Bearings for 2016 Timbersled

[yooper01]

I have a 2016 Timbersled LT. The website no longer has a parts breakdown, which I seem to recall seeing there a few months ago.

Anyhow, I have 70 hours on my kit and will have some down time for the next few weeks so I want to replace the bearings.

Are there any higher quality options on the market? Does anyone have part numbers for the whole get up?

Any special tools needed to replace all the bearings?

Thanks.

 

[M5-]

I don't have a 16 kit but I'm assuming the main bearings are the same throughout all the years. I just did mine and used these:

SKF 6205-2RSH/C3 seven of those Explorer series

Rear wheel bearings for the skid NSK 6004DDU two

The wheel bearings were ready to blow so check those, they spun fine but once I pulled the bearing and removed the seal all the plating was cracking off. Time bomb.

M5

 

[yooper01]

I don't have a 16 kit but I'm assuming the main bearings are the same throughout all the years. I just did mine and used these:

SKF 6205-2RSH/C3 seven of those

Rear wheel bearings for the skid NSK 6004DDU two

The wheel bearings were ready to blow so check those, they spun fine but once I pulled the bearing and removed the seal all the plating was cracking off. Time bomb.

M5

Much thanks. I'm gonna rip it apart and double check the measurement s.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[Pedec]

Will those SKF bearing work on 2014 sx kit with single bearings. Can not find any double bearing upgraded kits now. And are all the bearings the same size I take. Thanks

 

[snowbikekits.com]

You should be able to lookup parts here

http://parts.polarisind.com/browse/Browse.asp

 

[yooper01]

You should be able to lookup parts here

http://parts.polarisind.com/browse/Browse.asp

Thanks for the link, thats exactly what I was looking for!

 

[yooper01]

I don't have a 16 kit but I'm assuming the main bearings are the same throughout all the years. I just did mine and used these:

SKF 6205-2RSH/C3 seven of those Explorer series

Rear wheel bearings for the skid NSK 6004DDU two

The wheel bearings were ready to blow so check those, they spun fine but once I pulled the bearing and removed the seal all the plating was cracking off. Time bomb.

M5

Are those bearings from SKF sealed? I am thinking going to a maintenance free bearing would be nice.

 

[M5-]

Yes, the 2RS stands for 2 rubber seals. You can remove the seals with a small pick but yes they are sealed. From the factory they don't actually have all that much grease in them though I added a bit more.

M5

 

[Yrocmoto]

Worth noting that if you have a 2011-2015 you need bearings from Polaris so that you can still grease them (they have holes in the outer races).

Some of my buddies have been blowing bearings on their newer, non-greasable tracks and have been on my case for the last couple years that I'm going to get stranded....well I tore them out today and they are ALL GOOD....one was a little 'notchy', but full of good grease and no rust.

My track is a '14, so 4 seasons with an average of 20 days per season...maybe more...

2206826 AXLE BEARING W/GREASE HOLES [2011-2015]

I got them for $17ea, which is way more than all these sealed bearings...but I'm on the oldest track and am one of the only guys of our group of about 8 that hasn't had bearing issues....

FYI, you have to grease them after EVERY RIDE to push the water out, but that's pretty easy to do.

Also, I didn't do the double bearing upgrade, and it probably isn't necessary unless you are building a high HP bike...most stock bikes are probably fine with the single bearing...

 

[SlickO]

Has anybody tried drilling holes? Is the race too hard?

Looks like just pop the seal out clamp in a drill press align and use a sharp bit with lots of cutting oil.

If I get some time I have some old non TS berings liying around I'm gonna try.

 

[M5-]

Most of the bearing issues on the older kits are caused by the design of the kit itself. Not every cromo backbone came out the same after being welded. When you disassemble the kits there is a reason why the holes in the tunnel sides are slotted its because the kit usually isn't square.

If you are running single row bearings still and haven't blown one up consider yourself lucky, might want to pick up a lotto ticket next time you buy gas. The holes in the bearings do SFA. On the double row setup the inner seals are out and you get more grease in that way then thru those useless little holes.

The most important thing to remember is when you reassemble an older TS kit is to slowly tighten all the bolts in sequence like when installing a cylinder head and make sure everything is relaxed and spins freely. If you have any side loading at all it will eat the bearings in nothing flat, it has nothing to do with power. The old tunnel sides have way too much flex and you can easily pull them out of alignment such that it is.



M5

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Most of the bearing issues on the older kits are caused by the design of the kit itself. Not every cromo backbone came out the same after being welded. When you disassemble the kits there is a reason why the holes in the tunnel sides are slotted its because the kit usually isn't square.

