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A buddy of mine is running a 2009 M1000 with the R/G Twised Turbo......what is the Y/B mode used for?
Attitude Box Y/B mode on M1000?
- Thread starter mt_archery_guy
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i dont use this mode on a M8.....but as far as i know, i believe this M1000 mode is the transition mode for fuel inbetween mid and full RPM???
E
I'm running the M1000 07' R/G with the attitude box and I'm not sure what this Y/B mode is that you're talking about?
C
yes, or another way of looking at it is the yellow/blue mod on Attitude TM-1000s, controls the switch point from green to yellow mode. The larger the number, the sooner it switches from green to yellow mode. I do wish this info came with the kits, it would save some initial tuning issues, given all the possibilities for this mode function.
I'm still in a learning mode myself, but getting it figured out though.
I also got some good info regarding M-1000 low end blubber, but I'm still testing before I'm ready to say what it is or exactly how much it helps just yet.
Need some dawg gone snow!
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C
yes, or another way of looking at it is the yellow/blue mod on Attitude TM-1000s, controls the switch point from green to yellow mode. The larger the number, the sooner it switches from green to yellow mode. I do wish this info came with the kits, it would save some initial tuning issues, given all the possibilities for this mode function.
I'm still in a learning mode myself, but getting it figured out though.
I also got some good info regarding M-1000 low end blubber, but I'm still testing before I'm ready to say what it is or exactly how much it helps just yet.
Need some dawg gone snow!
Okay, I advanced the TPS (Throttle Position sensor) just a touch, approximately 2 or 3 scribe lines and it really helped clean up the bottom end. First, scribed a line across the aluminum housing and the plastic cover. Next, completely loosen the idle stop set and with the sled off loosen the two phillips head screws and move the black plastic cover clockwise (while standing on the turbo side of the sled). Don't move it very far or it will throw a code; as stated above 2 or 3 scribe lines and try it. Set idle to 1800 to 2000 RPM. You will most likely have to change some of your current Additude box settings. This had a pronounsed (positive) effect on my sleds bottom end response, especially while boondocking. Make sure you scribe it before move the TPS so you always have your baseline.
I cannot take credit for this, I acquired the information from OVS.
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Can you elaborate on the scribe line,I asume it is like a blonde hair or a red hair?? Move it very like,clock wise or anti-clock wise or is it self explanitory?
That is about the only problem I have with the MT1000,is trying to crisp up the bottom end,then were 100%.
That is about the only problem I have with the MT1000,is trying to crisp up the bottom end,then were 100%.
C
I used a sharp "prick punch" used for center punching a hole prior to drilling, about the width of an ultra fine ballpoint pen. I guess a blond hair with extra hair spray built up on it would be about the same.
As stated, move the black plastic cover (clockwise) while standing looking at the throttle bodies, from the turbo (right hand side) of the sled. Now, this is not a fix all, but combined with proper green, yellow, and yellow/blue numbers it really cleaned the bottom end up for me. Box numbers and fuel pressure vary a lot. Fuel pressure gauge accuracy, or lack of it, varies as well. I am running my green number rather low and my yellow/blue rather high. I would bump the green number up a bit when climbing a longer hard climb so as not to sqeek a piston coming back down. Hope this helps.
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