assault shocks work for RMK
- Thread starter j9845
- Start date
The skid shocks will work. The fronts are too long on the assault. This will be my first year running these shocks but everything I have read says they are good for stock shocks.
If i was just buying upgrade shocks I would definitely go with exits or raptors without hesitation. You are going to be into assault shocks probably at least $800 so you are halfway to a full set of top of the line shocks that are custom built for you and your sled.
If i was just buying upgrade shocks I would definitely go with exits or raptors without hesitation. You are going to be into assault shocks probably at least $800 so you are halfway to a full set of top of the line shocks that are custom built for you and your sled.
E
edavis0202
Well-known member
The fronts will work, all you need to do is have them shorten by either Carls or Walker Evans, I think its around $80/shock...this is great option for people not wanting to spend big money on aftermarket shocks.
I know a guy who has some for sale if interested PM me and I will forward you the info.
I know a guy who has some for sale if interested PM me and I will forward you the info.
J
j9845
Member
Thanks guys for the input. I might go the cheaper direction just due to the fact that this is my first year on a pro-ride. I kind of testing the waters to see if it can do what i want it to do. I usually put a long track and my IQR. The biggest thing im concerned about is can the sled take a beating..
When riding in the mountians i mostly go for the big jumps and drop offs before pulling hills or boondocking.
When riding in the mountians i mostly go for the big jumps and drop offs before pulling hills or boondocking.
You will loose travel doing this.
what happens when a shock is too long? stance is tighter and the spindles are tilted outwards more?
Can make you RMK shocks done as Piggybacks. They have a kit to put the reservoirs on the RMK shocks. My dealer is going to do mine... Walker Evens...
The longer shocks would bottom out quick....
Ain't worth it!
Ya can get a used set of W.E. needle's for cheap. Then you have a capable 5/8 shaft shock for the price you're gonna pay to attempt to fix you're cheapo 1/2" shocks.
im not getting how a 10 inch travel shock will bottom faster than a soft valved 9 inch travel shock?
Because the compressed length is longer.
go with the walker evans shocks
I would say go with the walker evans assault shocks and a wider front end if you want to huck. I had both the assault and a pro last year.
I put raptors on my pro
The raptors are better than the stock pro shocks.
For hucking the assault shocks are way better because of the longer travel.
IMO
I would say go with the walker evans assault shocks and a wider front end if you want to huck. I had both the assault and a pro last year.
I put raptors on my pro
The raptors are better than the stock pro shocks.
For hucking the assault shocks are way better because of the longer travel.
IMO
You can put 21" long shocks on and they will work but they will be compressed because of the shorter rmk a arms. IMO you should look for a assault front end that someone replaced with aftermarket parts. The narrow rmk arms are not going to feel very stable on take offs or landings it you are used to riding a iqr. You might be able to use your iqr a arms on your pro and then the assault shocks should work.
R
RPS
Well-known member
Shock fitment...
Guys, here’s my $.02 after a few years of tinkering on the said issue and here’s some of our best practices that we use to set our shocks up. Be very careful when installing any shock absorber that isn’t the exact same length as your production piece and in the event that you do here are a couple things to look out for. First always take the spring off the shock and install it in the vehicle this will give you a bird’s eye view of what to expect from a fit standpoint and if it’s even feasible that the extended length is even close to working. Next make sure the front of the vehicle is off the ground and your shocks are at full rebound. Now check your steering from lock to lock to make sure you have sufficient misalignment in your steering components along with your upper and lower ball joints. Let’s face it no one wants to die here and trust me if your steering locks up or you snap a tie rod end at speed you will yard sale your sled… The next thing you want to do is check and make sure your swaybar does not over center this can cost you a weekend and a bunch of parts on a Monday morning at your local dealership. After you’ve been through your checklist at full extension now compress the frontend to full jounce (bottom) with the shocks metal on metal simply meaning remove the jounce bumper from the shock shaft if equipped. Now do the same as you did at full rebound turn the steering lock to lock and make sure there are no obstructions or binding in the steering or upper and lower ball joints in any way that could cause a failure leading you to destroying your sled. If you follow these easy steps and your confident that you have no issues you should be good to go from a fit standpoint. As far as how the shocks will work that obviously depends on the setup and depending on the motion ratio that they were calibrated around it could be a bit of a crap shoot..?
