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Boondocker Naturally Aspirated Control Box Tech Support.

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savedbygrace

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Hey this is Junior from Boondocker, I work in the technical support department. As the season starts to wind up, questions about the BD Control Box become more and more frequent. I would like to have an open discussion on whatever questions might be out there. If you have any questions please ask and I will do my best to answer them promptly and to the point. The only thing I ask is that, this thread stay on topic with naturally aspirated, and nitrous control box questions only, as I’ve started a similar thread pertaining to turbo control boxes.

Thanks,
Junior
 
I have some questions about the BD box and nitrous. I bought a used 06 m7 efi with bikeman pipe mod and SLP can (call it stock, for all practical purposes) and am looking at putting your nitrous system on it. I only get 1 trip a year out west so I don't want to spend my week constantly tuning and screwing with various settings. This is assuming I leave the stock EFI settings alone (0's across the board) and just get the nitrous menu set up to run at 6600' around West Yellowstone.

My question(s) is this: If I run your fixed regulator and a 30 or 40 shot, do I need to adjust the nitrous setting as we go up above 6600'? Or, is it really just a set it once at 6600 and you're good to go for the week? Any other 'gotchas' or anything like that?

I've looked at other nitrous systems, and 1 manufacturer said "install at sea level and it doesn't matter where you go- you're good on 91 octane at any elevation." Granted this other system is a wet system, but that just kind of defies logic, at least to me. Is there actually any truth to those statements? I can supply the vendor name, but didn't think it was necessary to throw that in there since I'm focused on the Boondocker system as it appears to be by far the most technologically advanced way to go.

Thank you for this thread- I really appreciate it!!
 
Advanced settings...

Junior, thanks for the thread. I have a boondocker fuel-only box on my M1000 with an SLP pipe set, and was wondering if there is a guide for working with advanced settings and data capture - these items have been discussed on the forum in the past, but I'd certainly like to hear them from the manufacturer. If you have a pdf of what I'm looking for, perhaps you could email it to me: kzajes@telusmail.net - I would appreciate it.

Thanks again
 
I have some questions about the BD box and nitrous. I bought a used 06 m7 efi with bikeman pipe mod and SLP can (call it stock, for all practical purposes) and am looking at putting your nitrous system on it. I only get 1 trip a year out west so I don't want to spend my week constantly tuning and screwing with various settings. This is assuming I leave the stock EFI settings alone (0's across the board) and just get the nitrous menu set up to run at 6600' around West Yellowstone.

My question(s) is this: If I run your fixed regulator and a 30 or 40 shot, do I need to adjust the nitrous setting as we go up above 6600'? Or, is it really just a set it once at 6600 and you're good to go for the week? Any other 'gotchas' or anything like that?

I've looked at other nitrous systems, and 1 manufacturer said "install at sea level and it doesn't matter where you go- you're good on 91 octane at any elevation." Granted this other system is a wet system, but that just kind of defies logic, at least to me. Is there actually any truth to those statements? I can supply the vendor name, but didn't think it was necessary to throw that in there since I'm focused on the Boondocker system as it appears to be by far the most technologically advanced way to go.

Thank you for this thread- I really appreciate it!!

Good Question...

It is true, the amount of nitrous introduced to the engine is not affected by elevation, so the amount of fuel needed for the nitrous will also not be affected by elevation. Typically a 30-40 HP shot of nitrous used above 6500’ with stock compression will be fine using 91 octane. As you go up in elevation from there you should not have to adjust the fuel added for nitrous. However as you go down in elevation you may need to meet higher octane requirements.

Thanks
 
Junior, thanks for the thread. I have a boondocker fuel-only box on my M1000 with an SLP pipe set, and was wondering if there is a guide for working with advanced settings and data capture - these items have been discussed on the forum in the past, but I'd certainly like to hear them from the manufacturer. If you have a pdf of what I'm looking for, perhaps you could email it to me: kzajes@telusmail.net - I would appreciate it.

Thanks again

Here is a link to the M-1000 control box instructions, check out page 9.

http://www.boondockers.com/instructions/snow/arctic cat/control box/AC_5A_121407_TPS.pdf

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks
 
Hey this is Junior from Boondocker, I work in the technical support department. As the season starts to wind up, questions about the BD Control Box become more and more frequent. I would like to have an open discussion on whatever questions might be out there. If you have any questions please ask and I will do my best to answer them promptly and to the point. The only thing I ask is that, this thread stay on topic with naturally aspirated, and nitrous control box questions only, as I’ve started a similar thread pertaining to turbo control boxes.

