Looking for some help diagnosing the issues on my 2016 rmk. It has a bikeman 860 kit on it as well but I do not believe that to be the issue. It has trouble starting and you must crack the throttle to keep it running when cold. Then it will randomly cut out or bog and then foul a plug or only run on one cylinder until I limp it back and change plugs and sled cools back down. I have check the the TPS and set it perfect. Checked relays. Running out of ideas for what to check. Possibly reeds? Injector? Coil or Stator? Pipe temp sensor? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
AXYS 860 issues, help
- Thread starter jstarry31
- Start date
have you checked compression?
Also, what are you using for a fuel controller with the big bore kit? If its a piggy back type system, try unhooking it and just running the sled with the stock fuel mapping to see if it starts and idles normal. Your not going to hurt anything just running it on a stand for testing.
Also, what are you using for a fuel controller with the big bore kit? If its a piggy back type system, try unhooking it and just running the sled with the stock fuel mapping to see if it starts and idles normal. Your not going to hurt anything just running it on a stand for testing.
I have not checked compression, will try that.
It has a bully dog so the tune is actually downloaded and writes over the stock map. I can unplug it and the tune stays. I will try contacting bikeman to make sure I have the most up to date map.
Starting to think it is either injector or reeds. Is there any way to check injectors with a multimeter resistance value or something?
It has a bully dog so the tune is actually downloaded and writes over the stock map. I can unplug it and the tune stays. I will try contacting bikeman to make sure I have the most up to date map.
Starting to think it is either injector or reeds. Is there any way to check injectors with a multimeter resistance value or something?
Check your reeds!! Have heard of this causing similar issues.
Yep reeds
Dug more into the sled last night, reeds looked good, piston skirts however showed some scoring (see attachment) which led to a compression test. Tested at 90 PTO and 115 Mag. My question is now that is that the entire issue? Obviously it needs at least a top end but I don't want to put one in and there be another root issue, IE oil pump cutting out occasionally, causing premature piston wear. The build has 700 miles on it total which makes it seem unlikely it did this just from normal wear and tear.
Did some electrical troubleshooting per the service manual and these were my results. Tested with a Fluke 188 that is calibrated. Book says take readings at 68 deg F but mine were probably more like 60 deg F. Most give a +-15% but some of my readings are well out of that range. Theres table in the attachments thats easier to read.
Coils Spec Reading Value
PTO 0.45 Ohms 0.60 Ohms
MAG 0.45 Ohms 0.61 Ohms
Stator
Yellow/Yellow 0.12 Ohms 0.23 Ohms (load shed relay,lights, handwarmers)
Blk/Blk 0.20 Ohms 0.35 Ohms (fuel pump, oil pump, EV actuator)
Org/Org 0.72 Ohms 0.88 Ohms (Fuel Injector, ECU, Coils)
Just Curious of those are far enough out to raise concern that should be addressed before I put a new top end in it. Even with top end being bad I wouldnt think it would randomly cut out like it does on a hard landing or full throttle pull or just randomly. Could be wrong tho.
Another concern would possibly be the pipe temp sensor, seemed to be reading low when riding, Like 800F when it should be 1000-1100 F. Would this make the engine lean itself out more than it should because it thinks the pipe is cooler than it actually is?
Thanks for any help or input!! I appreciate it.
Did some electrical troubleshooting per the service manual and these were my results. Tested with a Fluke 188 that is calibrated. Book says take readings at 68 deg F but mine were probably more like 60 deg F. Most give a +-15% but some of my readings are well out of that range. Theres table in the attachments thats easier to read.
Coils Spec Reading Value
PTO 0.45 Ohms 0.60 Ohms
MAG 0.45 Ohms 0.61 Ohms
Stator
Yellow/Yellow 0.12 Ohms 0.23 Ohms (load shed relay,lights, handwarmers)
Blk/Blk 0.20 Ohms 0.35 Ohms (fuel pump, oil pump, EV actuator)
Org/Org 0.72 Ohms 0.88 Ohms (Fuel Injector, ECU, Coils)
Just Curious of those are far enough out to raise concern that should be addressed before I put a new top end in it. Even with top end being bad I wouldnt think it would randomly cut out like it does on a hard landing or full throttle pull or just randomly. Could be wrong tho.
Another concern would possibly be the pipe temp sensor, seemed to be reading low when riding, Like 800F when it should be 1000-1100 F. Would this make the engine lean itself out more than it should because it thinks the pipe is cooler than it actually is?
Thanks for any help or input!! I appreciate it.
The ohm specs look good... you are going after too many things at once here.. use the old kiss rule... throw a top end in it first, see how ut runs and than continue your diag... 800k is pretty sad for a top end so you have something going on... how do the plugs look? If i had to guess its a ****ty fuel map or injectors... maby the tune is leaning our your oil too i dont know..
