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Bottom end lubrication

xmk1080

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Last year I lost a pto bearing while I was in togwotee and the snow was the snow was amazing. Some how I was able to limp it back to the lodge. Not sure why this happened, but I would like to take extra percautions to prevent this from happening again. Going to turn my oil pump up and and put the updated motor mounts in. My mounts were bad and I could move the motor quite a bit, it had 1100 miles on it. They did such a good job building this sled, but why does the simplist things get overlooked with all the testing they did. The clutching and gearing is also off from 9000 ft and higher, the sweet spot is from 8250 to 8300 rpm. I'm thinking that this failure is a combitation of all these items combined, extra load, extra side load, and lack of oil. I've got the clutching and gearing all figured out and will be replacing the motor mounts if they ever get shipped to my dealer. But I would like some more insight on the oiling, I have not tore one of these motors down yet but I'm thinking about it. I know that there are three oil bosses to supply the bearings, but is there also oil passages in the crankcase? Just wondering if this would help or is it not needed? I also checked run out on new motor and it is perfect. Maybe I should just turn the oil pump up, balance the clutch and ride it, these pros are amazing to ride!
 
there is no oil passages in the crank, and really they shouldnt be needed, alot of issues last season were caused by the oil supply line being kinked right at the oil pump..as for turning up the oil pump..set it right at 1 qt(or just a bit more) for every 10 gallons of fuel..
 
Possibly add a little extra as premix as well?? I'm still considering doing that with my new sled. Gonna set pump as close to 40:1 as possible and maybe run a few oz in the tank.
 
I oil line was not kinked, but I'm going to set it to 40:1 or a little richer. I don't believe that mixing your gas will help with bottom end lubrication if there are no crankcase oil passage holes.
 
XMK, what your clutching setup? How do we know the adjustment to 40:1? I was going to go two turns in. Or three.
 
XMK, what your clutching setup? How do we know the adjustment to 40:1? I was going to go two turns in. Or three.



You need to mark your oil resevoir, then measure the consumption, then just do the math to figure your usage. From there adjust accordingly. Can kinda be a lengthy annoying process. But you might get lucky and get it set right or very close on your first try.
 
do you know what your ratio was last year? some were scary low and i really think this has the potential to burn up more motors than almost anything else. i check mine the first 5 plus rides and intermediately throughout the season and i was always between 40 to 45:1. i was happy with that. don't forget it is still a 2-stroke and it needs oil to live. that hasn't changed just b/c the epa is on everyone's *** over emissions.

pv
 
Premix is your friend, I always add some oil to every tank. 2 strokes like oil.
 
My clutching setup at 9000' and higher with a 163" track.
*Tied secondard with a 71-55.46 helix, helix/spring shim, three delrin washers, and a black/white spring.
*10-60 and stock spring work with this, but I was also running slp mtx 68g and slp blue/pink spring.
*Also geared it down to a 19/43
I had a huge problem with the secondary shifting to fast and had to go down in helix angle. It was slipping the belt in the primary and getting inconsistant low rpm's. It holds 8300 all the time and has an amazing backshift. Going to try a lighter spring in the secondary next and if that works I will move it to the 71-57 angle. If you don't want to spent the money on a tied(which they are amazing), I think that you could go down two degrees on each angle on the 04 team and run the delrin washers and helix shim, probably have similar results.
 
My '10 D8 was around 50-60:1 as delivered. Fine, for a race sled, but no rec engine should be less than 40:1... My opinion!
 
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