Boondocker Naturally Aspirated Control Box Tech Support.

[krat]

thank you junior.

 

[PistonBroke]

tuning strategy

Hey guys, Junior,

I've got a general question on tuning strategy with an A/F gauge and EGT probes.

Simply, the two don't seem to agree with each other sometimes! The agree when doing a big pull - get a nice 13.5 to 13.2 on the A/F, and nice 1150F EGT's on both holes. Sweet, no issues there.

Now when running at light throttle loads, I get nice low EGT's - errrr.....600-700F I think, but the A/F is going crazy, ready way lean 15.5 - 17.0, and even sometimes right out of the range of the wideband. Am I in danger of a burndown at low RPM/low throttle?

-2007 M1000 with 2008 reflash
-speedwerx y pipe
-stock pipe
-BDX power valve delete
-slp can
-BDX intake
-boondocker box

Sorry I don't have my current #'s handy but have some -'ves in the low ranges, mostly zeros through the mid range, and some +8, +10's in the HI for the higher RPM's.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated

Pistonbroke

 

[Squeal]

At very light throttle...5-10mph, mine does to. 14-15's on the A/F guage.

 

[PistonBroke]

ttt

help?

 

[savedbygrace]

Hey guys, Junior,

I've got a general question on tuning strategy with an A/F gauge and EGT probes.

Simply, the two don't seem to agree with each other sometimes! The agree when doing a big pull - get a nice 13.5 to 13.2 on the A/F, and nice 1150F EGT's on both holes. Sweet, no issues there.

Now when running at light throttle loads, I get nice low EGT's - errrr.....600-700F I think, but the A/F is going crazy, ready way lean 15.5 - 17.0, and even sometimes right out of the range of the wideband. Am I in danger of a burndown at low RPM/low throttle?

-2007 M1000 with 2008 reflash
-speedwerx y pipe
-stock pipe
-BDX power valve delete
-slp can
-BDX intake
-boondocker box

Sorry I don't have my current #'s handy but have some -'ves in the low ranges, mostly zeros through the mid range, and some +8, +10's in the HI for the higher RPM's.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated

Pistonbroke

It is not uncommon to see A/F number go high under low load or deceleration. EGT temps in the 600-700 range are very low, provided your probes are mounted in the appropriate location, about 4 ½” from the piston skirt (2-2 ½” from the exhaust flange). It sounds to me like you’re on the right track. When under a full throttle load on a NA sled I look for A/F numbers in the mid 13s. When cruising in the mid with little to no load I’ll often see A/F numbers in the 14s, 15s, even 16s. Being able to back this up with low EGTs should give you even more confidence.

Hope this helps, let me know.
Thanks,
Junior

 

[Squeal]

It is not uncommon to see A/F number go high under low load or deceleration. EGT temps in the 600-700 range are very low, provided your probes are mounted in the appropriate location, about 4 ½” from the piston skirt (2-2 ½” from the exhaust flange). It sounds to me like you’re on the right track. When under a full throttle load on a NA sled I look for A/F numbers in the mid 13s. When cruising in the mid with little to no load I’ll often see A/F numbers in the 14s, 15s, even 16s. Being able to back this up with low EGTs should give you even more confidence.

Hope this helps, let me know.
Thanks,
Junior

So you are saying A/F numbers of mid 13's at full throttle is OK? I was trying to keep it below 13.

Thanks

 

[Squeal]

ttt

 

[PistonBroke]

It is not uncommon to see A/F number go high under low load or deceleration. EGT temps in the 600-700 range are very low, provided your probes are mounted in the appropriate location, about 4 ½” from the piston skirt (2-2 ½” from the exhaust flange). It sounds to me like you’re on the right track. When under a full throttle load on a NA sled I look for A/F numbers in the mid 13s. When cruising in the mid with little to no load I’ll often see A/F numbers in the 14s, 15s, even 16s. Being able to back this up with low EGTs should give you even more confidence.

Hope this helps, let me know.
Thanks,
Junior

Hey Junior, thanks for taking the time to write back. EGT probes are exactly 100mm (4") from the piston skirt, extending around 40% of the way into the exhaust stream - this is based on advice I got from Koso.

I am going to return the sled to stock(except can and power valve delete) for a day and do some troubleshooting. I will leave the A/F probe in the sled to see what numbers I am getting on the stock setup.

We actually had the sled outright quit on us at high altitude (twice), only to have it run pretty well down in low altitude. Either I am so out to lunch on my settings that it won't run right, or something's wrong with the sled. I'll report back on what I find.

Thanks again guys,
Pistonbroke

 

[savedbygrace]

So you are saying A/F numbers of mid 13's at full throttle is OK? I was trying to keep it below 13.

Thanks

13.5 will build the most HP, and is perfectly safe on an NA sled, when on boost or nitrous I like to see A/F numbers in the mid 12s.

