Best Turbo Air Box Design, Resolving Boondocker AirBox Design Flaw
- Thread starter akholland
- Start date
Can't you tune your mag and pto cylinder separately on you BD box. I know mine can.
B
Boyko
Well-known member
Is this the tube thing air box your talking about?
What a Simple clean design!
what holds it on?
A
akholland
Member
I was wrong about the boondocker airbox, I think
. I ended up installing my power commander 5 box on top of the bd Turbo box. I leaned out the problem cylinder with pcv and it just switched to fouling the other cylinder. That seems to disprove my bad air box theory. I have had this Turbo on two different 09 m1000 sleds and both had the same issue. It bogs bad and won't go above 6300 rpm Very easily. However when you kill it and start it again, for the first grab on the throttle it has no hesitation or bog whatsoever. Totally confused. Tried playing with every fuel setting fat and lean and here was my best numbers.
3000 0 0 0
4500 ~3, ~7, 0
Psi 0 3 25
0~3000ft
PG Turbo 09 m1000
. I ended up installing my power commander 5 box on top of the bd Turbo box. I leaned out the problem cylinder with pcv and it just switched to fouling the other cylinder. That seems to disprove my bad air box theory. I have had this Turbo on two different 09 m1000 sleds and both had the same issue. It bogs bad and won't go above 6300 rpm Very easily. However when you kill it and start it again, for the first grab on the throttle it has no hesitation or bog whatsoever. Totally confused. Tried playing with every fuel setting fat and lean and here was my best numbers.
3000 0 0 0
4500 ~3, ~7, 0
Psi 0 3 25
0~3000ft
PG Turbo 09 m1000
H
hatchers
Well-known member
Like most content on snowest, this thread topic is bad information in respect to simple eng design and theories.
To suggest a side inlet supply airbox flows more air to one cylinder vs the other is silly in my mind. Lets keep it simple bros, the void inbetween the turbo compressor wheel and each cylinder is pressured up to whatever boost level you're running, thus its all more less equal velocity/flow/mass etc etc etc...seriously, its not a rocket ship, just a simple 2 smoke eng with $5 of OEM instamentation and control with a simple turbo kit.
To suggest a side inlet supply airbox flows more air to one cylinder vs the other is silly in my mind. Lets keep it simple bros, the void inbetween the turbo compressor wheel and each cylinder is pressured up to whatever boost level you're running, thus its all more less equal velocity/flow/mass etc etc etc...seriously, its not a rocket ship, just a simple 2 smoke eng with $5 of OEM instamentation and control with a simple turbo kit.
Boost pressure? Fuel pressure?
Looks much leaner than my setup. Same bog problem.
-09 PG CF1000 5.8psi 0-3000ft
This is true to a point. Once under boost, your airbox/plenum design can have little effect on how it runs. But the place where a better design will help is before boost and/or on-and-off the throttle transitions. which is where most sleds run. yes in simple terms,a motor is a simple air pump, so with that theory, then anything you can do to help the air flow, in return should help create more power. an design can be made to run, with simple tuning of the fuel system. but a better design will be much easier to tune.
Keeping it simple, the more consistant you can get your air to flow, the more consistant it will run. if plenum design didnt matter, there would not be so much money and time spent on different designs.
As for your problem. Were you running the same fuel box on the other sleds when you tested the kit? If so, I would say that it could be in the initial setup of the fuel box, or maybe there is a bad sensor that is giveing bad signalsor you have somehow hooked something up incorrectly.Either some plumbing or wireing could be off. I would say it is related to fuel control.
One way to test this theory, is to eliminate the boondocker box and setup the PCV(sounds like you already know how to setup the PCV and have ) and try running low boost and see how it runs. then if you get it running good on low boost, you cn get the module setup from Dakota Performance, so You can run the extra injectors. If you pulled fuel from the side that was fouling and now the other side is fouling, then that tells me that you are way too rich to start with on both sides.
You could just try and tune the BD box, I have found that on their older kits, the numbers they gave were on the rich side, for safety reasons I am sure.
A
akholland
Member
Yea I had the same bd turbo fuel box on both sleds.
This last ride out though it did something totally different. I dont have a bog anymore but now I am at 80% on my PSI high instead of 25% and it's still getting hot on the egt when wide open for over 10 seconds or longer. I also only put 2gallons of avgas to 8 premium which is real low for 3k feet but AV seems to kill the throttle response. I think I have a kink in my air line going to the regulator in the fuel pump..I will be buying a fuel pressure regulator and gauge next.
that and I broke another helix!.. going to try the Dalton cr36 46 that I found on ebay. Im getting 7850 with the 85g heavy tip D&D weights. I think I need heavier weights.
This last ride out though it did something totally different. I dont have a bog anymore but now I am at 80% on my PSI high instead of 25% and it's still getting hot on the egt when wide open for over 10 seconds or longer. I also only put 2gallons of avgas to 8 premium which is real low for 3k feet but AV seems to kill the throttle response. I think I have a kink in my air line going to the regulator in the fuel pump..I will be buying a fuel pressure regulator and gauge next.
that and I broke another helix!.. going to try the Dalton cr36 46 that I found on ebay. Im getting 7850 with the 85g heavy tip D&D weights. I think I need heavier weights.
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