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Balance Point

WyoUltra

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Where are you guys finding the balance point on your edge? I'm having a hard time keeping my sled on it's edge. I'm finding it just ahead of the rear suspension mount on the tunnel, but I find myself feeling like i'm almost laying leaning on the bars too much. Which I believe causes me to lose it just after the sled starts to get on it's edge. I feel more comfortable with my foot in the foot well, however it doesn't seem like it wants to go on it's edge very well, and yes I am counter steering, with the wrong foot forward. Any ideas, hints, tips, or advice?
 
I'm not quite sure what you're asking, but I'll give it a shot.
The balance point on my sled sees to be right wherethe rear of the trailing arms attach--at least, that where it balances best on a dolly. :face-icon-small-ton

Are you sure you are countersteering enough?
I can put my '02 edge on it's side while still sitting on the seat, by leaning to the inside and putting pressure on my inside foot with a big counter steer to initiate...in 6-8 inches of snow, level ground. It mostly comes from the counter steer.

When side-hilling I do find myself forward, waist close to the bars.
If I'm on the right side, my right foot is forward...usually in, or just behind the footwell. Obviously, left side would be opposite.
I do work my way to the back of the tunnel sometimes depending on what I'm trying to do.

Find a safe place to play, and practice countersteering. Over-exaggerate your counter steer just to see how the sled reacts. I see a lot of guys jerking mountain bars and leaning WAY out, when all they need is more countersteering.
 
Haha, well perhaps I'm not counter steering enough. I can get the sled to start to go onto it's edge, but soon after it loses it. Maybe hold it tighter?
 
Try doing it real slow. Once you start to gain too much speed it will want to set back down on the track. Just for fun, with the engine off, sled on flat ground, pull it up on its side until it will almost stay there. The sled will be close to a 45°. Once you have that in your mind you should be able to pull it up while riding knowing you aren't close to the angle. With enough counter-steer, that chassis will stay up on its side reasonably easy.
 
Not sure what you weigh but something that really helped me and some buddies on this chassis was raising the bars pretty high, like 8 inches over the stock height. This way you are able to move foot position more and find the sweet spot. It works.
 
I'm about 200 with gear on, 6'2" stock bars. I was told that your bars are best at their lowest height, that's also what the Schooled series say. So I should be able to keep my foot relatively close to the footwell? That's where I feel most comfortable standing on the sled.
 
Bar height is VERY subjective. Imo however, the stock bar height on the edge is very low. I ran 3 1/2" of rise in mine. That was enough to allow me not to kill my back from stand up riding all day hunched over, yet they were still low enough to accomplish schooled's point of still having an anchor and leverage. I would strongly suggest a 3" riser on that chassis if you have none at all on it. Especially at your height. I'm 6'1".
 
I heard I'd have to have throttle and brake extensions if you do anything over 2" is that true??
 
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3 1/2" is about the end without extending anything. You will have to reroute your throttle cable a bit but it will reach. Likewise with the brake cable. Carefully bend the steel line off the caliper and that will give you an inch or two.
 
Most of it will come to you with more practice, but there are ways to make it easier.
If you haven't already, try removing the sway bar.
I ran narrowed radius rods on my edge, just took 1/2" off each end of all four rods, for a ski width reduction of 2". This was pretty effective. I had 4" rise bars on the stock height post, worked well and I'm 6'4". Stock bar height is too low IMO but too high isn't any good either. I think (not certain) on the later year edges the wiring/throttle cable/brake line were all long enough for up to 4" without modification.
Cheers
 
I've heard that it gives it pretty bad trail manners when you do that, is that true? Not that I like to be on the trail, sometimes I just find the group I'm in on it more then I prefer. If you remove it you have to tighten the front shocks all but a few turns, am I right in this as well? Would I then have to adjust the limiter straps to adjust for the different ski pressure?
 
I would try the other ideas before I would remove the sway bar. I had a '99 with the sway bar removed, plus my '94 XLT. With it out, the sled would collapse too bad when up on one ski even with the shocks turned up. It wallowed out pretty bad on the corners when pushing it on the trail. On my '05 700/144 I left it in, added a 3" bar riser and rode it that way. I could get it up on a ski sitting down and standing up was pretty easy once you got comfortable with where it needed to be. I'd put a bar riser on it and go ride it.
 
IMO a couple inches of raised bar height will make a world of a difference. I like to be able to stand up straight without having to bend down to the bars. Just a comfortable stance. This will help you shift weight to pull your sled on its side as well as save your back by the end of the day. I don't think the schooled series is talking about stock edge chassis when they talk about bars being too high. They're referring to the new sleds with 6" risers that are just ridiculous. In my experience, 2" of riser is easy to install without modification to brake and throttle lines. But don't hesitate to do 3 or 4 inches with modifications to get it where you need it to be comfortable. You'll be very happy with this change.
 
I just had a though, could I soften up the front shocks with the sway bar in, would that allow it to be more nimble? or would it just make for a worse ride?
 
Bar height is a personal preference. However there is a point at which things can get out of hand. You have to find a height that allows you to stand comfortabley and relaxxed and allows you to move freely from side to side. the higher you go the further away the bars move in off camber situations when the sled is not on its edge. Shocks play a big roll in how a sled reacts to body position and body input and obviously how the sled reacts to the terrain. Gettting a sled to ride well on the trail and boonedock well is almost impossible. To make it handle well on the trail you give up off trail performance. I would set it up where you like to ride most and just deal with the short comings in the other areas. I would start to make to make small adjustments to the stiffness of the sespension and go ride for a day to see if it is worse or better. make only one adjustement at a time so you can tell what difference the change made. if you make more you never know which change did what. If you have air shocks small air changes can have big effects on the handling
 
I removed sway bar on my 03 144" and on trail manners stayed the same except when in off camber situations (road bank or drift) it wants to roll a little more. It will go on its edge easier but you do need a strong counter steer. Make sure your set in narrow ski position.
 
We removed the sway bars on all our Edge chassis. My kids could side hill them without much effort. They are easy to remove and reinstall. If you need one I have a pail full at home.
 
Your 6' tall bars are way to low. your sled will have a 4" riser block in it get a cable extension and a 8" riser or 6 to 9" adjustable riser. if worried about sitting down. someone 5'4" would not complain your bars to high,they would say it perfect. I put the mentioned adjustable riser on have it set at 8" and have never moved it. Way better getting balance and easy to throw around. im 6'1" 215. if I did it again I would just do solid 8". My bro put solid 8" had it for years loved it he 6' tall and 165 with gear on.
 
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