Which is the better choice?
Long rod or a piston and head kit?
Or long rod with a head possibly?
Long rod or a piston and head kit?
Or long rod with a head possibly?
Better choice?
- Thread starter hanson summit
- Start date
Keep it on topic and clean. Thx
This is a HOTLY debated topic... PLEASE... Lets keep it clean people.
Heads-Up.... I will not hesitate to close the thread if it "goes south" or turns into a "bash session".
Also... If you do not have direct experience with a manufacturer... meaning you yourself have installed the kit or have it in your own personal sled... then please refrain from attacking or promoting a particular kit.
If you have constructive, thought out comments on kits, even if you have not installed one on your sled... I encourage you to talk about it in a rational, constructive manner.
If you sell a certain type of kit (LR/piston-head) ... or install certain types of kits (LR/piston-head) as a business or side-work... OR... install the competitors kits... then please indicate that in your post so that we know.
If you are a manufacturer of a kit, or related to that manufacturer (friend, family, worker-for...etc), then please do not comment on your competitors kit.
If you claim to have installed one kit... had it fail on you... and then installed another brand of kit with good luck... please offer some form of evidence that you actually had the first (failed) kit installed in your sled prior to the different kit being installed.
If your experience is related to another brand of snowmobile with a kit in it (ie. SkiDoo, AC) then please do not comment on this thread that is posted in the Polaris PRO RIDE forum and related ONLY to the DC-CFi-2 engines in the PRO Chassis RMK's.
I don't like to make these kinds of requirements... BUT... I also hate to see things turn into "pizzing matches".
.
.
This is a HOTLY debated topic... PLEASE... Lets keep it clean people.
Heads-Up.... I will not hesitate to close the thread if it "goes south" or turns into a "bash session".
Also... If you do not have direct experience with a manufacturer... meaning you yourself have installed the kit or have it in your own personal sled... then please refrain from attacking or promoting a particular kit.
If you have constructive, thought out comments on kits, even if you have not installed one on your sled... I encourage you to talk about it in a rational, constructive manner.
If you sell a certain type of kit (LR/piston-head) ... or install certain types of kits (LR/piston-head) as a business or side-work... OR... install the competitors kits... then please indicate that in your post so that we know.
If you are a manufacturer of a kit, or related to that manufacturer (friend, family, worker-for...etc), then please do not comment on your competitors kit.
If you claim to have installed one kit... had it fail on you... and then installed another brand of kit with good luck... please offer some form of evidence that you actually had the first (failed) kit installed in your sled prior to the different kit being installed.
If your experience is related to another brand of snowmobile with a kit in it (ie. SkiDoo, AC) then please do not comment on this thread that is posted in the Polaris PRO RIDE forum and related ONLY to the DC-CFi-2 engines in the PRO Chassis RMK's.
I don't like to make these kinds of requirements... BUT... I also hate to see things turn into "pizzing matches".
.
.
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So basically no one talk. Ready, go!
LOL ... not at all ICR...
Keep it clean.. comment on direct experience or sound/solid engineering commentary... and keep it rational with no bashing.
Simple.
.
Keep it clean.. comment on direct experience or sound/solid engineering commentary... and keep it rational with no bashing.
Simple.
.
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As far as which is "better". There is not one right answer. All you can really do is compare pricing and warranty between both kinds, talk to a few people and even the manufacturer's directly. Lots of happy customers both ways. I went LR mostly for warranty.
I personally run a long rod.
There have been positive results with either upgrade.
It is more of a personal choice. One thing to remember, you must feel comfortable with the vendor you choose. Having a vendor that's available to answer any tuning questions you may have is paramount.
The long rod upgrade encompasses a little more disassembly and down time compared to the piston kits.
There are more piston kit vendors available than long rod vendors.
I'm sure you will be happy with either trail you go down.
One thing to consider are the 2014 stock pistons.
Eric, I wish you well.
Vendors please refrain from posting here. Please PM possible clients or questions they may have. Thank you for that consideration.
There have been positive results with either upgrade.
It is more of a personal choice. One thing to remember, you must feel comfortable with the vendor you choose. Having a vendor that's available to answer any tuning questions you may have is paramount.
The long rod upgrade encompasses a little more disassembly and down time compared to the piston kits.
There are more piston kit vendors available than long rod vendors.
I'm sure you will be happy with either trail you go down.
One thing to consider are the 2014 stock pistons.
Eric, I wish you well.
Vendors please refrain from posting here. Please PM possible clients or questions they may have. Thank you for that consideration.
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Piston part numbers were changed in 2014.... and used on 2014 and, at least according to the parts fiche, for the 2015 season on the RMK's.
I've seen no side by side comparisons of the pre-2014 DC-CFi pistons and the 14/15's (hint hint)
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I've seen no side by side comparisons of the pre-2014 DC-CFi pistons and the 14/15's (hint hint)
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The 14 + piston kits have better rings. Pistons aren't changed.
I put 14 pistons in my 12 motor at the beginning of the season and did not notice nearly as much ring flaking as my 2012 pistons had.
I did a complete ID long rod for the price and warranty. I threw a skirt through my bottom case and at that time Dan was offering a complete LR for $2500 with a 3 year warranty.
You didn't tell us what year you are working on or why you are doing the work, that would help. Personally if I had a solid motor I don't think I would spend the money for a LR, I believe there are top end options that work.
You didn't tell us what year you are working on or why you are doing the work, that would help. Personally if I had a solid motor I don't think I would spend the money for a LR, I believe there are top end options that work.
Ya sorry about that.