Thanks,
Junior

So I got a dumb question for ya. I have a 07 D7, pretty much stock. Hopefully will have a can and gears this year. Would I benifit from a BD control Box on a NA application with so few mods?
 
Good Question...

It is true, the amount of nitrous introduced to the engine is not affected by elevation, so the amount of fuel needed for the nitrous will also not be affected by elevation. Typically a 30-40 HP shot of nitrous used above 6500’ with stock compression will be fine using 91 octane. As you go up in elevation from there you should not have to adjust the fuel added for nitrous. However as you go down in elevation you may need to meet higher octane requirements.

Thanks

Thank you for the quick response- I/we appreciate it!

I plan on using a Koso O2 sensor gauge to dial in. What A/F ratio/number should I be looking for? What is safe when on the button (as well as off?)
 
So I got a dumb question for ya. I have a 07 D7, pretty much stock. Hopefully will have a can and gears this year. Would I benifit from a BD control Box on a NA application with so few mods?

You could get some gains out of your D7 with a control box, even with just a few mods. It will require some tuning, but you could pick up some throttle response and a little extra HP. You’d also be ready for nitrous in the future.:D
 
Thank you for the quick response- I/we appreciate it!

I plan on using a Koso O2 sensor gauge to dial in. What A/F ratio/number should I be looking for? What is safe when on the button (as well as off?)

Mid 13s (13.5:1) under acceleration will make the most HP, cruising at a steady speed you can see mid 14s.

On the nitrous you’ll want to keep it in the mid to high 12s to be safe.
 
noss settings

I have a 06 m7 with a BMP 800 kit in it. I have always had a box on it but this year i up dated to a newer box and put noss on it with 40 hp shot. I ride between 2000 and 7000 elevation . where should i start with noss setting.

Thanks
 
I have a Fuel Only Box for a M1000. Can it be updated with the external stats capture button that I can mount on the handler bars?

Thanks
 
I have a Racin Station M8 bigbore and have been all over with my numbers on the boondocker box. I have some buddies that run the attitude box with thiers and they dont have to adjust thier boxes at all and I'm adjusting for everything all the time. My question is why do I have to adjust so much and they don't have to adjust for say elevation or temp. Maybe my numbers are way off and that is it.
 
Had the same problem with my box on my m7 with slp twins . I would have it running great one day then the next day it would not . Same temp and elevation same everything .
 
You could get some gains out of your D7 with a control box, even with just a few mods. It will require some tuning, but you could pick up some throttle response and a little extra HP. You’d also be ready for nitrous in the future.:D

Cool, thanks for the info.
 
In response to the last couple of posts I also have twins and the BD box on my racin station 800 M7 and I can tell you that most of the issues are not with the box but with the twins. I had a buddy running the SLP twins and the pure logic and he had the same inconsistency problems. We are both good at tuning but the twins can be a pain sometimes. I have changed numbers a ton, checked wash, brought the bore scope on the mountain etc and one day its spot on and the next it is not with the twins.

Maybe Junior can give us some more insight on tuning with twins.
 
Arctic Cat issues

Here's a quick overview of some of my thoughts on the Arctic Cats, and tuning in general:

Twin pipes have sometimes been difficult to tune, or at least to get to run consistently (esp. with porting) due to several issues.

First of all, since these pipes generally increase the rpms where max torque is produced, the fuel curve needs to be shifted accordingly. This means the stock fueling curve is likely to be on the rich side in the mid rpms (hence the negative numbers suggested for some pipes at 6700 HI), and too lean at higher rpms, which can be adjusted for using the control box.

An important factor to be aware of is how the stock fueling behaves when the exhaust valves open. To meet emissions and to allow good fuel efficiency, the engine is programmed to run lean before the ex. valves open. Then, to produce more power safely, the engine runs rich just after the valves open. To complicate matters worse, the valve opening is delayed at higher elevations (around 8500ft and above), which can suddenly cause the engine to run too lean if you are already removing fuel in the mid-range. Some people just run richer at lower elevations so their tuning is safe for higher elevations. Another solution is to use the map feature and to load different maps depending on the elevation.