Thanks
Junior

 

[Thunder101]

Im just getting my boondocker installed and since this engine is not
a purchased pk that comes w/BD# as baseline I will be starting with
(guessing) my oun base line. it is a F7 BB to 800cc with rave style
ex valves,vreed,Fatazz pipe,y pipe, ported case ,ex ported and transfur
tunnels opened a little. so my question is the # at 3000 there
is no need for a Hi setting and 6700 no need for a low, but you
would have a low setting at 78 and 8100 to add fuel after letting off
from a pull. ?? and how much do you add for a low setting ?
BTW in has the 06 reflash. more ?? to come Im sure

 

[Skinner]

Junior,
Is there any reason to have a fuel number in the low load range on the 7200 thru 7800 settings. I have been noticing that when I let off my numbers get really high after a long pull. Should I add some numbers to the low load? I have zeros in there right now. Thanks

 

[nytro24]

is boondocker working on any sort of closed loop system? ie. like the power commander V system?

 

[Thunder101]

Junior.........anyone, info,,,,,,help

 

[savedbygrace]

Im just getting my boondocker installed and since this engine is not
a purchased pk that comes w/BD# as baseline I will be starting with
(guessing) my oun base line. it is a F7 BB to 800cc with rave style
ex valves,vreed,Fatazz pipe,y pipe, ported case ,ex ported and transfur
tunnels opened a little. so my question is the # at 3000 there
is no need for a Hi setting and 6700 no need for a low, but you
would have a low setting at 78 and 8100 to add fuel after letting off
from a pull. ?? and how much do you add for a low setting ?
BTW in has the 06 reflash. more ?? to come Im sure

Junior,
Is there any reason to have a fuel number in the low load range on the 7200 thru 7800 settings. I have been noticing that when I let off my numbers get really high after a long pull. Should I add some numbers to the low load? I have zeros in there right now. Thanks

You can put numbers in the lo and mid at the top rpm ranges like 7800 or 8100, to add fuel when you let off. Some guys feel like this is necessary, and it’s common practice for racers, or dyno runs. But beware, adding numbers in these areas can also add to much fuel on a deceleration, causing the engine to load up when you let off, than grab the throttle and go again.

I’ve seen numbers in these areas as high as 20, 30 or even 40 on race sleds or on the dyno. But I think that anything higher than 5 or 10, would most likely cause a pretty significant mid range rich condition, on a mountain or trail sled.

Thanks,
Junior

 

[AK800VE]

I just bought a boondocker nitrous kit from Justin at Code Red, do you happen to have any base line numbers for tuning? I run anywhere from 0ft to 4000ft.

Also I was thinking of maybe getting a o2 gauge to help with tuning. What brand and where would you recommned where to get it.

 

[AK800VE]

I just bought a boondocker nitrous kit from Justin at Code Red, do you happen to have any base line numbers for tuning? I run anywhere from 0ft to 4000ft.

Also I was thinking of maybe getting a o2 gauge to help with tuning. What brand and where would you recommned where to get it.

TTT

Or would duel EGT gauges work

 

[crossfire7]

i have an o6 crossfire 7 which i have extended to a 153 i have recently bought jaws twins and i cant get them tuned in for minnesota wisconsn just woundering if you had any tips

 

[Skinner]

You can put numbers in the lo and mid at the top rpm ranges like 7800 or 8100, to add fuel when you let off. Some guys feel like this is necessary, and it’s common practice for racers, or dyno runs. But beware, adding numbers in these areas can also add to much fuel on a deceleration, causing the engine to load up when you let off, than grab the throttle and go again.

Thanks,
Junior

When i let off ofter a long pull my A/F number go through the roof. Would adding a little bit on the low mid help this? Thanks for the help.

Skin

 

[Arctic Thunder]

M1000 with BD box keep dropping one cylinder

Junior, I posted this in the AC section. (Couldn't find this thread last night)

I have my BD box on basically a bone stock 07 M1000. I have the fuel pressure set at 42psi (BMP regulator). I have the BD box setup to keep my EGT's in the 1150-1200 range through out the RPM range and at all throttle settings. This works well at 6000ft and up. When riding lower elevations at a steady throttle setting around 5400rpm in the low tps I will have the Mag cylinder drop out. I will see a good 400 deg difference in EGT temps. If I nail the throttle it will snap right up and pull hard. (Sometimes not but 90% of the time it will clean right up).

I am wondering if the ECU is compensating the fuel to the point that it is running rich and causing it to foul due to the lower elevations. I have copied my 6000ft fuel map and tried to adjust the fuel. I have to add a couple points to keep the temps below 1250 but then it wants to foul when I get out of it. Pulls hard, snap off the throttle and it will foul.

Any ideas. I plan to call BD tomorrow and talk about it but thought I would try the SW guys first.

Thanks

Thunder

 

[darrellw]

In response to the last couple of posts I also have twins and the BD box on my racin station 800 M7 and I can tell you that most of the issues are not with the box but with the twins. I had a buddy running the SLP twins and the pure logic and he had the same inconsistency problems. We are both good at tuning but the twins can be a pain sometimes. I have changed numbers a ton, checked wash, brought the bore scope on the mountain etc and one day its spot on and the next it is not with the twins.

Maybe Junior can give us some more insight on tuning with twins.

i have a 05 f7 lake race ported .pipe and bd box,im putting a air fuel ratio guage on it this week,my dealer told me fuel pressure should be 46 and a/f guage set at 12.2 is this correct