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Best rear bumper

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Ok. Rough edit here. Will be made from 1/8" aluminum sheet (5052). Press braked lower edge will match the radius of the tunnel lip. 1-1/4" cross tube welded in. Also will have a rib pressed out on the side plate to allow the bumper to sit flat on the tunnel side and not sit crooked over the lip from the cooler edge. Plates are on the way from laser cutting. Bumper will be on our site to order in the next couple days. 155 at the moment, I'll verify perfect fitment here on a 155 and revise for the 163 as soon as the plates get here and order them for the long sled.


I like B&M...can you please let us know on this thread when a black 155" can be ordered...anxious to get my sled done and need a rear bumper to do so:)
 
Plates should be here by the end of the week. Pushing the laser company as hard as I can to get them here asap.

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forgive my ignorance is the Axis tunnel the same as the pro ?
if so would it work on my pro ????
thanks
 
Tunnels are different taper. That's another bumper in the works but we gotta get caught up before we start another project.

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As a heads up... as mentioned in prior posts.

Make sure that the bolt that you use for mounting the rear bumper do not protrude into the tunnel. These bolts can snag and damage your track if they stick into the tunnel.

.
 
As a heads up... as mentioned in prior posts.

Make sure that the bolt that you use for mounting the rear bumper do not protrude into the tunnel. These bolts can snag and damage your track if they stick into the tunnel.

.

Thanks for the heads up! Not sure what they will include for hardware....probably rivets. I have never been a huge fan of rivets so I will probably use some button head cap screws with a nylock nuts on the outside.
 
8 bolts, (very low profile button head torx drive) flanged lock nuts to go with them. 12 Q lock rivets with 8 rivet washers to back them up in the tunnel. I'll snap some pics of mine tomorrow when I dig it out of the trailer at Togwotee Mountain Lodge....finally going to ride this turboed animal. All the bolt holes are factory tunnel holes. One rivet needs to be removed in each tunnel side and drilled through the new bumper. Two rivets on each tunnel lip, one up by the running boards and back about a foot need to be removed and drilled into the new bumper. We send quality rivets with. Bolts need to go through from the inside to the outside to prevent track damage like MH suggested above.

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Thanks for posting Mountainhorst and B&M...

I obviously installed mine last night without checking this post first and have installed it incorrectly as you can see in this picture.

I will reverse the hex head bolts tonight so they do not protrude into the inside of the tunnel.

Also note that I have not installed the front 3 rivets on each side yet...will get to that tonight hopefully.

Ryan
 
That sled that the bumper is on the tunnel was bent bad we straighten tunnel out installed that bumper and now is super ridged I don't foresee it bending again now ever and strengthened the whole tunnel from there back that sled where the two layers turn into one if that's not braced there not gonna do any good at all imo
 
Thanks for posting Mountainhorst and B&M...

I obviously installed mine last night without checking this post first and have installed it incorrectly as you can see in this picture.

I will reverse the hex head bolts tonight so they do not protrude into the inside of the tunnel.

Also note that I have not installed the front 3 rivets on each side yet...will get to that tonight hopefully.

Ryan

The side of your track looks like its fraying like mine. Mines rubbing on the front left bulkhead.
 
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