I have an 06 M7 bone stock. it has a 153 inch track. I ride between 7000 and 10,000 feet. I weigh about 160 with my gear on. What weights, springs and helex will work the best. I beleive the sled should run around 7800 rpm is this correct?
Best Cluch Setup for a bone stock M7??
- Thread starter ACM7
- Start date
HAHA, yer funny! Good bait, though, gonna catch a lot of fish with this one. See, everyone likes something different, and every sled is a little different, especially M sleds, for reasons no one has ever explained very well to me. No one "best". 77-7800 rpm is a good target on a stock sled.
I run a mostly stock '05 M7 at 0-6000'...it has a D&D y-pipe, a hacked fuel pressure regulator (running about 42 psi), and a 290 mainjet in the fuel line, efi controller reflashed to '06 specs. I run stock weights for altitude (75g.), with the AC gold spring for low engagement, a straight 38deg. dalton helix, and a goodwin dark blue spring (which you cannot get anymore
), but is so close to the AC orange that it probably doesn't matter, preload near zero, and a shift assist in the secondary. It engages easy, pulls hard to 6000', backshifts yesterday, and doesn't fade. May not be the "best", but I run it all year, all conditions, all altitudes, stock 036 belt, which I'll probably change this year, just for good measure.
Good luck,
John
I run a mostly stock '05 M7 at 0-6000'...it has a D&D y-pipe, a hacked fuel pressure regulator (running about 42 psi), and a 290 mainjet in the fuel line, efi controller reflashed to '06 specs. I run stock weights for altitude (75g.), with the AC gold spring for low engagement, a straight 38deg. dalton helix, and a goodwin dark blue spring (which you cannot get anymore
), but is so close to the AC orange that it probably doesn't matter, preload near zero, and a shift assist in the secondary. It engages easy, pulls hard to 6000', backshifts yesterday, and doesn't fade. May not be the "best", but I run it all year, all conditions, all altitudes, stock 036 belt, which I'll probably change this year, just for good measure.Good luck,
John
furthur has a good setup, but keep in mind his motor should be running better than stock with the y-pipe and fuel being controlled. Also he is at a lower elevation.
At 7-10K run the stock yellow/white spring or the gold. Go with 67g or 68g weights. Stay with the stock 36 degree helix. Change to orange secondary spring or somthing a little lighter. The stock white spring is garbage. Put in a shift assist.
The best thing you could do is machine the secondary into a 10.4 or put on a 10.4. Do some searching on here and you will find everything you need to know about that.
At 7-10K run the stock yellow/white spring or the gold. Go with 67g or 68g weights. Stay with the stock 36 degree helix. Change to orange secondary spring or somthing a little lighter. The stock white spring is garbage. Put in a shift assist.
The best thing you could do is machine the secondary into a 10.4 or put on a 10.4. Do some searching on here and you will find everything you need to know about that.
What is the shift assist?
This worked for me (Crossfire 7, 0-3000ft):
- CPC adjustable weights
- Stock primary spring
- D&D secondary conversion
- Cat R/W secondary spring
- Stock helix
For motor:
- I used 310 mainjet in fuel line (290 was too lean - maybe because different fuel here in Finland?)
- D&D Y
- 2 degree timinkey
- BMP pipe mod
Quite cheap stuff but you gain a lot with these. Especially back- and upshift. Worked bullet proof for 2 years (5000 km).
- CPC adjustable weights
- Stock primary spring
- D&D secondary conversion
- Cat R/W secondary spring
- Stock helix
For motor:
- I used 310 mainjet in fuel line (290 was too lean - maybe because different fuel here in Finland?)
- D&D Y
- 2 degree timinkey
- BMP pipe mod
Quite cheap stuff but you gain a lot with these. Especially back- and upshift. Worked bullet proof for 2 years (5000 km).
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