Attack Angle On Track
- Thread starter RIP 191
- Start date
Where is the best place to get rail extentions? If I go from a 136 to a 144 do I need a tunnel extention, or can I just take off my flap?
Depending on the sled you should be able to slide the skid back in the tunnel and tie the flap up or rip it off. I would suggest keeping the flap as some sleds tend to overheat. You can tie it up with a bungee or something. What sled? PM maybe I can talk you through it?
hey sled-guy
Changing "static" attack angle doesn't necessarily get you what you want. You want to change the dynamic attack angle... what it is when you apply power. Take an Edge RMK with a Holz rear suspension in it. Looking at it sitting on the driveway it has a terribly steep attack angle. But there isn't much that I have ever tried that gets up on the snow better than a Holz rear skid
Is the HOLZ a good ditch banging hard aggressive bump/not to many jumps kind of suspension
Changing "static" attack angle doesn't necessarily get you what you want. You want to change the dynamic attack angle... what it is when you apply power. Take an Edge RMK with a Holz rear suspension in it. Looking at it sitting on the driveway it has a terribly steep attack angle. But there isn't much that I have ever tried that gets up on the snow better than a Holz rear skid
Is the HOLZ a good ditch banging hard aggressive bump/not to many jumps kind of suspension
Trailing arm tangent caster angle is what I've been adjusting to get better deep snow launch. Yes
You've gotta be kidding me. Castor Tangent Angle? So basically you changed the degree of rake in your spindles? Ya, I guess I can totally see how that would improve your approach angle and deep snow launch....If I look at it from a long ways away...and I squint my eyes....really really tight....ya I can totally see how that works now.
SHMO
F
flying pig
Well-known member
going from a 136-144 requires a 3.5" set back. Was the width of the polaris front mount plates, between the rivet holes. Use your old rear holes as your new front holes. your tunnel is tapered from the front to the back so you'll need to keep your rear mounting hole the same depth from the top of the tunnel on a non kicked tunnel. Its a bit harder to do on a Dual Angle Tunnel. on a DAT u'll need to take note of how high the rear bumper sits form the floor and build suitable mounting plates to keep it the same. Pulling your skid back like this does hurt weight transfer. Remember though when you're climbing you want your skis to hover, not lift. excessive ski lift wastes horse power. I've done this to all of my mod chassis and it works great.
Don't you know? If you take the inverse cosine of the tangent angle and multiply it by the radius of the final camber degree, the result is one third proportional to the castor tangent angle which you then have to multiply by 3to arrive at the correct value. It's simple math.
what about the vector angle of the wind load.....seems you guys left out the important stuff.
You guys are absolutely right. That is exactly what I was trying to do, simple math that should go something like this....
A+(B/C)= A minus BS
BS being the common denominator on most treads like these. I was just trying to subtract that out...haha
SHMO
A+(B/C)= A minus BS
BS being the common denominator on most treads like these. I was just trying to subtract that out...haha
SHMO
S
snoboy
Active member
Don't you know? If you take the inverse cosine of the tangent angle and multiply it by the radius of the final camber degree, the result is one third proportional to the castor tangent angle which you then have to multiply by 3to arrive at the correct value. It's simple math.
That's what I'm sayin!!!
Less prime rib over the center of the machine helps too.
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muffler bearing attack angle- help
just kidding, rip191 . i have a 99 mm and i installed a kit on mine to do the skid slide,151. mountain performance sells a complete kit you just have to pick track length. the kit upgrades you to the 2000 17 degree approach angle, over 21 stock. hartman inc. has some stuff too. you can run rail extensions instead of buying complete new rails if they will sell kit without new rails
just kidding, rip191 . i have a 99 mm and i installed a kit on mine to do the skid slide,151. mountain performance sells a complete kit you just have to pick track length. the kit upgrades you to the 2000 17 degree approach angle, over 21 stock. hartman inc. has some stuff too. you can run rail extensions instead of buying complete new rails if they will sell kit without new rails
the holz suspension is designed for a few things. it is progressive, so most women don't like it becuase they think it rides too rough.
However, when you hit a little bump, you feel it a little. when you hit a big bump, it doesn't bag out and crush your spine, it absorbs the vast majority of the bump.
the holz suspension climbs up on the snow better then anything else. That's a fact.
The holz suspension is lighter then most.
The holz suspension transfers a LOT. this is generally good for the boondocker / ditchbanger.
The holz suspension carries speed through bumps as you climb hills. this is a VERY good thing.
if you have a 136 suspension, and put a 144 track under, and just move your suspension back, you effectively still have a 136 foot print.
myself, i moved my suspension forward for a bigger footprint.
