Hello, is anyone running a PCV with autotune on there sleds? I currently am running this set up in a IQR with a 2011 cfi2 800 engine. I was doing some testing yesterday because im lacking three hundred rpm and i cannot find why i lost it. Ive checked everything including replacing alot of parts haha. I Have the 7500 to 8500 set on the autotune for a afr of 13. When i do a wot run the plugs are still very black with just a touch of dark brown around the insulator. With the afr at 13 they should be damn near perfect?. Should i try and lean it up a touch to try get the top end rpm back? The wash is showing rich as well . Im thinking im just going to have to tune using piston wash/ plug readings and then watch what the afr is on the autotune and set it to match when setting the autotune up. Does this sound right? Yes i have cleaned ves several times, new belt, clutching is all brand new including primary. The rpms stay the same even with 4 gram lighter weights. Thank you!
Autotune AFR issue
- Thread starter tratch2
- Start date
To support what Reg 2 View is saying I have autotune on my Kawasaki motorcycle and can vouch for the potential for a bad O2 sniffer. Bike ran rich all fall until I replaced the sensor. Check the calibration for your garage altitude and if its off get another
I believe they are a bosch made sensor but I thing Dynojet has a very custom plug on them. but it might be worth looking into because you might find one at you local napa.
I believe they are a bosch made sensor but I thing Dynojet has a very custom plug on them. but it might be worth looking into because you might find one at you local napa.
tratch2,
The most important thing to remember is that you are tuning your engine to obtain a chocolate brown plug color and good wash. Your "sensor" might need to see 13.6:1 based on it's location, engine/pipe dynamic, etc., but the burn is optimal there - the reading of your 13.0 is irrelevant, the condition is important.
A 13.0 AFR value attempting to add fuel on the top end may be too rich for the engine.
Also - confirm that your Autotune is turning on where you wish. Check that it is enabled in software, your power source has enough amperage to heat up the sensor (Red LED becomes solid on the Autotune enclosure), your AFR value becomes live on screen, and the Autotune Running indicator turns on when you are operating in a cell where you've populated target AFR values. If these do not happen, your AT will not function.
rrjames,
Dynojet uses a common Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband sensor and we do not alter it in any way to mate with our Autotune/WB2.
~T.J.
The most important thing to remember is that you are tuning your engine to obtain a chocolate brown plug color and good wash. Your "sensor" might need to see 13.6:1 based on it's location, engine/pipe dynamic, etc., but the burn is optimal there - the reading of your 13.0 is irrelevant, the condition is important.
A 13.0 AFR value attempting to add fuel on the top end may be too rich for the engine.
Also - confirm that your Autotune is turning on where you wish. Check that it is enabled in software, your power source has enough amperage to heat up the sensor (Red LED becomes solid on the Autotune enclosure), your AFR value becomes live on screen, and the Autotune Running indicator turns on when you are operating in a cell where you've populated target AFR values. If these do not happen, your AT will not function.
rrjames,
Dynojet uses a common Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband sensor and we do not alter it in any way to mate with our Autotune/WB2.
~T.J.
Sweet, good to know!
Greetings tratch2,
Yes.
The 300 RPM your searching for, was the RPM missing before you installed the PC-V and the AutoTune or after the install?
Did you calibrate your TPS setting on your PC-V?
Describe the location on your pipe that you installed the bung/o2 sensor?
Have fun, Craig
hello
Thanks for all the help everyone, I havnt had a chance to take the sled out and test it anymore, as far as it working properly i believe it all is working great as it is addin/subtracting fuel throughout the rpm range except up top at the 8000 and up. I have it set for 13afr in those cells. 13.5 for everything below. With the sled running the afr read out is correct and it does jump to the cells in the correct rpm. The location of the sensor is near the neck of the pipe about 8 inchs from the flange to the silenser. I followed the instructions as close as i could for the 02 sensor install. Dynojets advise is exactly what i was looking for, im just going to change to a leaner afr in the cells that are rich till i start getting the proper plug color and piston wash. Is that what you would recommend? Or should i just add add a negative -2 or so in those cells? Also, the engine when i first installed it in the sled it ran like garbage. Had a pile of stumbles and bogs but if i was able to get past all that it would apsolutely scream to 8400 with 68 gram weights. Once the autotune was installed it subtracted alotta fuel from all over the map because it was so rich from the small iqr airbox/exhaust system. first hour of riding with the autotune all bogs/ stumbles were gone! Totally worth all the money and the simplicity of tuning. Hopefully this all works out for my rpm issue
Thanks everyone!
