Looks like Avid makes a nice one? Any others, anyone with real world experience?
Best Rolled Chaincase for PRO?
- Thread starter Mr. Pump Gas
- Start date
CMX belt drive?
I second the cmx belt drive ran it 90 percent of the winter not one problem! A perfect setup into opinion
C3 belt drive w/Avid case
I've looked into the CMX and the Avid / C3 and here are my thoughts. I won't do the CMX because his lowest ratio is 2.14:1 which while marginally lower that stock is not low enough to actually use the clutches efficiently. Also neither are long enough to run a 9 tooth with a 3" Pitch x 3" paddle (I personally refuse to run the new fad tiny 7 Tooth drivers).
I have decided to go out and make my own. Raising the tunnel top about 3/4" to offset the heat exchanger intrusion and pushing the drive shaft down and back also. Using C3 gears and tensioner with the off the shelf Gates Carbon belt. '13 PRO Jackshaft and '13 PRO drive shaft with the blank stub end removed and another splined stub installed in its place. Brake relocated to under the driven clutch, as the new center to center will allow it. Formed black UHMW skid plates under the lower sprocket and the brake on the opposite side. Geared to 2.52:1 which is the lowest ratio C3 has for Polaris to my knowledge.
Going to be a fun summer / fall / winter to see this thru and test it out.
I have decided to go out and make my own. Raising the tunnel top about 3/4" to offset the heat exchanger intrusion and pushing the drive shaft down and back also. Using C3 gears and tensioner with the off the shelf Gates Carbon belt. '13 PRO Jackshaft and '13 PRO drive shaft with the blank stub end removed and another splined stub installed in its place. Brake relocated to under the driven clutch, as the new center to center will allow it. Formed black UHMW skid plates under the lower sprocket and the brake on the opposite side. Geared to 2.52:1 which is the lowest ratio C3 has for Polaris to my knowledge.
Going to be a fun summer / fall / winter to see this thru and test it out.
S
skidder
New member
I just installed an avid drop and rolled chaincase in my 2013 pro boondocker turbo. rode it today for the first time and loved it. The quick drive will not stand up to any kind of heat. Thats the biggest reason i switched to the chaincase. i also like that i can run the 3" with 8 tooths now as the 7 tooths i feel are too tight a wrap on the front. the differnce in rolling resistance is crazy. It never changed the handling of the sled enough for me to feel it in the seat of the pants at all. Avid has a really nice kit for the install was a breeze.
* How much drop down and how much back do these D and R kits get you?
* What does the drive and driven shaft center to center start with and end up at when you do one of these kits.
* And are they only for the pro without a front heat exchanger or can you get the 3" track in with the big drivers on the std rmk with heat exchanger.
* What does the drive and driven shaft center to center start with and end up at when you do one of these kits.
* And are they only for the pro without a front heat exchanger or can you get the 3" track in with the big drivers on the std rmk with heat exchanger.
drop@roll
Did you move your rear suspension back accordingly or leave it in the stock location?
Did you move your rear suspension back accordingly or leave it in the stock location?
H
Hairy Mark
Well-known member
you have to move the suspension back an inch or the rails hit the drivers.
I don't know about the stock skid but of you use a k mod or mt tamer you just run an anti stab wheel on the from instead of the rubber ends. And mount the skid in the original mounting locations for mt tamer. And with k mod the front arm bolts into the regular spot and the rear arm comes with a template and you move the hole about an inch on the drop bracket.
