Yea I agree slp has a nice tone MBRP is really loud and kinda pisses people off, but i like it you wont piss me off.
Bought a 700 Dragon...Now What?
- Thread starter Dr Fantasmo
- Start date
Yea I agree slp has a nice tone MBRP is really loud and kinda pisses people off, but i like it you wont piss me off.
First and foremost if you ride powder and want to enjoy this sled you better install some Better Boards. The stock running boards suck if you ride in the powder at all! This is a standup riding powder sled and you can't stay on if your feet are slipping all over the place. HUGE RIDING BENEFIT WITH THIS PRODUCT!
www.snowmobilebetterboards.com and or simply search Better Boards and see what the masses say.
First and foremost a good clutch kit and simply having your sled setup in a good state of tune both chassis and engine is most important. These sleds make good power and are excellent mtn riding buggies if setup correctly. Call Carl's Cycle Sales in Boise Idaho 208-853-5550 and get the correct clutch kit for your application. They are the world's foremost Polaris RMK mtn experts and their setups are universally the best.
I see you asking about Holz Racing Products spindles. Yes those work great on that chassis and will improve your runners contact point and pivot points to make your sled handle better with the skis pressure down. Another cheap thing you can do is buy the woody's 6" wear bar for your stock gripper skis. The 4" wear bar that is stock does not contact the snow at the correct pressure and angle so it just pushes right past your turning or pivot point. The combo of the longer wear bar or carbide bar and the Holz spindles is a HUGE improvement. Setting up your rear suspension also effects this area but you have to test and change to find your comfort zone. Too much ski pressure effects transfer and off trail performance but there is some adjusting that you can do at home to find a happy spot.
Get a 2 cool dash vent and for sure some kind of belly pan venting on both clutch and exhaust side. Really beneficial both in performance consistancy and in belt life. Good vents pay for themselves in belts if you ride hard even if you are on really really good clutching.
Last thing I'd do is remove the engine hood foam...seal up the headlight and make sure your air plenum into the airbox is a perfect seal (this is huge on this package......then finally the stock exhaust is fine on this application but the can is huge heavy and restrictive. A good aftermarket can on the stock exhaust has benefits in weight mostly and a little more free breathing of your buggy. SLP for quiet...HPS for better performance but lots more noise.
www.snowmobilebetterboards.com and or simply search Better Boards and see what the masses say.
First and foremost a good clutch kit and simply having your sled setup in a good state of tune both chassis and engine is most important. These sleds make good power and are excellent mtn riding buggies if setup correctly. Call Carl's Cycle Sales in Boise Idaho 208-853-5550 and get the correct clutch kit for your application. They are the world's foremost Polaris RMK mtn experts and their setups are universally the best.
I see you asking about Holz Racing Products spindles. Yes those work great on that chassis and will improve your runners contact point and pivot points to make your sled handle better with the skis pressure down. Another cheap thing you can do is buy the woody's 6" wear bar for your stock gripper skis. The 4" wear bar that is stock does not contact the snow at the correct pressure and angle so it just pushes right past your turning or pivot point. The combo of the longer wear bar or carbide bar and the Holz spindles is a HUGE improvement. Setting up your rear suspension also effects this area but you have to test and change to find your comfort zone. Too much ski pressure effects transfer and off trail performance but there is some adjusting that you can do at home to find a happy spot.
Get a 2 cool dash vent and for sure some kind of belly pan venting on both clutch and exhaust side. Really beneficial both in performance consistancy and in belt life. Good vents pay for themselves in belts if you ride hard even if you are on really really good clutching.
Last thing I'd do is remove the engine hood foam...seal up the headlight and make sure your air plenum into the airbox is a perfect seal (this is huge on this package......then finally the stock exhaust is fine on this application but the can is huge heavy and restrictive. A good aftermarket can on the stock exhaust has benefits in weight mostly and a little more free breathing of your buggy. SLP for quiet...HPS for better performance but lots more noise.
i went with RSI risers and bar setup which i really like, some FU boards which i love and will put on any sled i buy, 19/42 gearing, clutches set up to run 8300-8400 rpm (which made a big difference) and a MBRP can, which yes is loud but sounds so sexy!! Next im gonna add a power commander becuase my plugs have been black and supposed to add the same hp as adding a pipe.
But u made a good choice with going with a 700, ive never had a problem with mine and they work well. Most people are suprised its only a 700.
But u made a good choice with going with a 700, ive never had a problem with mine and they work well. Most people are suprised its only a 700.
07 d7
yea i have a d7 with 3229 miles on it and it still runs like i bought it yesturday you should do slp pipe and a can thats really all that you need and you will be able to go anywhere that you want and they are a great sled.
yea i have a d7 with 3229 miles on it and it still runs like i bought it yesturday you should do slp pipe and a can thats really all that you need and you will be able to go anywhere that you want and they are a great sled.
I have a 2007 D7, 3700 MILES, had it since new,
Check out my TECH TIPS FOR 600/700/800 CFI thread in the INCREASING YOUR IQ "sticky" at the top.
