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Best shop to buy rails from?

Anyone running the 9'' wheels? wondering if it helps roll better? Also hope that stock axle holds up

I'm rolling 9's on all my EZ-Rydes, Using some old PEM axles I had on the shelf (I could use a few more if someone has a few they want to sell). Yes they do help things roll easier (if using a large driver as well, otherwise it is just eye candy / bling). *****NOTE: Track tension should still be at Polaris spec to keep the lugs perpendicular to the snow and not folding over.******
 
Ok thank you! I know id have to keep the same tension. I wish i woulda had enough for extroverts. Going to also move the frt bolts to the upper hole. Thanks for the help guys!
 
Something to consider... rails are a helluva lot cheaper than a bent tunnel and the Pro has a rather weak tunnel. There is no fricken way I ever put Bomber rails on my Pro. If it were me, I'd find a used set of stock rails and call it good.

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
Something to consider... rails are a helluva lot cheaper than a bent tunnel and the Pro has a rather weak tunnel. There is no fricken way I ever put Bomber rails on my Pro. If it were me, I'd find a used set of stock rails and call it good.

Have FUN!

G MAN

The problem with that is that the stockers are nearly $600 from Babbitts. For that money I'll take Ice Age rails - the regular ones. I agree with the tunnel, so a good rear suspension package could really help. My X1's sure feel good!
 
Something to consider... rails are a helluva lot cheaper than a bent tunnel and the Pro has a rather weak tunnel. There is no fricken way I ever put Bomber rails on my Pro. If it were me, I'd find a used set of stock rails and call it good.

Have FUN!

G MAN

Stronger rails bends tunnels?
 
The sad thing is for under $100 you can buy a 4'x8' sheet of 0.060" 6061 T-6 aluminum and replace the weak 0.060" 5052 aluminum tunnel sides of two likely three sleds and never have to worry about buckling the tunnel sides again, with no weight penalty! The factory uses the 5052 aluminum because it forms easier and is fractionally cheaper, but using large radius dies in the press brake and the running board flange is very doable in the 6061 T-6. If you want a little more insurance, double the bottom running board flange and run it forward all the way to the bulkhead, catching both rear suspension mounting points and sandwiching the extruded boards, top and bottom. If you do this, it will not crumple like the stock tunnel does. Near bullet proof and as you are losing the small steel suspension mounts in favor of a one piece aluminum doubler, essentially no weight gain.

For what it's worth
 
The sad thing is for under $100 you can buy a 4'x8' sheet of 0.060" 6061 T-6 aluminum and replace the weak 0.060" 5052 aluminum tunnel sides of two likely three sleds and never have to worry about buckling the tunnel sides again, with no weight penalty! The factory uses the 5052 aluminum because it forms easier and is fractionally cheaper, but using large radius dies in the press brake and the running board flange is very doable in the 6061 T-6. If you want a little more insurance, double the bottom running board flange and run it forward all the way to the bulkhead, catching both rear suspension mounting points and sandwiching the extruded boards, top and bottom. If you do this, it will not crumple like the stock tunnel does. Near bullet proof and as you are losing the small steel suspension mounts in favor of a one piece aluminum doubler, essentially no weight gain.

For what it's worth

Agreed 100% my tunnel sides are doubled and even if I gained a pound or two it was definitely worth it, last season was my first season to make it through without folding a tunnel since 2010.
 
I think he trying to say he would rather the rails fail first saving the tunnel. Guessing he is basing this on a hard landing or something...

That's the way I understood him as well. And I think it is a great question to ask:

Would/will stronger rails transmit more force to the tunnel before failing?
 
Here's my 2cents about everything already brought up:

-Yes Ice Age is practically the only company making aftermarket rails.

-Are they worth the $$....YES (especially once you price out the stock rails!!)

-Will the Bomber rails (strong ones) bend your tunnel...NO (I've been hitting 150'+ jumps and 80'+ cliffs for 3 years on every pro from 11-13 with 0 tunnel failures)

-Do you have to run 8" wheels...NO, Ice Age recommends them, but I've only ever used the stock wheels with 0 issues

-Does it suck that the wait is long right now...YES lol but it seems like every aftermarket company is in the same boat this time of year. It's like day before xmas shopping :)

-Whats your other option...Buy a complete take off skid for around $450 in the classifieds, but then again it's still stock rails :(

Hope this helps!
 
Buy a set of used or something for that first ride, resell them when you get yours. I have always been able to sell stock takeoff rails for more than Iceage rails, not sure why other than some folks like stock. I have had two sets of Iceage, hated the ones on my SnoPro, I had to modify the crap out of them make them work, the ones on my IQR were fine.
 
That's the way I understood him as well. And I think it is a great question to ask:

Would/will stronger rails transmit more force to the tunnel before failing?

That is exactly what I meant. My discussion with Ice Age last year confirmed that my question was not only valid... "but probably a good idea for the 2011 with the weaker bracing". They suggested standard rails for the 2011 to me if I'm not so smooth of a jumper (awkward landings) or get better bracing. They've done some tunnels and it's a major PITA is what they told me.

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
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I got a 2012 dono if it applys with the weak tunnel thing but im prepared lol over a turn of events i got a 08 rmk 600.

Putting modrod running boards on mine this weekend! Gayest part is they dont have holes pre drilled them cheap bastards.
 
Just setup my rear skid with Ice Age rails and my X1's! Looks sweet. Weighs in at 44.6 lbs with the X1's. I added the Ice Storm scratchers for cooling. The install was mostly smooth. I did have to drill out holes for the rear secondary brace. Not sure why Ice Age doesn't have those already at the right size unless the smaller hole is needed for other years of the Pro.

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post another pic lol should make this the official rail thread. I found a couple bars from an old txl skid and added them to my assault skid. the more the marrier. ! Has anyone added bracing to the sides of the rails to where it tips up? I Know the skidoo rails were weak and would kink up if you landed tail heavy
 
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