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Blown nytro questions

P

Polaris pride

Member
So I'm looking at buying a blown nytro. 2008 MTX no reverse, MPI stage 2 supercharger, timbersled front and rear,ect. Sled has 1800 miles on it. Seller tells me it blew up while riding it in his front yard. Sled still runs. Does this make any sense to anyone, and what all is likely junk in the motor? He thinks it put a rod out the block, cant imagine it would still run though... Please post, message, email or call me with advice.

Honmotors@hotmail.com
208-880-6439
 
If it runs it didn't put a rod through the block. Should be oil running out the bottom of the sled. What fuel,elevation,boost when it "blew"? What did it do? Stop running stop boosting?
 
Blown up

If the lower end didn't get destroyed your looking at about 5k for new block, piston, misc. parts & labor. Or buy a motor from a wreaked sled for 1800-2500 plus install. He most likely wasn't running enough octane which caused the blow up or just a unfortunate machanical failure. Hope this helps
 
Guy wants 5k for it. I'm thinking it ran on its side, he made it back to the truck and thought he was ok... ran it in his yard and the crank went... I'm not sure. I don't know these too well. I think I will probably stay away from it, but it seems like a good buy.. Any chance a valve broke and went in to the supercharger? Also, I'm only buying it to part it out...

Thanks for all the feedback, could sure loose some more info... from what I can tell, a comparable sled running with no issues is around 10k... I think he wants too much.. Let me know your thoughts... Thanks again.
 
5k seems like A LOT to me for a probably blown up sled, I paid in february so mid winter 7k for an 06 apex with mcx 310 kit on it and a bunch of other stuff really not much wrong with it... some new rivets to be done (thats what happens when you carry 20L of fuel on the back of the tunnel :face-icon-small-sho), its got a crracing hood, intake, and timbersled rear skid, track is garbage, every 2nd lug ripped off.. but i've seen em on and off depending on mods about 8k ish here.. the good ones that are loaded more sell for 10-11k

5364bf85-67cb-4b69-b69e-de23a83433a4_zps8075ebca.jpg
 
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Guy wants 5k for it. I'm thinking it ran on its side, he made it back to the truck and thought he was ok... ran it in his yard and the crank went... I'm not sure. I don't know these too well.

Most likely you are correct. The Nytro motors are pretty durable, but one thing that will kill the bottom end, is oil starvation. Normally what happens is the rod bearings will get damaged first. Then if he runs it "to see if the motor is ok", it will spin a rod bearing. Once the rod bearing is spun, if the owner keeps running it most likely it will pitch the center rod through the block. At that point your looking at a complete engine replacement.

If you catch it right away and don't try and run the motor while its hurt, then the bottom end can be rebuilt. However if it gets to the point where its spinning rod bearings then the cost of repair starts to go up dramatically.

If you decide to buy it and it has a spun rod bearing, but hasn't thrown a rod yet. You'll want to pull the valves and check them for straightness. What can happen is the piston can move higher up in the bore (due to the excessive bearing clearance from the spun bearing) and "kiss" the valves. When this happens it may bend the valve slightly and cause it to hang open. If you don't catch this during your rebuild, the bent valve can hang open allowing the piston to contact it. Once this happens the head of the valve can break off and its game over for your newly rebuilt motor.
 
Most likely you are correct. The Nytro motors are pretty durable, but one thing that will kill the bottom end, is oil starvation. Normally what happens is the rod bearings will get damaged first. Then if he runs it "to see if the motor is ok", it will spin a rod bearing. Once the rod bearing is spun, if the owner keeps running it most likely it will pitch the center rod through the block. At that point your looking at a complete engine replacement.

If you catch it right away and don't try and run the motor while its hurt, then the bottom end can be rebuilt. However if it gets to the point where its spinning rod bearings then the cost of repair starts to go up dramatically.

If you decide to buy it and it has a spun rod bearing, but hasn't thrown a rod yet. You'll want to pull the valves and check them for straightness. What can happen is the piston can move higher up in the bore (due to the excessive bearing clearance from the spun bearing) and "kiss" the valves. When this happens it may bend the valve slightly and cause it to hang open. If you don't catch this during your rebuild, the bent valve can hang open allowing the piston to contact it. Once this happens the head of the valve can break off and its game over for your newly rebuilt motor.

Thanks for your help. I'm gonna stay away from it.
 
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