Ball joints
- Thread starter WY_Covert
- Start date
Do they have grease zerks? If not, and if you can access the end if the joint, you could tap in a zerk fitting. Fill it back up with grease and you can usually extend the life another 20k-50k miles. Done it many times.
If they're just bad or you can't tap them, the best place to get ball joints is your local auto parts dealer. Mainly because they will let you use their ball joint press for free. Some parts stores will rent you a pickle fork for free too, but they're cheap enough to buy.
If they're just bad or you can't tap them, the best place to get ball joints is your local auto parts dealer. Mainly because they will let you use their ball joint press for free. Some parts stores will rent you a pickle fork for free too, but they're cheap enough to buy.
Are you doing this yourself? 4x4 dodge front ends are not super easy to get apart, a 12 yr old truck driven in snow/salt makes it even more fun. You will need a GOOD ball joint press with the correct adapters, and an air hammer is almost a must.
As for balljoints.... well the bad news is there is a lot of cheap crap out there, even a lot of the "good" ones and still made in china junk. On these trucks I either use OEM mopar or NAPA Chassis. NAPA chassis is their lifetime warranty line and is good quality and a good choice if your going to keep the truck for another 5-10yrs. Only going to keep it another 2-4 yrs go with the Mopar.
Between Dodge, Ford and GM trucks, I bet Ive replaced enough ball joints to pay for several new sleds over the years
As for balljoints.... well the bad news is there is a lot of cheap crap out there, even a lot of the "good" ones and still made in china junk. On these trucks I either use OEM mopar or NAPA Chassis. NAPA chassis is their lifetime warranty line and is good quality and a good choice if your going to keep the truck for another 5-10yrs. Only going to keep it another 2-4 yrs go with the Mopar.
Between Dodge, Ford and GM trucks, I bet Ive replaced enough ball joints to pay for several new sleds over the years
Thing to Remember on the dodge ball joints. You can buy a eccentric joint or a straight one. I’ve replaced worn factory joints with the straight ones and it helped wandering some but couldn’t get it aligned properly. Had to go with the eccentric joint to get it aligned.
I believe that upper joint cost around 250-270 from Napa when I did it last.
I believe that upper joint cost around 250-270 from Napa when I did it last.
I use to wrench for the big three, chevy, dodge and ford. I have had minimum luck with Napa ball joints or any store brand ball joints for that fact. I have been looking atAre you doing this yourself? 4x4 dodge front ends are not super easy to get apart, a 12 yr old truck driven in snow/salt makes it even more fun. You will need a GOOD ball joint press with the correct adapters, and an air hammer is almost a must.
As for balljoints.... well the bad news is there is a lot of cheap crap out there, even a lot of the "good" ones and still made in china junk. On these trucks I either use OEM mopar or NAPA Chassis. NAPA chassis is their lifetime warranty line and is good quality and a good choice if your going to keep the truck for another 5-10yrs. Only going to keep it another 2-4 yrs go with the Mopar.
Between Dodge, Ford and GM trucks, I bet Ive replaced enough ball joints to pay for several new sleds over the years
https://www.carlisuspension.com/dodge-ball-joints.html
But the price point is threw the roof for all four. So I am just looking for what has worked best for everyone else with out costing a left nut.
As for me doing it if I had more time I would but, the project I am currently working on is 7 days a week for the next month plus. Probably going to drop it off at my buddies father-in-law shop and let him deal with 13 yo ball joints. Lol.
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C
Chern_889
Active member
EMF Ball joints, do them once and never have to do them again, adjustable and rebuidable in the truck without having to press them out, on the pricey side, but you won't ever have to do them again, the quality of Moog and other parts store brands just aren't there, they are pure junk.
Carli is also a top shelf product, more money though and not rebuildable.
EMF are designed and built in Alberta, https://emfballjoints.com/collections/dodge-ball-joints/products/emf-dodge-ram-03-13-lower-and-03-15-upper-ball-joint-set-of-4so if you are American the exchange rate plays well in your favour.
Carli is also a top shelf product, more money though and not rebuildable.
EMF are designed and built in Alberta, https://emfballjoints.com/collections/dodge-ball-joints/products/emf-dodge-ram-03-13-lower-and-03-15-upper-ball-joint-set-of-4so if you are American the exchange rate plays well in your favour.
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Toyota?
S
SnoKrazy
New member
Best ball joints
After 16 plus years doing front end alignments and other suspension work, I prefer Moog parts. TRW used to be nearly as good and had zerks on some applications that every other brand didn't. Beware though, I recently purchased some Moog parts for a 2008 Tundra and found re-boxed Chinese parts. Same thing with Timken bearings that are advertised as all "Made in the USA". Those were junk Koyo wheel bearings in a timken box.
After 16 plus years doing front end alignments and other suspension work, I prefer Moog parts. TRW used to be nearly as good and had zerks on some applications that every other brand didn't. Beware though, I recently purchased some Moog parts for a 2008 Tundra and found re-boxed Chinese parts. Same thing with Timken bearings that are advertised as all "Made in the USA". Those were junk Koyo wheel bearings in a timken box.
Last set of moog and Napa brand didn't last 75k in Wyoming. I understand that there is no magic fix because the geometry set up on the axle. But when you spend this much you hope to get at least 100k out of them.
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Moog is nothing like what it use to be. I stopped using them years ago because they were no better then the rest of the cheap stuff.
If you can get 75,000 miles out of them I think your doing good.
Even the high dollar ones listed above that are rebuildable dont warranty them for wearing out.
If you can get 75,000 miles out of them I think your doing good.
Even the high dollar ones listed above that are rebuildable dont warranty them for wearing out.
I had an 04.5, 2500, went through a few sets of ball joints in the 286k miles I had it.
Did a bit of research on several forums when my truck was eating moog like they were skittles. Ya they had warranty on the part, but I still got to pay to have them replaced. The rebuild-able one's, same thing do they cover the labor to rebuild them?
I finally took some advice an purchased "Raybestos Professional Grade Ball Joints"
They had to be the Professional Grade, not sure why but I can say from experience, these were the best for the price.
I purchased them and took them to the suspension shop that did all the work for me, the next time I went in for an alignment, they were surprised that I had not been in again for ball joints.
here are the amazon links that I purchased.
Link 1
Link 2
Did a bit of research on several forums when my truck was eating moog like they were skittles. Ya they had warranty on the part, but I still got to pay to have them replaced. The rebuild-able one's, same thing do they cover the labor to rebuild them?
I finally took some advice an purchased "Raybestos Professional Grade Ball Joints"
They had to be the Professional Grade, not sure why but I can say from experience, these were the best for the price.
I purchased them and took them to the suspension shop that did all the work for me, the next time I went in for an alignment, they were surprised that I had not been in again for ball joints.
here are the amazon links that I purchased.
Link 1
Link 2
C
capulin overdrive
Well-known member
Another Moog hater here. They just don't last very long.
We use them some, because they're readily available at the local auto parts store.
But where I run 80 on dirt roads all day, i'll spend the money for OEM on my wagon. Same for my guys that have lead feet. Don't want to kill a guy with cheap parts.
We use them some, because they're readily available at the local auto parts store.
But where I run 80 on dirt roads all day, i'll spend the money for OEM on my wagon. Same for my guys that have lead feet. Don't want to kill a guy with cheap parts.
