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boon docker box setup on a m1000

I have had the sled and box since last december and under stand the basics. Last spring i added a speedwerx pipe and after about 2 minutes at nearly wide open stuck the pto side ring into the piston in three places. it never stuck the piston. Piston was almost all grey. I was using speedwerx box set up with it a couple of steps richer at all the rpm ranges above 5000. I assumed this would get me close and be safe because it was a lot richer than the settings without the pipe. It probably would have been good in the trees all day but it obviosly did not work out in the open. I know lots of guys are running a similar setup and was hopping someone could share their knowledge and save me the hassle. Any help with the Boondocker Box numbers would be greatly appreciated.



o8 m1000 162
sno pro intake
v force reeds
speedwerx y pipe pipe tunnel dump can
stock clutcing with 80 gram weights
bdx diamond drive 59/61

It was running about 7600 rpm. I am planning to go to 83 gram weights and get the rpms down to about 7300
 
Last edited:
You need to know your PSI for the numbers to mean anything.

Also, if you're running without an egt... expect more burn downs.

Hell, let'e be honest, if you have a BD box... expect more burn downs:eek:

We could give you all the numbers in the world, but without the right baseline fuel rail pressure, they may not help, and without proper ability to read your egt or A/f ratios, you aren't able to help yourself.
 
BC I disagree. The BD box works well if used right. The plug/cyl condition are the BEST way to see what is going on in the motor. EGT's are worthless with looking at the plugs or cyl. to verify you #s.

Running wide open for 2 minutes is not wise.

PSI IS GOOD TO KNOW!!!!:D
 
still want to see some boondocker box settings

I realize that all sleds are different and I appreciate the tip about the fuel pressure. I think that a sled with the same setup would be within 10 percent on the box settings. I would like to see what other people are running so I have a place to start.
 
3000...0-0-0, 5000...-2 -3 -2, 6500...-1 -2 0, 7200...0 +3 +6, 7500...0 +4 +6, 7800...0 +4 +6.......nearly the same set-up as you...i ride 7-11k...egt probe is 2" downstream of the junction of the pipe/y-pipe...egts' at wot are about 1325 on a long pull...egts' on a stock set-up average about 1390 degrees...with this amount of fuel i have pulled very long hills in deep powder where the throttle has been wide open or nearly so for as much as 4 minutes with no adverse affects to the engine....with just the speedwerx y-pipe and can, stock pipe, your clutching rpm should be 7250...power peak verified on a dyno at just over 5k elevation combined with much field testing, plug readings and head removal to veryify wash....
 
m1000 box settings

Thanks for the info. I ran the stock pipe most of last year and the only difference between us would be the sno pro air box. When I put the pipe on I ran
3000 00 00 00
5000 00 00 00
6500 05 08 10
7200 03 10 17
7500 04 12 16
7800 14 12 18


accl 08 00 06

these are the settings when I stuck the ring. Maybe the 7600 rpm had something to do with the stuck ring.
 
piston wash m1000

seems like the only pistons I see are either carboned all the way to the edge or gray like what mine look like after something goes wrong. I guess from now on I will tune it so when I pull the power valve I have no wash (all carbon) and just be happy with it a little rich.
 
m1000 box settings

I see what you mean if the outer edge is washed clean that means the fuel is washing the carbon off. so say a quarter inch of the outside of the piston being shiny would be a quarter inch of wash? somewhere along the way the carbon gets cooked off and your left with no wash and all grey indicating the lean condition I had. So to be safe do I try for the outer half of the piston shiny washed and the inner half black carbon. Thanks for the help
 
Thanks for the info. I ran the stock pipe most of last year and the only difference between us would be the sno pro air box. When I put the pipe on I ran
3000 00 00 00
5000 00 00 00
6500 05 08 10
7200 03 10 17
7500 04 12 16
7800 14 12 18


accl 08 00 06

these are the settings when I stuck the ring. Maybe the 7600 rpm had something to do with the stuck ring.

Man those seem like hugh numbers to me. Do you have any idea of your fuel pressure. With those kind of numbers I would guess you are in the 40-42psi range at best.

Don't quote me on this but I think every 2 points of fuel on the box is like adding a full jet size in the old carb tuning methods. So you would be like 9 jet sizes over stock on the top end. That sounds like a huge amount for your mods.

But hey it burned down so something is wrong.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Thunder
 
I ran similar numbers on my 1000 last year. had air box and pipe, with mild porting and rkt heads. Mine were a little lower like -1 and -2 6500 and lower. but just as high up top. 1 psi fuel rail pressure difference from sled to sled does make a difference in numbers. Also it is my understanding that stock mapping kind of flat lined after 7400 so thats why these numbers get so big is you are building a fuel map at 7800 not adjusting one. I may be wrong
 
When sharing and asking for fuel box numbers and clutching info that are going to get you anywhere close, you HAVE to add your typical riding elevation. I don't understand all these post about fuel boxes and clutching on here when the most important data is left out?

Aaron
 
added note to the above....with just a y-pipe and can, no pipe, you should be clutching to 7250...if you're spinning 7600, you're losing track speed and pulling power...even with porting, and full exhaust system, power peaks at 7410 on the dyno at 5k...yeah, i know what sw says, but i don't think their dyno is at 5k....going up in altitude will change it slightly, about 50-70 rpm more above 9500'....
 
m1000 box settings

ok so let me get this straight if I have 40lbs fuel pressure and you have 48lbs then I would run 20% higher numbers on the box to compensate for low fuel pressure? I use the same fuel from the same place in all my sleds so I assume it is not a fuel problem but it does make me suspicios. When the ring stuck it did have a stock head. I do have the bmp 6000 feet and above head now.
I will get the fuel pressure checked so we can eliminate that piece of the puzzle. I will clutch it to run at 7400 rpm. sorry about the lack of elevation I just assume that everybody that rides a sled like this runs at 6500 feet to 10500 feet and mostly at around 8000 feet. Thanks for all the help
 
I run 51psi fuel pressure and as high or higher numbers, I can also tune it to hold temps at wot as long as I want, the sled rips. numbers don't mean anything each sled, fuel, mods, clutching and the list goes, when it comes to setup. Did the sled make a tingy sound like the exhaust springs where vibrating, when the piston went.
 
m1000 box settings

When the ring stuck it was just like I hit the kill switch. No extra sounds. I think I will start at 10% over where I was and be a lot more careful until I know Its on the safe side. It is good to see someone with the confidence to run the motor as hard as you can and not worry about it. Thats what I was doing but with out the homework to back it up. Thanks for the help.\\\\\\
Bozeman Mt got 20 inches today.
 
When the ring stuck it was just like I hit the kill switch. No extra sounds. I think I will start at 10% over where I was and be a lot more careful until I know Its on the safe side. It is good to see someone with the confidence to run the motor as hard as you can and not worry about it. Thats what I was doing but with out the homework to back it up. Thanks for the help.\\\\\\
Bozeman Mt got 20 inches today.

throw in a shot of 110 race fuel to the mix just to make sure it wasn't detonation. Or even some 100LL Av gas. Cheep insurance.

Thunder
 
m1000 box settings

now ya got me spooked if it was some detonation with the stock head then the new high compression head will definitly make it even more picky on the fuel quality and amount. The lean condition probably caused the detonation in conjunction with the bad fuel. But if I am still seeing grey on the plugs and piston I will definitely siphon out the fuel and try a little vp 110 I have left over and see if that is the color difference. Lets hope that lots of good fresh fuel solves both these problems Thanks for the helpl.
 
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