We always try to set our shock packages up with the longest shocks we can get away with to maximize the amount of travel that we can achieve out of a given system. We feel more is better and the more suspension travel you have the more duration you have to absorb a given event which typically lends itself to a more compliant ride. The biggest thing with adding more travel is to control the ride height and we use multi rate springs along with a couple other tricks to make it all work. Anyways I hope this helps and if you have questions let us know. Thanks, Jake
Guys, here’s my $.02 after a few years of tinkering on the said issue and here’s some of our best practices that we use to set our shocks up. Be very careful when installing any shock absorber that isn’t the exact same length as your production piece and in the event that you do here are a couple things to look out for. First always take the spring off the shock and install it in the vehicle this will give you a bird’s eye view of what to expect from a fit standpoint and if it’s even feasible that the extended length is even close to working. Next make sure the front of the vehicle is off the ground and your shocks are at full rebound. Now check your steering from lock to lock to make sure you have sufficient misalignment in your steering components along with your upper and lower ball joints. Let’s face it no one wants to die here and trust me if your steering locks up or you snap a tie rod end at speed you will yard sale your sled… The next thing you want to do is check and make sure your swaybar does not over center this can cost you a weekend and a bunch of parts on a Monday morning at your local dealership. After you’ve been through your checklist at full extension now compress the frontend to full jounce (bottom) with the shocks metal on metal simply meaning remove the jounce bumper from the shock shaft if equipped. Now do the same as you did at full rebound turn the steering lock to lock and make sure there are no obstructions or binding in the steering or upper and lower ball joints in any way that could cause a failure leading you to destroying your sled. If you follow these easy steps and your confident that you have no issues you should be good to go from a fit standpoint. As far as how the shocks will work that obviously depends on the setup and depending on the motion ratio that they were calibrated around it could be a bit of a crap shoot..?
We always try to set our shock packages up with the longest shocks we can get away with to maximize the amount of travel that we can achieve out of a given system. We feel more is better and the more suspension travel you have the more duration you have to absorb a given event which typically lends itself to a more compliant ride. The biggest thing with adding more travel is to control the ride height and we use multi rate springs along with a couple other tricks to make it all work. Anyways I hope this helps and if you have questions let us know. Thanks, Jake
So why is it not worth it....
$400 to upgrade mine
Not sure what the cost of Assault WE's are but would have to have the shaft shortened. I am sure the cost of the shocks and the mod would cost far more than the upgrade..
But maybe I am missing something... Please let me know...
assault shocks
I am running a Assault front track shock in my 12 pro rmk and found it to be a hugh improvement on rear skid. The rear doesn't sag out now and I have more than enough adjustability on the firmness with the clicker for the riding I'm doing. I'm a heavier rider and ride aggressive as well but am getting to old for big jumps or big air. I believe assault front shocks are to long to install into pro and work properly with out changing to wider front end.
I am running a Assault front track shock in my 12 pro rmk and found it to be a hugh improvement on rear skid. The rear doesn't sag out now and I have more than enough adjustability on the firmness with the clicker for the riding I'm doing. I'm a heavier rider and ride aggressive as well but am getting to old for big jumps or big air. I believe assault front shocks are to long to install into pro and work properly with out changing to wider front end.
Has anyone gone with the Exit replacement springs for use on the stock shocks.
For 325 bucks it seems like a good deal. Also suppose to be able to use on their own shock if you want to make the upgrade after.
For 325 bucks it seems like a good deal. Also suppose to be able to use on their own shock if you want to make the upgrade after.
Why would you rate my post that states you will loose travel length by shortening the shocks bad!?? That's just a fact in dong so! Longer arms are needed with the assault shocks, as you almost said yourself, to maintain travel (+1" front for Assault). WTF!
