If you bought a new RMK.... 1. Balance Clutch- IndyDan 2. Install a better piston or RKT top end... OR run it 1500 miles with a balanced clutch and then newer and better top.(Which top?) Cost: How much for clutch balance. How much for pistons, gasket?
Best to do to new RMK.
- Thread starter Texasron
- Start date
Gas, oil, gas, oil. Then trade it for a 15 next year
J
Jkinzer
Well-known member
clutch balancing helps but wont be a noticeable difference. the best bang for the buck off the get go would be the rk tek drop in kit, or if you like to ride trees,boondock,climb the camo X3 track is a BIG performance gain over stock and you can still keep your warranty that way as well
V
volcano buster
Well-known member
What recommended setups do you have for installing a camo X3 on a stock displacement 800? I know you have the 858 which seems impressive, just curious if you have found that a more stock engine will pull the 3" track well enough? Not doubting that it will, but your experience please.
Best thing to do to a 14 pro is put gas and oil in it and ride it. If it has warranty you don't need to do those things. You don't need your oiler turned up with warranty imo. If you send your clutches out you won't have a sled to ride. They are the bomb right out of the box. Could they be better? What couldn't. If you are dying to spend money put a 3 inch on it. If you have to have more power do an 858 or turbo. Better shocks are always a plus. What you do should be determined by what you think you have to have, how much you want to spend and how long you want to keep the sled. You shouldn't tear a new motor down based on a few things you hear on here trying to make something more reliable that hasn't been proved unreliable. I guess I havn't heard anything too bad about the 13-14's. It has been more the 11-12. Remember, you only hear the bad and not the 1000 good ones.
What are your priorities?
If your riding style and abilities fall in the average range like most of us then keep it serviced and ride it. Same thing if you're looking at upgrading next year--why dump money into mods that don't affect loan value?
If you're looking at long term motor longevity because you tend to keep your sleds for 3-4-5 years (and up), then consider either a piston kit or a long rod conversion. I chose the LR for my '12. Haven't logged a mile yet since Alaska's winter is vacationing on the east coast this season (but at least I'm not bitter)
I put myself in the 60th percentile range ability-wise--somewhat better than average. I can carve at will, tree ride fairly technical lines, sidehill with confidence but my downhill turns need work. I really like climbing hills on more challenging lines than the usual point-and-shoots.
I also tend to keep my sleds for several years. '16 will probably be my next new sled. I turned my oiler up, followed my break-in protocols and always let my sled come to temp before riding.
Last year I had my local sled guru install his clutch package which really smoothed out the backshift and gave me more midrange snap. $325
After 2285 flawless miles it was due for a top-end and based on the solid reputation of the LR and the guy doing the work, I opted for the LR conversion and a PAR 12.5:1 head. Final bill came to just over $2,500 but it also included a general servicing/inspection.
If your riding style and abilities fall in the average range like most of us then keep it serviced and ride it. Same thing if you're looking at upgrading next year--why dump money into mods that don't affect loan value?
If you're looking at long term motor longevity because you tend to keep your sleds for 3-4-5 years (and up), then consider either a piston kit or a long rod conversion. I chose the LR for my '12. Haven't logged a mile yet since Alaska's winter is vacationing on the east coast this season (but at least I'm not bitter)
I put myself in the 60th percentile range ability-wise--somewhat better than average. I can carve at will, tree ride fairly technical lines, sidehill with confidence but my downhill turns need work. I really like climbing hills on more challenging lines than the usual point-and-shoots.
I also tend to keep my sleds for several years. '16 will probably be my next new sled. I turned my oiler up, followed my break-in protocols and always let my sled come to temp before riding.
Last year I had my local sled guru install his clutch package which really smoothed out the backshift and gave me more midrange snap. $325
After 2285 flawless miles it was due for a top-end and based on the solid reputation of the LR and the guy doing the work, I opted for the LR conversion and a PAR 12.5:1 head. Final bill came to just over $2,500 but it also included a general servicing/inspection.
