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Beware of the BDX oil pump delete.

S

scaldedcat

New member
I just wanted to give everyone a heads up.
Before I put the bdx oil pump delete on my 08 m1000 everyone on this site said it was the cats A$$ .Well I can tell you that after 150 miles with the BDX Kit my crank is junk. If I can save some poor bastrd like myself $1400 worth of parts and 30 days of NOT riding I will.
Rode my sled 700 miles with oil pump on and no problems, seemed to use alot of oil. When I saw all the post on here that said the BDX Kits were great I thought what the heck Ill give it a go. Install was easy and lost a couple of pounds. Started premixing gas & oil as instructed. 150 miles later I was getting towed out.
When we tore down the motor it was aparent that the oil-water pump shaft had seized to the bushing on the water pump side of the shaft. It is clearly a lack of oil to that side of the the shaft. When it seized ,the gear that connects the oil shaft to the crank sheared the brass gear on the crank and bent the water pump shaft.I had to put a new crank, water pump shaft,seals ect .
So I e-mailed Mike at BdX and he said this was the 1st time he has heard of anything like this happening. Nice guy but,I talked to my dealer he believes the lack of oil in the case was the reason. I just thought I would share my experience. Now you have heard the pros & cons you decide. Is it worth the weight??
 
On the cats I have looked at there is three oil feeds from the pump,one to each clyd. and one to the gear drive in the center. this center one is basicly a oil bath that any extra oil that flow to it seeps out into the clyd on each side. I just figured they had a oil reservor for the center cavity that you filled every now and then. otherwise like you said it will destroy itself in short order. I would hope they know better.....sure you didn't forgewt something??? Garry
 
I was going to put an oil delete on mine the other day but the crank went out WITH the oil injection that morning.

I think its more than just the delete affecting the 1000's
 
The third line fom the injection pump does pump oil into the cavity but not at any pressure to really talk about. There is no need for high pressure, if it did you would probobly burn alot more oil. Just enough to keep the cavity full from what might seep through the crank seals, which is very little.

There is a simple fix to that problem. After you take the oil injection suff off and have put the new bushing/block plate on, with the sled on its side, put as much injection oil that you can into the cavity through the bolt hole in the bottom of the crank. You should be able to fill it at least half full. That way you still have an oil bath in there for the shaft. Check as often as you feel is nessesary but i would think that once or twice a year would do.:cool:
 
I have seen a number of sleds with the bdx setup & have talked to MANY more, this is only the 2nd time I have heard of a failure that may be related, on the other hand I have had 3 oil pump failures myself, have personally seen a number of others, and know of quite a few more. Sitll looks like a ratio that is in favor of the bdx kit.

btw, there have been a few other crank failures also that didn't have anything to do with the kit as well.

I'm not arguing the point that it MAY have caused this (install issues may also be a cause) I'm just saying that when it comes to sleds it is often a choice between a lesser of two evils, I choose the delete. Btw, I beat the piss out of my sled & have never added oil or grease or anything in 1300 miles now (current 09 1000)
 
SLED HEAD "40 to 1"
TREE MAG "I agree." no I don't think I forgot anything on the install,easy deal"
MONTANA SLED"It happens"
DEVIANT " I know that cranks have gone bad without the BDx kit Did yours seize your water pump bushing also?
ALEX HACK." I do think if a guy pumped a little oil into the case tank or so of fuel it probably work " No one mentioned this when i asked!
BACK COUNTRY " I agree oil mixing most of the time is better" however on the
m 1000 it looks like it would be hard for the oil to get to the water pump side
bushing .

I have head that Speedwerx has some kind of case mod they run with the oil delete kit anyone know of this?
 