Best mod, PC-3 (or PC-5) period, DYNOTECH JIM (585) 993-2777
Cleans up the mid range lean condition (5-7% RICHER)
AND LEAN out on top to where the plugs are a nice cardboard brown color, before they were always black
After that check your belt to sheave clearance, and engine alignment, mine and my bud's were way off!!
Also got a lot of P.M.'s about the engine having too much twist, especially the 2007 model
Hope this helps
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S
sledneck_03
Well-known member
^^^ Kravens the man, he knows his stuff on the 700.
My 700s stock other than clipped track, extra dash vent, clutch lower side panel venting, and i removed the hose from the exhaust valves to the solenoid and capped the ends. 2600 miles and only one ves bellow needed replacing. i also added walker evans off a 09 dragon, alot of bashing but so far i have no problems with them, some say the ryde fx rmk shocks are better but screw that....they are the worst shocks ever the walkers are far better.........my sled sits higher and is not so tippy now and i had all my rydes maxed out before too, if i have problems ill send them to fabcraft to get the piggy backs put on. i took the hood plenum out and sealed everywhere with foam stripping. i also got slp filter material and covered my nose vents and put a piece between the plenum and horn so if any snow gets up there or some of the extra sealing foam i put in comes loose it cant get into the airbox.
Im going to do some stirrup venting and the full length lower side vents by mountainfithoods.net, i like that his vents come in black so they dont look so tacky and he has awesome prices.
Im going to do some better boards in red or black, cant decide.
im going to do a powercommander, ive seen from dynotech jim 8-10hp increase with just the tuner. and a slp can for weight.....and a slp pipe if have the cash later then re tune.
still need to get some 6 inch carbides this year
My 700s stock other than clipped track, extra dash vent, clutch lower side panel venting, and i removed the hose from the exhaust valves to the solenoid and capped the ends. 2600 miles and only one ves bellow needed replacing. i also added walker evans off a 09 dragon, alot of bashing but so far i have no problems with them, some say the ryde fx rmk shocks are better but screw that....they are the worst shocks ever the walkers are far better.........my sled sits higher and is not so tippy now and i had all my rydes maxed out before too, if i have problems ill send them to fabcraft to get the piggy backs put on. i took the hood plenum out and sealed everywhere with foam stripping. i also got slp filter material and covered my nose vents and put a piece between the plenum and horn so if any snow gets up there or some of the extra sealing foam i put in comes loose it cant get into the airbox.
Im going to do some stirrup venting and the full length lower side vents by mountainfithoods.net, i like that his vents come in black so they dont look so tacky and he has awesome prices.
Im going to do some better boards in red or black, cant decide.
im going to do a powercommander, ive seen from dynotech jim 8-10hp increase with just the tuner. and a slp can for weight.....and a slp pipe if have the cash later then re tune.
still need to get some 6 inch carbides this year
4
440dart
Well-known member
i traded doug my single slp for his slp twins and they frickin rip but i ride 4000-8000ft there for sale if interested iam wanting to go turbo got a attitude fuel controler also.
i would say best bang for the buck if you ride in powder is to put a camo extreme on and clutching. that would be my first thing i would do if i bought a new polaris
i would say best bang for the buck if you ride in powder is to put a camo extreme on and clutching. that would be my first thing i would do if i bought a new polaris
i put an 2006 M-7 handle bars on mine and my buddies, i think a riser will do about the same but had extra's laying around, and i love the control i feel with them!!
My 2007 D7
Mountain Fit Hood vents on side panels, shock towers, and next to the tach.
Frogzskin big air vents on dash.
5-1/2" riser from HRP.
RSI full length hi-power grip warmers.
Sanded down the stock bar ends to fit 7" Odi grips over them.
19 tooth top gear.
SLP can.
Mountain Adict tunnel rack.
Re-valved both track shocks with 2009 specs @ Walker Evans Factory.
New 16 pos. clicker piggy back WE Needles with dual stage springs from Tri-City on the front.
K&N filter #RU-2510 fits like a glove on top of the stock airbox with K&N dry prefilter to keep powder out of the intake. Similar to the Timbersled intake but for like $200 less.
Other than stock shocks needing rebuilt it hasn't "needed" anything but oil & gas.
Mountain Fit Hood vents on side panels, shock towers, and next to the tach.
Frogzskin big air vents on dash.
5-1/2" riser from HRP.
RSI full length hi-power grip warmers.
Sanded down the stock bar ends to fit 7" Odi grips over them.
19 tooth top gear.
SLP can.
Mountain Adict tunnel rack.
Re-valved both track shocks with 2009 specs @ Walker Evans Factory.
New 16 pos. clicker piggy back WE Needles with dual stage springs from Tri-City on the front.
K&N filter #RU-2510 fits like a glove on top of the stock airbox with K&N dry prefilter to keep powder out of the intake. Similar to the Timbersled intake but for like $200 less.
Other than stock shocks needing rebuilt it hasn't "needed" anything but oil & gas.