Thanks for all the help everyone, I havnt had a chance to take the sled out and test it anymore, as far as it working properly i believe it all is working great as it is addin/subtracting fuel throughout the rpm range except up top at the 8000 and up. I have it set for 13afr in those cells. 13.5 for everything below. With the sled running the afr read out is correct and it does jump to the cells in the correct rpm. The location of the sensor is near the neck of the pipe about 8 inchs from the flange to the silenser. I followed the instructions as close as i could for the 02 sensor install. Dynojets advise is exactly what i was looking for, im just going to change to a leaner afr in the cells that are rich till i start getting the proper plug color and piston wash. Is that what you would recommend? Or should i just add add a negative -2 or so in those cells? Also, the engine when i first installed it in the sled it ran like garbage. Had a pile of stumbles and bogs but if i was able to get past all that it would apsolutely scream to 8400 with 68 gram weights. Once the autotune was installed it subtracted alotta fuel from all over the map because it was so rich from the small iqr airbox/exhaust system. first hour of riding with the autotune all bogs/ stumbles were gone! Totally worth all the money and the simplicity of tuning. Hopefully this all works out for my rpm issue
Thanks everyone!
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B
Bossman
Well-known member
I have found that when the Autotune is enabled, it will try to correct the lean condition that occurs when you decelerate rapidly. Without Autotune, the AFR will become very lean for a second or so when you chop the throttle, but not long enough to hurt the engine. Dyno people build good maps with Autotune by only enabling it while accelerating the engine. Another issue you have is that using an AFR of 13.5 in the lower RPM ranges creates a fuel curve that is too rich. Think of it like this-it takes a certain volume of fuel to accelerate the sled from a stop to top speed if you are just gradually opening the throttle. The ideal AFR below 6750 or so is 14.7, so the 13.5 is adding more fuel than needed to provide the energy required to do the job.
You will get closer to the correct fuel curve if you set the cells below 6750 at 14.7 and "slide" to 12.8 at 7500 and up. Once you have done that save the map you have created to your laptop, unable the Autotune, then use your LCD to data log a few runs and download them to the laptop in the data log file. You can then see what the AFR is at each RPM versus throttle opening thru the entire range. Then compare those readings with your map and make adjustments in the cells that are off, data log another run and adjust if needed. If your AFR sensor is giving you correct readings, there will be no piston wash visible after a 1/4 mile run at 13.2 on those engines, but a small amount of wash at the front and rear transfers at 12.5.
You will get closer to the correct fuel curve if you set the cells below 6750 at 14.7 and "slide" to 12.8 at 7500 and up. Once you have done that save the map you have created to your laptop, unable the Autotune, then use your LCD to data log a few runs and download them to the laptop in the data log file. You can then see what the AFR is at each RPM versus throttle opening thru the entire range. Then compare those readings with your map and make adjustments in the cells that are off, data log another run and adjust if needed. If your AFR sensor is giving you correct readings, there will be no piston wash visible after a 1/4 mile run at 13.2 on those engines, but a small amount of wash at the front and rear transfers at 12.5.
That makes perfect sence! I should have done more reserch on all of this. Thank you for your help! So just to be clear are your saying to set the afr 6750 and lower to around 14 and then gradually get richer towards topend? My midrange is really snappy and pulls hard allway through but just basically stops at the 8050 rpm. A richer wot is going to bring my rpm down alot not? Would me just changing the upper rpm cells to a leaner ratio fix my issue or do you think i should lean out the midrange like you stated? Is this how you have set up maps in the past? Would you happen to have any maps i can reference too?