If you are running single row bearings still and haven't blown one up consider yourself lucky, might want to pick up a lotto ticket next time you buy gas. The holes in the bearings do SFA. On the double row setup the inner seals are out and you get more grease in that way then thru those useless little holes.

The most important thing to remember is when you reassemble an older TS kit is to slowly tighten all the bolts in sequence like when installing a cylinder head and make sure everything is relaxed and spins freely. If you have any side loading at all it will eat the bearings in nothing flat, it has nothing to do with power. The old tunnel sides have way too much flex and you can easily pull them out of alignment such that it is.



M5

Agreed.
I’m running 110 hp through single row bearings.

But everything is trued up and square.

 

[SlickO]

Got all 9 bearings today, for a round $100, nachi say made in Japan on the box. Before I got a set of 10 from amazon for around 23 took a look at them and they went back, no way I would trust them. I like to keep the grease-ability on the bearings. The double side I'm thinking about taking out the inside seals and putting a notch on the outside race to allow the grease to flow in. Now what to do on the single? Drilling is an option but looks like to be more work than its worth, likely I'll just get the polaris bearing. The whole reason I'm changing the bearings are because the one single by the brake feels rough the doubles are getting changed just for insurance. Any suggestions what is the best way to do this? Thanks.

 

[Pedec]

So ordered the Polaris bearings 2206826 and all bearing showed up in package saying 2206826 but 2 bearing are all sealed and other 2 are not no seal on side of bearing at all. I have been running my 2013 sx single bearing set up for three 3 years no problem. What bearing will replace what I have in there which are grease-able. I alway dry my bike out after every use and rotate track after and add one pump of grease to each bearing after each use seems to work. I also believe proper chain tension is important for helping bearing last. And old sx sides panels are solid might be better supporting bearing not as much flex as newer models. What are single grease-able bearing suppose to look like?

 

[SlickO]

I haven't pulled by bearings yet, puller is in the mail, but my guess is the bearings with the seal only on one side are the ones that are doubled up in the kit the inside seal is removed to allow the grease in. The fully sealed on both sides is the single side, on my kit it is the brake side. Hope that helps, or someone with a little more knowledge on the subject could chime in.

 

[Pedec]

Even the dealer was not sure some of his bearing had seals on both side some did not all marked the same number. Any help with which bearings need to go back in old single bearing setup would be great or will the open seal be ok in single bearing setup if so at which place to put them up top on drives and chains or on track driver bearings. Thanks for any help. Should are start a new post on subject and not hi jack this one?

 

[SlickO]

In a single bearing set up you need both seals and a hole in the outer race if you want it to be greaseable. I just removed my bearings and the double do not have a hole int them they just have the inner seals removed. The single bearing has a hole for the grease. Also in my case the single bearing the outer race was cracked, never seen anything like it it did not crack on the hole and it did not crack during removal as part of it was darker like it has seen grease and wear. I'm not sure what I will do to remove the broken piece, probably BBQ it.

On the single set up if you were to go without grease holes, there is a PFPE type grease that is supposed to be longer life, I would use that and replace the grease that came in the bearings.

 

[L.Hughes]

Last week while greasing my kit ('15 LT), I found the single bearing nearest the brake was thrashed, even took out the housing. I had no previous indications of wear, as I keep a pretty close eye on them and grease them regularly (every ride/weekend). Sure glad I found it before it left me stranded or did more damage!

Now, my concern- I ordered the replacement bearing assembly from a local dealer. The part that showed up has NO grease fitting?! TS P/N 1523087, which updated from 2206758. I'm really not expecting any longevity out of it like that... Has anyone needed to replace this bearing housing and wound up with this cheese-ball setup?

 

[CATSLEDMAN1]

basiclly forget it

the ability to use a grease gun on the TS kits was a design failure. I have replaced agood number of TS bearing in the field, never seen a dry one.
Cracked races, gumballed bearings, scrambled bearing cages. Side stress ruins these bearing not lack of lubrication.

Now, your wheel bearing with no side pressure need grease annually or they fail and you will find them dri.

Find good quality 6205 sealed bearing..........2RS suffix(6205-2RS for SKF, Nachi 6205-2NS ), the last couple of years the 6205 from Polaris have been as cheap as anybody for quality bearings.......yeah don't figure.

Riding bears out the fact that these bearing double or singe are too small and too weak for the application. Other kits have bearings that don't fail and they are about twice the size.

 

[Hawkster]

Probably doesn't matter but is that snap ring put in the right way ?