S
Sno Junkie
Active member
Tried it. Still hit DET sensor. Waste of money and time as far as I'm concerned. I mix 50/50 at 7000 ft and run 9 lbs. Way better performance. I tried running 7 lbs with TCM and hit DET all day long.
Boondocker E timing key or OVS timing key on Twisted Turbo kits
- Thread starter av8er
- Start date
ave8er, I still think you are running way more octane than needed and if you ran the right octane you would see huge bottom end gains.
As for the timing, I don't know much but if the stock motor can pull the ho head and timing why f with it. Where the prob comes in is where the PV's open and the pipe temp sensor. I still can't get it varified from a reliable source but to me the pipe sensor effects fuel and timing, and mainly at the rpm right before the PV's open. Now if you can go into the computer and take out the lean spot by lowing the pipe temp sensors required temp (ohm reading) of 1260* to 1150-1200* you could prob eliminate most of the det sensor issue. I could run 10lbs on pg if I held down the throttle but as soon as you let off and hit the PV opererating range the det code would limp and I could only run 6-7lbs on pump. It seemed very clear that the stock motor at wot could handle way more boost on pump, but not the mid range.
The only way I can see doing it is by hacking the ecu and remapping it or using a diff ecu and mapping it.
As for the timing, I don't know much but if the stock motor can pull the ho head and timing why f with it. Where the prob comes in is where the PV's open and the pipe temp sensor. I still can't get it varified from a reliable source but to me the pipe sensor effects fuel and timing, and mainly at the rpm right before the PV's open. Now if you can go into the computer and take out the lean spot by lowing the pipe temp sensors required temp (ohm reading) of 1260* to 1150-1200* you could prob eliminate most of the det sensor issue. I could run 10lbs on pg if I held down the throttle but as soon as you let off and hit the PV opererating range the det code would limp and I could only run 6-7lbs on pump. It seemed very clear that the stock motor at wot could handle way more boost on pump, but not the mid range.
The only way I can see doing it is by hacking the ecu and remapping it or using a diff ecu and mapping it.
91 and 110. I run 40% race fuel. I ride from 7-11k feet. Kit is a OVS Tial kit on a HO M8.
Yes, I added a larger compressor housing at the same time. My sled didn't idle well either. I was able to return both modules without any hassle.
Ok, so you... oh nevermind.
Why does it seem so simple, but people make it so complicated?
Just stick a resistor in place of the Pipe temp sensor..... However I dont think that will resolve the issue...... Sounds like your problem is more of a Accelorator/Decel Fueling issue.... When you let off the throttle it is pulling too much fuel away from the sled... then hits deto....
If you think the Cat does this bad then go try out a Polaris....They are nasty scary when they hit the deto/limp mode....Better not be in a place you need your sled to run.......Lol
If you think the Cat does this bad then go try out a Polaris....They are nasty scary when they hit the deto/limp mode....Better not be in a place you need your sled to run.......Lol
do ya recommend this resistor just to generally eliminate potential problems/issues that arise with the pipe sensor regardless..??
If you put the resistor in, in effect the ecu could keep pulling fuel to hit temp. I still can't get a real answer if the pipe sensor actually runs the fuel and timing or what it does. without knowing I don't want to eliminate it and my test feels like it looses torque (like timing changes) Just need the facts to know what to do.
FYI,
The E-timing module was built to fix the issue with polaris because BD couldn't keep one running, then they pawned it off on cat guys but so far I've heard mixed results.
FYI,
The E-timing module was built to fix the issue with polaris because BD couldn't keep one running, then they pawned it off on cat guys but so far I've heard mixed results.
In speaking to Trav and Garr at OVS, they recommended to take it off and not worry about it since their kit really isn't intended to run under 10-12 lbs of boost. I was interested in trying out the module's for a cost benefit. I honestly didn't give either module a fair test as I didn't keep them on long enough to play with.
Resistor wont make ecu pull fuel or timing if you have the correct resistor in....It will effect the Cold Start mode the ECU is in when the sled is started though.. It usually starts and idles a little high and richer and when it reaches a certain temp it idles down and leans out.....Also, it is telling the ECU it has a constant pipe temp so it locks the ecu on that reading.... Your ecu wont be looking for any temp or making adjustments on this.... FYI If you run a resistor make sure you warm your sled up nicely so you dont cold sieze it...
I also ran a resistor in my air temp sensor on my 07 m8t from OVS....It works great!!!!
I also ran a resistor in my air temp sensor on my 07 m8t from OVS....It works great!!!!
Does the pipe sensor control timing, that is one thing I can't find out for sure. I do know that at WOT if you over 1200* on a m1000 they loose power in a big way. Not sure if thats all fuel or if timing is being pulled.
is the linderman resistor one that you deem safe..??
There is no secret to a resistor.... Just find out the running ohms and match it with a resistor...
I would run Lindermans stuff... He is well studied!
I would run Lindermans stuff... He is well studied!
