BEST mod for the ol 1M
- Thread starter Meatman
- Start date
Running board mod using 2010 M-series board edges:
Terra Alps Racing - 975 big bore kit, power and reliable
chromoly steering post
tunnel kit
2.5" camo extreme
K mod rear suspension coil over kit
chromoly steering post
tunnel kit
2.5" camo extreme
K mod rear suspension coil over kit
no offence to reeb but if i seen you stop to do something and left your ke or teather switch in you sled i wold steel it and ride the hell out of it that is by far the best old style cat i have ever seen
but it makes me angry i cant have it if you were to sell it how much wuld you take?
but it makes me angry i cant have it if you were to sell it how much wuld you take?
So, I added alot of "unique" (or so I think) mods to my 900. 3/4 through the season I thought I would list what I tried and report on how its worked...
What i wanted to accomplish:
better rider ergonomics
more climbabitity without modding the motor
The most unique mods performed:
install a Polaris IQ seat/tank
put in a "double-stack" rear drop brackets
modded the running boards with 2010 M-series board edges
4" FLY Pivot handlebar risers instead of forward post
...and EVERY mod has performed PAST expectation!
BOSS seats are amostly well over $350.00. The IQ setup sits just as high if not a lil' higher, but is a lil' skinnier which feels great when riding/climbing in a stand up position. It also allows you to "transition" easier because you can keep your legs a lil' closer together without straddling the wider style seats. When sitting or riding trail, the slimmed down fuel tank allows you to slide forward which is more comfortable with higher bars. Im planning this mod to some other sleds as well.
The "double-stack" rear drops consist of MOUNTAIN MAGIC drops with SLED JUNKIES conected to that. I was always aware of what "down pressure" on the front might do. I softened up the rear blocks, lenghtened the limiters fully and went hard on the front susp springs. The sled transfers easily with the soft rear setup and compensates for the front down pressure. My rear bumper is 10" higher than stock. Its trail manners are "TERRIBLE!" in the "whoops section". I havent had it on any groomed trails. Our trail "whoops" are only 5 miles so its acceptable for the mountain performance. Powder, steep vertical, sidehills... this setup is ROCKIN'! The skis still lift on climbs, but not as much and its easier to maintain control. You do lose some rear susp. compression so im not sure it would be a good idea to be a big "jumper" with hard hits... though I've jumped it and dropped 10'ish cornices with no effect.
The running board accomplished the 1 thing I wanted. Get rid of all the aft running board to reduce drag in deep snow. This also made an immediate difference. There is some cutting and welding required to fit the rear bracket to the tunnel. DEFINENTLY a worthwhile mod!
I went with the FLY Pivot because I didnt want to pull the post out at the time. The Pivot put the bars up and forward right where I wanted them. The only issue here is that the clamps wore down after time and the bars would move on jumps or steep vertical when your pulling on them. I corrected iy by drilling through the pivot points (bars upper,mount plate lower) and inserted roll pins. That corrected the issue. Currently, there is too much "flex" in the combination of a light stock post that bends and a steering hoop with little support to support the added stress of higher bars. Im looking the cut the post at the bend and add roundstock inside it then spot weld it along the length through holes drilled in the post. (if I can find stock that will fit) I also am experimenting with a support that runs from the top of the hoop over the motor and down to the front bulkhead... kinda like a racecar... stay tuned.
FROM THIS...
TO THIS...
What i wanted to accomplish:
better rider ergonomics
more climbabitity without modding the motor
The most unique mods performed:
install a Polaris IQ seat/tank
put in a "double-stack" rear drop brackets
modded the running boards with 2010 M-series board edges
4" FLY Pivot handlebar risers instead of forward post
...and EVERY mod has performed PAST expectation!
BOSS seats are amostly well over $350.00. The IQ setup sits just as high if not a lil' higher, but is a lil' skinnier which feels great when riding/climbing in a stand up position. It also allows you to "transition" easier because you can keep your legs a lil' closer together without straddling the wider style seats. When sitting or riding trail, the slimmed down fuel tank allows you to slide forward which is more comfortable with higher bars. Im planning this mod to some other sleds as well.
The "double-stack" rear drops consist of MOUNTAIN MAGIC drops with SLED JUNKIES conected to that. I was always aware of what "down pressure" on the front might do. I softened up the rear blocks, lenghtened the limiters fully and went hard on the front susp springs. The sled transfers easily with the soft rear setup and compensates for the front down pressure. My rear bumper is 10" higher than stock. Its trail manners are "TERRIBLE!" in the "whoops section". I havent had it on any groomed trails. Our trail "whoops" are only 5 miles so its acceptable for the mountain performance. Powder, steep vertical, sidehills... this setup is ROCKIN'! The skis still lift on climbs, but not as much and its easier to maintain control. You do lose some rear susp. compression so im not sure it would be a good idea to be a big "jumper" with hard hits... though I've jumped it and dropped 10'ish cornices with no effect.
The running board accomplished the 1 thing I wanted. Get rid of all the aft running board to reduce drag in deep snow. This also made an immediate difference. There is some cutting and welding required to fit the rear bracket to the tunnel. DEFINENTLY a worthwhile mod!