N
newtrout
Well-known member
This.
THANK YOU!
Back to topic........what he said^^^
But seriously, better clutching (different weights & springs) and a well set-up suspension are easy things to make it just a hair better. Maybe a TEAM Tied clutch or the 3" track if you wanna spend more money, maybe an aftermarket suspension setup. Like terry said, if you've got warranty and aren't gonna modify it and void that warranty, leave the engine alone and save your money.
R
rmscustom
Well-known member
If I were to buy a 14 I would gear down, set up clutches for the elevation I ride and have somebody like indy dan balance them. Then ride the piss out of it and check cylinder to piston clearance after 1500 miles and then decide on a top end if needed.
Oh and turn up the oiler before I rode it and run only legend. And revalve shocks to your weight and style.
Oh and turn up the oiler before I rode it and run only legend. And revalve shocks to your weight and style.
Last edited:
J
jbunce
Well-known member
I asked the same thing when I got mine last year. Best advice I received was ride it. I was all about what can I do to the sled without turbo or doing a big bore and blew thousands on previous sleds. Now that I have learned a few things and honed my riding my opinion has changed. The walker evans suck upgrade your shocks it will make a huge difference. If you have money burning a hole in your pocket look at doing some motor work other wise just ride it. Im looking a turbo for next year just because but the sleds a blast to ride stock so I wouldn't be to worried about spending money unless it was on suspension the most overlooked thing.
I have always modded my sleds, my 11pro had turbo ect ect, now on my 14 I did the team tied,( it was not needed I just wanted to try one) shocks for my weight, set oiler at 38:1 and I ride the crap out of it with ZERO worries, it will in fact go anywhere my turbo at 13 psi would go, just not as fast/impressive.
Unless you just want to have more power I would not touch the motor at all, yes more power is ALWAYS nice but anymore with these new sleds its not needed. Likewise the aftermarket suspentions, the stock suspention with proper shock valveing is damn near perfect.
Unless you just want to have more power I would not touch the motor at all, yes more power is ALWAYS nice but anymore with these new sleds its not needed. Likewise the aftermarket suspentions, the stock suspention with proper shock valveing is damn near perfect.
Buy 4 year warranty and don't touch it.
R
R_8_N
Well-known member
If you're gonna mod a pro buy a used one and you'll have all that extra money to put into it to make it better than stock and when its all done you'll probably still be into it less than what a brand new one is. Lots of used 14s with under 300 miles for thousands under the cost of new.
J
Jkinzer
Well-known member
i ran my 3" on my sled for two rides before we put the 858 kit in. The stock motor has no problem pulling the track. quite a few guys on here are still under the impression that the X3 is a heavy track, the old 3" was yes, but the new one is actually lighter than the stock polaris track. less rotating mass and more hook up is a win win. We run different helix's in our stock sleds for better back shift, but other than all clutching can remain the same with the track swap. This track is by far the best bang for the buck performance gain. it's amazing how much better these sleds work when they are hooking up all the time instead of spinning
i ran my 3" on my sled for two rides before we put the 858 kit in. The stock motor has no problem pulling the track. quite a few guys on here are still under the impression that the X3 is a heavy track, the old 3" was yes, but the new one is actually lighter than the stock polaris track. less rotating mass and more hook up is a win win. We run different helix's in our stock sleds for better back shift, but other than all clutching can remain the same with the track swap. This track is by far the best bang for the buck performance gain. it's amazing how much better these sleds work when they are hooking up all the time instead of spinning
I could be wrong here but the X3 has to be heavier than the stock track. There's no way it can be lighter being fully clipped, 3", and no center ports. Don't get me wrong I love my 3" and is probably my favorite mod on my sled but is still 7-10lbs heavier than stock
A
ak
Well-known member
X2 it's not lighter than the 5.1 maybe the comp track.
Similar threads
