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Best Bang for the Buck for '13 Pro

P

pj8556

Active member
hey guys, I ordered a '13 Pro. After riding the demo I loved the chassis did not love the motor, smooth and useable powerband but just not enough power. I am already thinking mods.

First, I am pretty sure i want to take off the stock 155" 5.1 track and put on a Camo Extreme 2.5, loved this track on my '09 Assault.

For the motor: I am thinking my price range is $500-1500.

here are some options I am considering: (hope for some insight on them)

- PA head and HPS silencer (approx $700) (anybody running this have
any thoughts?)

- PA head with full SLP exhaust and PC5 ($1350) (is there that much gain
here over just the head and can, worth $800 more i wonder??

- Bikeman head w/ PC5, heard good things about this head from a friend
but dont like that PC5 is required ($769 total)

- RK TEK drop in kit, love the idea of the sleeper head, and new pistons to
help with longevity ($699)

- anyone recommend adding porting to any of these setups?? obviously that would require a fuel controller but if its worth it. rode a '12 last year built by Shane Hart (HM turbos) had a PA head, shanes porting, pipe, reeds, and fuel control, Shane said is ran per-near$3000 for that setup, seemed like alot, although I'd probably skip the reeds.

Again, I'm interested in adding 10-20 useable HP, mostly in the low and mid-range, I like boondocking and running trees, dont have much use for a turbo and want to stop short of a big bore, I just want a good, useable, dependable power boost. Dunno whats gonna change for '13, heard the rumor of new pistons from the factory, we'll see.... maybe fueling changes, still doesnt change the fact this CFI2 motor is softer than the CFI4 motor in the 09s and 10s, reduced compression and milder porting definitely made a difference (in the wrong way) that I noticed on the '13 demo right away.

So.... best bang for the buck??? Thanks much!!
 
The PA head will give you what you are after in the trees. Helps a great deal with throttle response and bottom to mid grunt. Don't waste your money on a can unless your only goal is to make noise. That, or are going on a serious diet to where you are counting ounces. Leave the stock can on and save a riding area from getting closed. The PA will gain you little to no hp on the topend however. If you are after that, a pipe is more your thing.

Clutching!!!! They are clutched very soft from the factory. While it does work well, run a kit from Carl's or the local guys in your area and you will find a very big difference in how hard the sled will pull, as well as topend speeds.
 
If your a tree guy not a road guy? gear it 19-46. Yea, I know, its a belt drive
 
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I started with the SLP stage 2, never rode the sled stock so cant say anything about that difference. Sled pulled strong with this setup but the SLP supplied map was waaay rich.

Then i upgraded to the stage 3 map from slp and put on a PA head, gave noticable difference on throttleresponse and mid range.

Had to put on two grams of extra weight compared to the stage 2...also ended up running one gram more than what slp recommended with theyre stage 3 setup. This was with stock gearing with the competition track in heavy spring snow. pulling 8100rpm.

At sealevel.

I am very satisfied with my setup as of today, will keep it like it is engine wise next season. Challanger extreme 2.5 track is waiting to go on plus a team tied.

To sum it up, if you want that little extra throttle response then a head might be enough....but if you feel you will need more than that just get a pipe and PCV too.

Pull, go and enjoy!!:face-icon-small-coo
 
Interesting topic for the '13.

I have the PA/HPS combo. I think they are easy enough to install but I had to run a touch of av fuel (110 lead) with the non-ethanol plug and our great Colorado ethanol fuel. The power was not awesome but more snappy and some mid range. Don't expect to get on the sled and be wowed. I actually took my head off in favor of full time non-ethanol plug and pump gas 91 ethanol fuel. This was similar to the HPS/PA setup on the ETHANOL plug.

Go for clutching, Polaris clutching is good compared to others (why do you think the other brands have conversion kits for the P85?). I'd read up more on the RKT stuff. There are some good long hash outs in this section between Kelsey and IndyDan. Good information but I just that much more confused on what to do to the CFI2.
 
Right now I am leaning toward the PA head at the minimum, maybe I'll see how I like that by itself, but I'm thinking the PA head, SLP exhaust, PC5 combo ($1350) from poweraddictionracing.com is gonna be hard for me to turn down, sounds like a nice boost in power all the way thru the powerband. 12-15 HP boost, a little torque boost, hopefully reliable gains.

PA is new to me but have had good results and experience with SLP in the past.

....and clutching...

Thoughts?
 
I’m going with a PA kit also, but adding Mountain Techs “Fix” Kit…Brad said is a awesome compliment to the head. Similar to RKT Tech “Fix Kit”. But handles the problem different (don’t ask how). Call Shawn at Mountain Tech for details.

http://www.mtntkperformance.com/

Shawn is also sending me his clutching suggestions. But Indy Dan has a complete setup with Team Tied and its suppose to work really well.

I think anyone will tell you Team Tied secondary is the best option to put on that sled. Their Rooster Weights are adjustable and make for easy tuning.


 
Team Tied Secondary!!! Love it!! Gained 4-5 sledlengths on uphill drags over 200 yards over an identical sled with no Tied Secondary!!
 
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mtntk and rktek fix kits are all well and good and i will consider them if and when i find out that the motor changes/improvements rumored for '13 are false rumors
 
I was also considering mods up until I had the opportunity to ride with a few mildly modded Pros. Two had cans and heads, the other a pipe, head, and fuel controller. The bottom end was very responsive on the sleds, but as far as powder pulling, uphill drags, lake racing, they had nothing at all my stocker. I guess they may have been clutched poorly. Over the course of the season, about 50 rides and maybe a dozen slightly different setups, I found that 8,000 RPM's puts a whole lot more power to the snow than 8,200. I ride with a friend who has a stock 2011 155 with a lightweight hood (Diamond S ?), he weighs about 175. There wasn't another NA 800cc sled we found all season that could outhighmark or pull him in steep uphill drags running Polaris book clutching. I was happy he quit riding a couple months early, less snow in my face. After what I saw this season I might just lean towards the screen hood option (better bang for the buck), better cooling will make for more efficient (dialed) clutching.
 
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8,000 on the tach? Are they reading accurate on the Pros? (sure wasn't the case with BRP's)

Thanks,

G
 
I think they're pretty accurate. I rode with several different pro's throughout the course of the season, everybody turning 7,950 to 8,000 outran the 8,200 RPM sleds pretty badly. Remember early in the year when everyone was making the comment that they thought the 2012's made more power than the 2011's. The most common comment was the 2012 with stock clutching only pulling 7,950 RPM's outran my well tuned (?) 8,200 RPM 2011.
 
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