I thought I read somewhere that one of the kits had a grease zert on the cover for the shaft. however I do not remember which kit it was or if it was a mod that somebody did on their own.
 
have the delete...but for the heck of it im going to pull my pan off and re-install the banjo in the potential problem area...the water pump/crank gear..with a capped long tube filled with oil...or possibly a grease whip hose adapted to the bottom..with a shot of lubriplate every 50 miles or so

yes speed werx does case mod for theres..and yes there is kit with grease zerk that is eliminated with the oil light bushing with bdx kit
 
This is how we do ours. Drill and tap 6mmx1.0 in the PTO side, use some grease on the drill bit to eliminate shavings in the motor. Prelube the line with oil.
DSC00278.jpg
 
you can pull the cylinders and drill the block from the inside to oil the pump, this is hardley ever done because of the work involved...
 
bdx

I just wanted to give everyone a heads up.
Before I put the bdx oil pump delete on my 08 m1000 everyone on this site said it was the cats A$$ .Well I can tell you that after 150 miles with the BDX Kit my crank is junk. If I can save some poor bastrd like myself $1400 worth of parts and 30 days of NOT riding I will.
Rode my sled 700 miles with oil pump on and no problems, seemed to use alot of oil. When I saw all the post on here that said the BDX Kits were great I thought what the heck Ill give it a go. Install was easy and lost a couple of pounds. Started premixing gas & oil as instructed. 150 miles later I was getting towed out.
When we tore down the motor it was aparent that the oil-water pump shaft had seized to the bushing on the water pump side of the shaft. It is clearly a lack of oil to that side of the the shaft. When it seized ,the gear that connects the oil shaft to the crank sheared the brass gear on the crank and bent the water pump shaft.I had to put a new crank, water pump shaft,seals ect .
So I e-mailed Mike at BdX and he said this was the 1st time he has heard of anything like this happening. Nice guy but,I talked to my dealer he believes the lack of oil in the case was the reason. I just thought I would share my experience. Now you have heard the pros & cons you decide. Is it worth the weight??

i have an 09 m1000 same issuse, talked to bdx first they had heard of this, put oiler back on run a small bottle to crankshaft. save the weight and still premix. { after replacing all the above mentioned parts}
 
Backcontry when you say they fail do they stop lubing and ruin motor or go to full rich???? They are a very simple design and with my luck if there is one that fails I will get it. There are three banjo valves that can fail and if they fail the others starve. Just want to be informed on what to watch for....Thanks
 
This is how we do ours. Drill and tap 6mmx1.0 in the PTO side, use some grease on the drill bit to eliminate shavings in the motor. Prelube the line with oil.
DSC00278.jpg

Thanks for posting that Snowstar. Replacing all my parts after installing the BDX kit. Hope you dont mind me copying that?
 
Backcontry when you say they fail do they stop lubing and ruin motor or go to full rich???? They are a very simple design and with my luck if there is one that fails I will get it. There are three banjo valves that can fail and if they fail the others starve. Just want to be informed on what to watch for....Thanks

It would be nice if they went the other way & the sled just started blubbering, but no, they go lean. You're at idle oil when you hit wfo, bad news. Luckily it has only cost ME a top end each time, no big deal, but it could have been much worse.
 
Where is BDX to reassure or let us know that their kit works and does not need oil to the gear/shaft to live. I have the kit and would hate to loss a crank because it was overlooked on BDX design/part. So BDX chime in give us your engineering/mechanical point of view that your kit is safe and does not need oil to the waterpump shaft/gear assembly. BDX what are you doing or going to do to reassure us that the oil delete kit is safe.
 
This is how we do ours. Drill and tap 6mmx1.0 in the PTO side, use some grease on the drill bit to eliminate shavings in the motor. Prelube the line with oil.
DSC00278.jpg


the banjo on the pto side has a one way check valve..so does the pto side build enough pressure to operate the oneway valve..??..so the excess oil on bottom of crankcase on pto side is just pushed into water pump gear cavity..??..does that cavity build any pressure etc just incase a gravity feed setup is used..there should be no blow back is there..??
 
yes it does you can watch the oil pump through the line at an idel
I have had problems with drilling the case on the m sleds but never with this.
 
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