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BEDLINER on floor ???

I measured my floor sq footage and called a dealer. It was crazy expensive, like $1200.00 I think, and thats for a 14" two place enclosed. If you did it , I think you would still need ski guides or else the carbides would push real hard on it. I used a floor paint with traction in it, and SLP ski guides on the skiis.
 
I've done a few trailers, I did Built4dtuffs trailer, pm him and see how he has liked it.

I am a Reflex dealer, $1500-$2000 to do a trailer
 
Carbides WILL eventually tear it up....I don't care what anyone says. Some last longer than others, some last quite long, but I have never seen one not take some damage
 
went to local line x dealer and had them do our 18 ft duck boat. best $650 i ever spent. the dogs love it,[they never slip or slide around anymore] and when the floor is soaking wet. i love it also, because your not skating around anymore risking to fall out.
 
Carbides WILL eventually tear it up....I don't care what anyone says. Some last longer than others, some last quite long, but I have never seen one not take some damage

Friends got a 5 year old Line-X'd inclosed four place with NO problems
We have three years on ours also.
Floor prep plays a huge roll in how it holds up.. If your dealer cuts corners it wont last worth $hit.
 
i had it done and it works good easier to clean, but the ramps get very slippery. I still use the ski boots to save the floor
 
Linex'd my 30' Feartherlite. Absolutely excellent way to go. Cost me very little since a good friend has the equipment at his shop. ramps need extra traction. 2 years and zero problems.
 
I did my gooseneck and after three years it requires patching in high traffic areas and with the new reverse on single carbide ski styles. A lot of money for a non permanent solution and you can see the patching work.

TO do it all over again I would treat the wood with a quality sealant like UV 40 and buy livestock matting. MUCH BETTER RESULTS!

OR buy a Mirage Trailer floor (which was not available when we did this one)
 
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Get old plastic truck bed liner from junk yard for $15 -$20 and cut up.

Also, get boat fiberglass and cut it so it soaks in. Plus add sand to top layer for traction.
 
Friends got a 5 year old Line-X'd inclosed four place with NO problems
We have three years on ours also.
Floor prep plays a huge roll in how it holds up.. If your dealer cuts corners it wont last worth $hit.

I've got a Line-X in my truck right now....it doesn't have "problems," and it's the best material I've had so far, BUT does show a few marks from the sled. Anyways, point being that __I__ would not shell the bucks for bedliner with the intent of driving sleds on it with no other protection from carbides. It would be cool, look nice, and be tough but I would definetly still run ski slips or dollys if it was something I wanted to look nice for a long time.
 
I went and talked to the local Rhino Liner guy here in Vernal who also happens to be an avid snowmobile freak like most of us on here ... he's been sledding for probably 30+ years, and I'd definatley trust his advice..

He told me the best thing you could do for it if you were gonna go with the spray-on route was the Rhino Liner "Hardline" stuff ... not the truck bed stuff.

I guess this is a different type of spray-on Rhino Liner that's considered to be "commercial grade" or something .... It is more expensive than the truck bedliner but he says he's had in in his trailer for awhile now and hasn't had to patch it or anything.

Might be worth looking into.
 
I spray Ultimate Linings, low pressure high build, similar to Rhino's equivalent product. I sprayed my 27ft enclosed whole floor, and both ramp doors. Put it on about 1/4" overall. Did it in white, as to brighten the interior for working on stuff. I hate ski runners and the such because of always tripping over them when moving around, so I use ski skins that you slip over your skis. Makes it easy to move the sleds around by hand also. Yes, it can still be a bit slick when covered with water and ice, but what isn't. Overall, a great product to protect wood. I have never used a hard sealer, but is a good idea if contamination is an issue. I have always recommended to get it done when the wood is new, before you drip oil or antifreeze all over it. As far as price, a trailer my size, and amount of material used, I would have had to charge 3000. I have seen other trailers done alot thinner that prolly cost a lot less. Depends on the quality you want. I have been spraying polyurethane for over 11 years. There isn't much I have not done with it.
 
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