I went with the FLY Pivot because I didnt want to pull the post out at the time. The Pivot put the bars up and forward right where I wanted them. The only issue here is that the clamps wore down after time and the bars would move on jumps or steep vertical when your pulling on them. I corrected iy by drilling through the pivot points (bars upper,mount plate lower) and inserted roll pins. That corrected the issue. Currently, there is too much "flex" in the combination of a light stock post that bends and a steering hoop with little support to support the added stress of higher bars. Im looking the cut the post at the bend and add roundstock inside it then spot weld it along the length through holes drilled in the post. (if I can find stock that will fit) I also am experimenting with a support that runs from the top of the hoop over the motor and down to the front bulkhead... kinda like a racecar... stay tuned.
FROM THIS...
TO THIS...
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no offence to reeb but if i seen you stop to do something and left your ke or teather switch in you sled i wold steel it and ride the hell out of it that is by far the best old style cat i have ever seen
It's simply not worth it to sell the machine. If someone offered, I wouldn't take less than 8grand.
I'm having a hard time not putting my M-10 in it that I bought for the Rev. Right now it's working phenomenal so no changes until the rear skid gives me a headache again.
Thanx for liking my sled, it took many many hours to make it perform like it does, and many more hours keeping it together. Bushings, axles, bolts, spacers etc all had to be changed and or modified so it doesn't wear out after 500 miles. In the front and rear skids, not to mention the time it took to keep attention to detail on a lot of parts. Way more head scratching than I wanted, but in the end I doubt Í would change too much.....but if I did....
Ti A-arms built from a 1M front end and not the Snopro. This way I could use the lighter spindle housing.
Motor - I'd drop a 999cc MadMax Cat BB in there. Although no stock bore 900 has come close to touching this sled on a hill, if I had the 999 in there, I'm sure it would put me head and shoulders above any other 900. (within reason boys) I had a 1150 UB motor for about 2 months and the plan was to put it in this thing, however I sold it for a penny more than I bought it for so I just couldn't pass up the deal.
Powdercrew - Dude I'm definately gonna keep my eye open for that mod! I've wanted to do something like that since I saw it a few years ago on a white sled. Super stout, looked like it would work friggin slick!
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L
Lambert454
Well-known member
what do you all need to do for the recoil conversion
Ditch the chassis and put the Big Twin into something useable i.e. M-series. check it out in 'member sled builds'. quit sinkin' cash into a modified El Tigre'
Turbo??
Turbo!! Making 250+ hp on 10 lbs of boost. It's for sale too
pm me if you are interested.
Turbo!! Making 250+ hp on 10 lbs of boost. It's for sale too
pm me if you are interested.Speedwerx pipe & y-pipe, Boysen Rad valves, 2 1/2 degree advance flywheel key. All recommended by Speedwerx.
153" Attack 20 cut down to 2" with verticle nubs cut off, 7 tooth extrovert drivers, Hi-Tech Paragon & 911 kit on a Comet 4-Pro clutch with Heavy hitter weights.
6 gal outboard reserve tank added to rear & hosed to tank vent to drain it first. LED tail light.
2 wheel kit added to shaft on bottom of middle shock.
Studs added to inside tail of skis for scratchers.
I won't do anything more until it lets up on scaring me.
153" Attack 20 cut down to 2" with verticle nubs cut off, 7 tooth extrovert drivers, Hi-Tech Paragon & 911 kit on a Comet 4-Pro clutch with Heavy hitter weights.
6 gal outboard reserve tank added to rear & hosed to tank vent to drain it first. LED tail light.
2 wheel kit added to shaft on bottom of middle shock.
Studs added to inside tail of skis for scratchers.
I won't do anything more until it lets up on scaring me.
Supreme tool power valves.no more adjusting cables or worries about servo motor failure
Posted from Snowestonline.com App for Android
Posted from Snowestonline.com App for Android
Supreme tool power valves no more adjusting cables or worrying about servo motor
Posted from Snowestonline.com App for Android
Posted from Snowestonline.com App for Android
Powdercrew, this only happened because I saw you and someone else do this.
Turned out pretty good, and still modding(front end is next)
Custom Drop & Roll
Ekholm 156 w/Works Shocks
156x15x2.5 CE
Polaris IQ Tank and Seat
Custom made running boards
SLP Powder Pro's
Custom Intake
The last three pictures are from a Stock King, my Bomb, and the Frog. Showing stock position, Post forward, and IQ Conversion.
Turned out pretty good, and still modding(front end is next)
Custom Drop & Roll
Ekholm 156 w/Works Shocks
156x15x2.5 CE
Polaris IQ Tank and Seat
Custom made running boards
SLP Powder Pro's
Custom Intake
The last three pictures are from a Stock King, my Bomb, and the Frog. Showing stock position, Post forward, and IQ Conversion.
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A little laquer thinner on a microfiber cloth and some elbow grease will remove those pesky stenciled on Polaris logos from your seat. It worked great for me. Try a small corner of one of letters first. I did this with a Polaris seat on a Yamaha.
So any pics of forward mounted post I'd like to see it no air box after?
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