I think the best solution for this issue is to use a method I devised to bring the ex. valve position signal into the control box using the TPS input, then using the Nitrous activation features, create an RPM window where fuel (N2O fuel) is added when engine is above a fixed rpm (5500rpm) and stays on as rpms increase until the exhaust valve opens, which causes the TPS signal to drop and shuts off this extra fuel in order to cover this lean spot. This way, you don’t have to guess the rpms when the ex. valve opens and tuning is much more consistent. (this is a little difficult to understand at first, somewhere I think there are instructions that explain this).

One other issue to be aware of is on the 05 and the 06 M7’s (esp. at higher elevations) there is sometimes a lean bog that develops around 5000 rpms (just as throttle is opening after clutch engagement). Some people have changed clutching to get around this, but it can simply be fixed by adding 2-3 numbers at the 5000 LO and MD settings.

In general, the 05 Arctic Cat factory programming is on the rich side (fuel can be safely removed on a stock sled), the 06 is a little leaner (mostly on the top end), and the 07/08 programming is generally leaner due to emissions requirements so sometimes performance can be gained by adding fuel on a stock sled.. Using EGTs and an Air/Fuel gauge can greatly help in getting tuning spot-on. I highly recommend using the nitrous button which can be configured to capture/freeze the Stats screen during riding –push it when you encounter a rough spot you’re trying to tune in order to later stop and see exact rpms and engine load conditions. There is also an LED that can be plugged into the Nitrous harness – the box can program the LED to turn whenever engine load is in MD, or during ACEL, or during Nitrous activation.
 
fastgas, thanks for the post. I too am a victim of twin pipes on the M7.

I had my setup dialed in back home (~1000ft) and went out west (lodge @ ~7000) and the tuneup was even driveable at all. I messed with it for a half hour and ended up going back to the stock exhaust.

I attempted to get a hold of Boondocker but was unsuccessful. Being that the pipes and tuneup really aren't their problem or product, I just hung the pipes on the wall in hopes that someone comes out with something that works. I want a pull the cord and ride sled and that doesn't seem possible with twins from my experience using the BD box.
 
When in the Stats run/cap mode what does the % of duty cycle mean? The directions give this.

5.1 Stats: RUN/CAPTURE
Selecting Stats from the Main Menu will first display the following screen with real “Run-time” data (current
conditions):
Run 35/40 F 10 █
5500 MD █ █ █ N
Run “Run” indicates display is in Run mode. If in capture mode, “Cap” will be displayed.
35 Input duty cycle in percent
40 Output duty cycle in percent
F 10 Fuel adjustment
5500 RPM (note, if the engine is shut off, the last recorded RPM may be displayed)
MD Engine Load. LO, MD, or HI will be displayed.
█ █ █ These bars are a graphic display of LO, MD, or HI as shown below:
LO
MD █ █ █
HI █ █ █ █ █ █
N Nitrous is on (also indicated by the black square above it)

It may help if I understood what this stuff is. Such as "input duty cycle and output duty cycle". Input and output from what? ECU, control box, the difference between the two? Maybe it's just me, but I have a hard time trying to figure out what all this stuff is. Can you dumb it down for me? Do you guys have other instructions that go more in depth on the explanation of what this stuff means and how to get in and adjust these settings for the average guy.

Thanks.
 
I have a 06 m7 with a BMP 800 kit in it. I have always had a box on it but this year i up dated to a newer box and put noss on it with 40 hp shot. I ride between 2000 and 7000 elevation . where should i start with noss setting.

Thanks

In non regulated mode the factory default setting should be 50, that is where I would start, that will probably be a little on the rich side. When you go to tune it in, pick an area where you can repeat the same run over and over, preferably an area with an up hill grade. Make a pass using the nitrous for one or two seconds at a time, making note of the RPM. Stop and turn the nitrous fuel in the control box down 3-5 numbers and repeat the run. If it feels more powerful and your RPM is increased from the last run you’re going in the right direction. If it feels like you lost power and your RPM decreased from the last run, than you need to add fuel. Continue to repeat runs adjusting fuel until you reach a peak, and you’re set. Your N20 fuel number will probably end up somewhere around 36-40.
 
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