2013 Pro 800.
Just lookin for more reliability with a little extra snort.
Been a solid motor so far so maybe should just do some top end work and I'll prolly be happy with it.
2013 Pro 800.
Just lookin for more reliability with a little extra snort.
Been a solid motor so far so maybe should just do some top end work and I'll prolly be happy with it.
858
I am opting for an 858 kit on my 11 rebuild this year. I was disappointed that there were no summer special on them. That deal Dan ran on LR was a pretty good deal. I don't know if he has any specials this year, but it is worth asking.
I am opting for an 858 kit on my 11 rebuild this year. I was disappointed that there were no summer special on them. That deal Dan ran on LR was a pretty good deal. I don't know if he has any specials this year, but it is worth asking.
I put a Par long rod kit in my wife's sled last summer and ran it all year without any problems. The vibration is at least half of what is was stock, I would imagine that has to be better for the motor.
And I did a Par 910, which also is long rodded, my 910 I have ran two complete season and have had no engine issues. Tuning was good to start but now it's great. I love my sled, especially after I have traded with a stocker for awhile to let him try it
Have a friend with a stock '12 motor and clutching and a can. And his motor has not had any problems. I believe 2000+ miles
I think if you try and do a little preventive maintenance and let the sled warm up before you just take off the motors are really not bad. There will always be the lemon, I understand, whatever you choose to do make sure to ask pleanty of questions with the dealer and keep up on your research
And I did a Par 910, which also is long rodded, my 910 I have ran two complete season and have had no engine issues. Tuning was good to start but now it's great. I love my sled, especially after I have traded with a stocker for awhile to let him try it
Have a friend with a stock '12 motor and clutching and a can. And his motor has not had any problems. I believe 2000+ miles
I think if you try and do a little preventive maintenance and let the sled warm up before you just take off the motors are really not bad. There will always be the lemon, I understand, whatever you choose to do make sure to ask pleanty of questions with the dealer and keep up on your research
I have not ridden a "fix kit" equipped sled so I have no experience or opinion there but I'm very happy with my long rod motor. I had the PAR kit installed on a well running '12 800 at 2,300 miles. Sled pulls harder throughout the power band with far less vibration than stock.
I will LR any 11-14 800 Pro I might own in the future
I will LR any 11-14 800 Pro I might own in the future
I've move the question of crankshaft durability and replies into their own thread.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=376472
Lets not turn this into a pizzin match about belts and crankshafts... this is a thread about engine kits...Please lets keep it that way.
Thanks,
MH
.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=376472
Lets not turn this into a pizzin match about belts and crankshafts... this is a thread about engine kits...Please lets keep it that way.
Thanks,
MH
.
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MH,
My response was on topic. I made no mention of cranks or belts and now my response to this thread is way out of context in the other thread.
...and now I look like a bigger idiot than usual.
Like I need help with that
D*ck...
My response was on topic. I made no mention of cranks or belts and now my response to this thread is way out of context in the other thread.
...and now I look like a bigger idiot than usual.
Like I need help with that
D*ck...
Forth Wolf..
Sorry MY bad... I moved yours with the others as a group by mistake... when it should have stayed here... kind of d*ck move, I agree... but not intentional.
I've just put your post back here
Thank you for keeping me on my toes.
Sorry MY bad... I moved yours with the others as a group by mistake... when it should have stayed here... kind of d*ck move, I agree... but not intentional.
I've just put your post back here
Thank you for keeping me on my toes.
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G
geo
Well-known member
I`ll have a 1000 mile report on MNTKT pistons (installed clearance to after). Probably not necessary but I`d like to get it out soon. Plan on checking the crank (2700 miles total) and more maybe lol. Still learning this motor so I`ll do my own quality assurance check.
Trouble is, in the summer I like to ride the bike if free time is around lol. So, like usual for me, I`ll probably gather parts in Aug. and start in Oct. lol.
One thing about these "which kit" threads that seems to always be missing is #'s. It would be nice to get some facts on measurement differences with miles attached. Be nice to know if other changes were made at time of installation too. Things like fuel, oil, or aftermarket parts installed.
Objective info as compared to subjective.
My stock pistons on my '13 were just fine after 1700 miles (no before measurement but 6ish thou. clearance at disassembly) skirt clearance wise, but my rings and lands were shot from very poor chamfer on my cylinder ports. Wouldn't have been long until the lack of ring seal would have started the skirt collapse issue.
I added oil and fuel from the beginning (very important for this version of the CFI IMO) and later the important TRS thermo mod (very similar to the HO motor, eh lol) as well as a not so important pipe but with a proper compression head.
I believe all of the above are helping my motor along to a long life.
Trouble is, in the summer I like to ride the bike if free time is around lol. So, like usual for me, I`ll probably gather parts in Aug. and start in Oct. lol.
One thing about these "which kit" threads that seems to always be missing is #'s. It would be nice to get some facts on measurement differences with miles attached. Be nice to know if other changes were made at time of installation too. Things like fuel, oil, or aftermarket parts installed.
Objective info as compared to subjective.
My stock pistons on my '13 were just fine after 1700 miles (no before measurement but 6ish thou. clearance at disassembly) skirt clearance wise, but my rings and lands were shot from very poor chamfer on my cylinder ports. Wouldn't have been long until the lack of ring seal would have started the skirt collapse issue.
I added oil and fuel from the beginning (very important for this version of the CFI IMO) and later the important TRS thermo mod (very similar to the HO motor, eh lol) as well as a not so important pipe but with a proper compression head.
I believe all of the above are helping my motor along to a long life.
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