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Best way to remove the coolant?

Y

yz400ex

Well-known member
I am going to be rebuilding the top end of my sled.. have all the parts, now just need to find the time.. I am going to be leaving the motor in place and just removing whats needed to make this quick and easy (not so sure on the quick or easy part :)). I am wanting to make sure I get all the fluids removed enough that when I pull the head and cylinders there is none that drops down into the bottom end of this motor.. What do you guys recommend to avoid this happening?:face-icon-small-ton
 
BigDawg suggested pulling the hose off down behind the muffler and then pulling the cap off the reservoir, once its done draining use a shop vac to get out all the fluid that's left in the engine

what sled are you rebuilding?? if its an 05 900 you can do the top end without pulling but have been told if its an 06 you need to pull the motor
 
Well I have a hand pump type thing which will go into the hose and suction in out instead of the shop vac idea, but thanks for the info on that.. I havent really looked to see which hose is the easiest to get at.. I only have 05 900's so I wont be pulling the motor which I am thankful for.. Dont have the time right now.. Maybe a summer project..:sun:
 
I duct taped a 18" long section of fuel line to the end of my shop vac hose. Just like going to the dentist just sucks it all out even the nookes and crannies. Put the fuel line right down into the coolant bottle hole and sucked out everything above the head line. Then you can poke the skinny little hose down around the jugs to get the rest out after you've pulled the head. Pretty clean way to tear down and not get the sticky green flood.
 
Well I have a hand pump type thing which will go into the hose and suction in out instead of the shop vac idea, but thanks for the info on that.. I havent really looked to see which hose is the easiest to get at.. I only have 05 900's so I wont be pulling the motor which I am thankful for.. Dont have the time right now.. Maybe a summer project..:sun:
Are you changing to updated '06 pistons? If so, it's a gamble. I can tell you from first hand experience, I thought "well it'll make it for the season" I only had 746 total miles when I bought it, and she popped at 1735. The mag piston skirt blew apart, and I was going to update it this summer. I'm not triin to curse you, but triin to save you extra work. I had to pull the motor do to crap falling in the crank area. If your just updating do to low #'s on the compression gage, take the time and fix it, you won't be sorry. I regret not doing it myself. A shop vac works great, stick the hose in and wrap a rag around the hose to get the most vacume and you won't even see anything in yer jugs!
 
I duct taped a 18" long section of fuel line to the end of my shop vac hose. Just like going to the dentist just sucks it all out even the nookes and crannies. Put the fuel line right down into the coolant bottle hole and sucked out everything above the head line. Then you can poke the skinny little hose down around the jugs to get the rest out after you've pulled the head. Pretty clean way to tear down and not get the sticky green flood.

Thanks.. Thats a great idea!!!

Are you changing to updated '06 pistons? If so, it's a gamble. I can tell you from first hand experience, I thought "well it'll make it for the season" I only had 746 total miles when I bought it, and she popped at 1735. The mag piston skirt blew apart, and I was going to update it this summer. I'm not triin to curse you, but triin to save you extra work. I had to pull the motor do to crap falling in the crank area. If your just updating do to low #'s on the compression gage, take the time and fix it, you won't be sorry. I regret not doing it myself. A shop vac works great, stick the hose in and wrap a rag around the hose to get the most vacume and you won't even see anything in yer jugs!

I am changing out the pistons.. they had been updated to the 06 a long time ago and will be 06 pistons again.. The compression is just low so I am give it a refresh while I am out with a knee injury and giving it time to heal.. I have checked the cylinders through the exhaust ports and everything is in good shape and working order.. If not, I have new cylinders, crank case.. everything I need to get it up and running again.. I am pretty confident I will be fine with just a top end at this point in time though..Sled still runs awesome even with have 3K + miles on this engine after last rebuild and low compression #'s.. Its just time to give it some of its life back..:face-icon-small-hap
 
while I am out with a knee injury and giving it time to heal..

WHAT???

we are suppose to give the knee time to heal??

i was installing my ZBROZ a-arms the same night after my knee surgery...it sucked bigtime, lol...

and now i had the bright idea to go snowboarding on sat and biffed it big time and heard the knee go..."POP"..it SUUUUCCCKKKKEEEDD...but i managed to make it down the hill about 5x after that...but couldnt walk to the truck...

i figured they will just fix it when they do the ACL in april...yeh yeh..im an idiot...or a warrior ;)

anyways...i just stick my shop vac in the coolant bottle and suck it out...remove head and jugs..and do a similar deal to F-Bombs after that...been great...

my knee hurts now :(
 
Sean you consistently crack me up

I prefer the "pull the hoses off and run from the green puddle" method lol, I don't have a shop vac:face-icon-small-hap

Dan

Yup, that's the way I like to do it and let the neighbors yappy dog drink the green puddle. Just kidding, I use a drain pan and soaker pads.
 
Yup, that's the way I like to do it and let the neighbors yappy dog drink the green puddle. Just kidding, I use a drain pan and soaker pads.

I thought that's what the big beast I met at your house was for Ken, to keep the neighbors dogs away lol.
 
We have been using the shop vac method for years now. Have a garage sale special one in the corner just for such jobs. No more green mess in the motor and belly pans.
 
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