Who makes the best puller that won't fail for the primary. I want a good one that won't give me fits.
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thanks
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thanks
best primary puller for pro 800
- Thread starter yammi4ever
- Start date
I got one from SLP, I've only used it once but worked fine. It was also the cheapest I cold find at the time.
I have a few different brand pullers.
My favorite, to date, is the PERKS puller.
I believe that this is the most gentle on the crank.
Well made and works easily/as advertised.
Sure you can try a "HomeMade version" using use grease/oil etc and the bolt or a trimmed off clutch puller... but why when this works so well.
I use it with water... and tip the sled on it's side so the water stays in rather than the method shown in the vid... but you'll get the point.
The secret is lots of teflon tape.
I've used it to break even the most difficult ones that caused problems with others.
http://www.perksbalance.com/products.html\
The POLARIS part starts at 4:55 if you want to fast fwd.
.
My favorite, to date, is the PERKS puller.
I believe that this is the most gentle on the crank.
Well made and works easily/as advertised.
Sure you can try a "HomeMade version" using use grease/oil etc and the bolt or a trimmed off clutch puller... but why when this works so well.
I use it with water... and tip the sled on it's side so the water stays in rather than the method shown in the vid... but you'll get the point.
The secret is lots of teflon tape.
I've used it to break even the most difficult ones that caused problems with others.
http://www.perksbalance.com/products.html\
The POLARIS part starts at 4:55 if you want to fast fwd.
.
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Dalton makes the finest puller I have found to date. It takes a ton of abuse. MH is correct water is the best way to hydraulic a clutch, lots of Teflon tape. If it is still stubborn, lightly heat the stationary stem section between the sheaves with a propane torch.
Dalton# DCP-C
Dalton# DCP-C
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G
green_denali
Active member
puller
If you guys are having problems with getting your primary off, wouldn't it be better to invest in a quality torque wrench? When I got into sledding I used to read these stories all the time, & still do, use to make me nervous about wanting to do clutch work on my sled. After getting a torque wrench, I've had my primary off more times then I can count, either doing general cleaning, changing springs, or whatever, only difference is now I have peace of mind doing it. My torque wrench is a blue point, it was about $100 give or take. Snap-On makes a digital one, but its expensive. I also use a Polaris brand puller, as long as the primary isn't over torqued, shouldn't any brand puller work.
If you guys are having problems with getting your primary off, wouldn't it be better to invest in a quality torque wrench? When I got into sledding I used to read these stories all the time, & still do, use to make me nervous about wanting to do clutch work on my sled. After getting a torque wrench, I've had my primary off more times then I can count, either doing general cleaning, changing springs, or whatever, only difference is now I have peace of mind doing it. My torque wrench is a blue point, it was about $100 give or take. Snap-On makes a digital one, but its expensive. I also use a Polaris brand puller, as long as the primary isn't over torqued, shouldn't any brand puller work.
have pulled the primary off lots of times and never had a problem with it
Cleanliness of the PTO end and clutch matting surface is important. I scotch-brite and emery before installation. Torque is the next important step.
But this is not normal procedure in most camps. So we have posts wondering how to remove a stubborn primary. I have removed countless primary's that have spun on the PTO end, rusted, or were over torqued. In 2008 the tapers were slightly mismatched and lapping them in and then polishing them was a savior.
But this is not normal procedure in most camps. So we have posts wondering how to remove a stubborn primary. I have removed countless primary's that have spun on the PTO end, rusted, or were over torqued. In 2008 the tapers were slightly mismatched and lapping them in and then polishing them was a savior.
looked like a good product!!!
Bolt
Used a 3/4" NFT x 4" bolt, Teflon Tape, and ATF to get a clutch off that would not come off with the SLP conventional puller. Virtually popped with a loud bang when it came off.
It's probably the method I will use if the conventional puller doesn't easily remove clutches from now on.
Used a 3/4" NFT x 4" bolt, Teflon Tape, and ATF to get a clutch off that would not come off with the SLP conventional puller. Virtually popped with a loud bang when it came off.
It's probably the method I will use if the conventional puller doesn't easily remove clutches from now on.
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Just called he has closed his business, nothing left.
