem... not a bolt breakage problem...the bolt flexing trying to make up for wobbling sprocket on shaft...but you have warranty...

--BTW, new AXYS belt drive comes with....happy face collars on the driveshaft...and 7 tooth 2.86 drivers

 

[LoudHandle]

--.........................................................................
--BTW, new AXYS belt drive comes with....happy face collars on the driveshaft.........................................

I would like to see that (bold) but you are the first to have mentioned it. With all the conversations I've had with Sam, I would have thought he would have mentioned it (If that were true). The pre-production sleds definitely did not use them (they had the same old heavy collar they sent out in '13).

 

[knifedge]

--Was not aware of difference...basically just saying that belt drive Axys has thin aluminum driveshaft, glued end caps, with the two piece coller on the sprocket side...

--Chaicase setup has different driveshaft

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Drill a hole in it and use an easy out to extract, may have to heat it to melt the loctite. Replace with a 10.9 grade bolt...not sure on the thread pitch or length. I can dig one out and let you know when I get to the shop.

That would be great

 

[WyoBoy1000]

axys 3" has assault shaft

 

[B&M Fabrications]

It's a 10 mm flange bolt with a 1.25 pitch x 20 mm long. You want a 10.9 class bolt to replace the 8.8 currently broke off in yours.

The manual also states to not reuse bolts.

I have always went and bought new appropriate sized 10.9 flanged bolts if I remove the QD sprockets for any reason. 2 new bolts are like $2 to $3 for both at the hardware store. I also torqued them to the upper value of 45 ft/lbs.

Wyo this is all correct info. Those bolts are torque to yield meaning they are single use. I would not reuse that pulley since it was chewed so bad. (that bolt had to have been broken for a while before the pulley came off. thinking back on my string of bad luck lately.... we got lucky for once.) Like others have said make sure the new pulley fits the splines nice and snug or it will happen again. Going back to the fitment of the gears on the chain case sleds those gears fit almost too perfect, they almost needed to be pried on and off.

Bryan

 

[B&M Fabrications]

axys 3" has assault shaft

Yes the chain case sleds get the steel drive shaft. I personally think that with the way the drive shaft is so exposed on the Axys RMK sleds compared to anything else out right now people are going to have a ton more issues with the aluminum ones (and even the steel ones) when the start getting hit on rocks and logs.

Bryan