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Boondocker Naturally Aspirated Control Box Tech Support.

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I have a Fuel Only Box for a M1000. Can it be updated with the external stats capture button that I can mount on the handler bars?

Thanks

You can not use the remote capture button with the fuel only box, but you can us the left aero button on the box to capture.
 
I have a Racin Station M8 bigbore and have been all over with my numbers on the boondocker box. I have some buddies that run the attitude box with thiers and they dont have to adjust thier boxes at all and I'm adjusting for everything all the time. My question is why do I have to adjust so much and they don't have to adjust for say elevation or temp. Maybe my numbers are way off and that is it.

Had the same problem with my box on my m7 with slp twins . I would have it running great one day then the next day it would not . Same temp and elevation same everything .

In response to the last couple of posts I also have twins and the BD box on my racin station 800 M7 and I can tell you that most of the issues are not with the box but with the twins. I had a buddy running the SLP twins and the pure logic and he had the same inconsistency problems. We are both good at tuning but the twins can be a pain sometimes. I have changed numbers a ton, checked wash, brought the bore scope on the mountain etc and one day its spot on and the next it is not with the twins.

Maybe Junior can give us some more insight on tuning with twins.

Can you guys post an example of the control box numbers you’re running? That would be the best place to start.

Thanks
 
I'm pretty sure these were the #s I was running at home:

RPM Low Mid High Trim
3000 -3 0 0 0
5000 0 3 0 0
6700 0 0 -13 -1
7800 0 0 -5 -1
8100 0 0 3 -1

As soon as gained elevation, the tune went out the window. Should I have to change my tune whenever altitude changes?
 
When in the Stats run/cap mode what does the % of duty cycle mean? The directions give this.

5.1 Stats: RUN/CAPTURE
Selecting Stats from the Main Menu will first display the following screen with real “Run-time” data (current
conditions):
Run 35/40 F 10 █
5500 MD █ █ █ N
Run “Run” indicates display is in Run mode. If in capture mode, “Cap” will be displayed.
35 Input duty cycle in percent
40 Output duty cycle in percent
F 10 Fuel adjustment
5500 RPM (note, if the engine is shut off, the last recorded RPM may be displayed)
MD Engine Load. LO, MD, or HI will be displayed.
█ █ █ These bars are a graphic display of LO, MD, or HI as shown below:
LO
MD █ █ █
HI █ █ █ █ █ █
N Nitrous is on (also indicated by the black square above it)

It may help if I understood what this stuff is. Such as "input duty cycle and output duty cycle". Input and output from what? ECU, control box, the difference between the two? Maybe it's just me, but I have a hard time trying to figure out what all this stuff is. Can you dumb it down for me? Do you guys have other instructions that go more in depth on the explanation of what this stuff means and how to get in and adjust these settings for the average guy.

Thanks.

Input duty cycle is the signal the ECU is sending to the control box. Output duty cycle is the signal the control box is sending to the injector.
 
These are the numbers eric at the racin station gave me for 3-6k:

3K 2 3 2 0
5K 2 5 5 0
6.7K 2 6 11 0
7.8K 2 6 14 0
8.1K 0 5 16 0
Alex
 
Where do you recommend placing an O2 sensor on the Mseries? How about tapping into a 12v power source on an 06 M?

There seems to be some inconsistency on sensor placement- some say in the exhaust can, others say in the expansion chamber of the pipe. I believe we're all looking for the most accurate location, wherever that may be. Thank you for starting this thread!
 
unhappy box user

sorry moved on to a polaris so I wouldn't have to use a box . But I would like to get a m1000 but i just don't quite trust a box again untell I see it for myself. I would like to see something that I could set the numbers one time and then the sled would compensate like the a stock sled dose . Then I will get another box.
 
J-Dog I see you are in Idaho Falls might be worth stopping by Boondockers sometime and having Kyle or one of the guys go through it with you as I'm sure they would be happy to do so.
 
Input duty cycle is the signal the ECU is sending to the control box. Output duty cycle is the signal the control box is sending to the injector.

Okay. So if I understand you correctly. The ECU is putting out 35% of the 100% available fuel and then the control box is adding another 5% to the mix(with the adjustment of 10) in that captured rpm range. And it tells me I would be in the mid range on the adjustment portion of the setting. So if I used the cap mod and found I was running rich (plugs and wash) at that rpm setting this would tell me that I could drop a few #'s in the mid 5000 setting?

Thanks
 
Can someone tell me if my tune should have to change with elevation using the BD box with twins?

Is there a better box I can use that doesn't require retuning for elevation?
 
I'm with you BLk, I think since the ECU is compensating for altitude, we shouldn't have to adjust our Boondocker boxes. Derrick at Attitude Industries says that with the attitude box we wouldnt have to. You just set it once and then it works with the ECU and does the calculations for you. Where as with the Boondocker box the rider is doing all the calculations and that is why we have to keep adjusting. I don't know though. I'm hoping for some clarification on this from Boondocker.
Alex
 
I'll have to look at my box and see if I saved a map for home and one for out west. But I do remember messing with it when I was out west. I don't think I made a lot of adjustment, but I'm running a single pipe.
 
I noticed you had to adjust the BD box more with a change in tempure than elevation.

I have a couple of maps, one for cold days, one for warmer, etc. Works good.
 
You could be right on the temp thing. But when at home (900' ele) to out west (8000' + ele) I had to make some minor adjustments. When going from 6000 to 9000 I could see that you wouldn't have to make changes for elevation. Or if you did it may be one or two numbers.
 
You could be right on the temp thing. But when at home (900' ele) to out west (8000' + ele) I had to make some minor adjustments. When going from 6000 to 9000 I could see that you wouldn't have to make changes for elevation. Or if you did it may be one or two numbers.
From 900ft to 8000ft, I dont think I would complain about that. That is a big change.
 
Sorry, I must have been unclear on what I posted. I was replying to auelands post about changing the #'s for elevation. I'm definately not complaining about having to change my #'s for that big of a swing in elevation. But I was also replying to your post about the temp thing having more to do with adjusting your #'s when you are already at a higher elevation to start with. Hope that makes more sence. I need to use quotes more.
 
Last edited:
aueland, that's exactly what I'm talking about. I just want to know if this is expected behavior or not.

Pro Logic claims the same thing as Attitude.

I don't mind tuning a setup initially, but not constantly.
 
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