Aro ski modification

needpowder · Feb 1, 2018

Wanted to start a new thread on this. I think the aro ski handles great on the snow. Good on the trail and doesnt wash out in the powder nearly as easy as the old ski. However, any log, rock, pavement, etc. will cause the ski to hang up badly causing spindle damage and possibly fork damage. I believe this is caused by the gargantuan u shaped middle runner. What i don’t know is how much this big runner contributes to the excellent handling. I modified mine by grinding it down significantly and it seems better going over obstacles and across pavement. Definitely not as good still as my old ski with triple gold skag. It doesn’t seem to have any negative handling effects but its hard to tell because conditions changed between test times. I am looking forward to hear results when people get the triple point for the aro when it’s available. I’m sure it will go over obstacles better but worry that the ski might wash easier in the powder.

Motogeek33 · Feb 1, 2018

needpowder said:
Wanted to start a new thread on this. I think the aro ski handles great on the snow. Good on the trail and doesnt wash out in the powder nearly as easy as the old ski. However, any log, rock, pavement, etc. will cause the ski to hang up badly causing spindle damage and possibly fork damage. I believe this is caused by the gargantuan u shaped middle runner. What i don’t know is how much this big runner contributes to the excellent handling. I modified mine by grinding it down significantly and it seems better going over obstacles and across pavement. Definitely not as good still as my old ski with triple gold skag. It doesn’t seem to have any negative handling effects but its hard to tell because conditions changed between test times. I am looking forward to hear results when people get the triple point for the aro when it’s available. I’m sure it will go over obstacles better but worry that the ski might wash easier in the powder.

You're on the right track to grind it down and taper the approach angle. That was needed on the old ski and the new one as well. As far as powder handling, I don't thing the center skag does much for you. It's there mostly for hardpack and ice, but powder handling probably won't be affected whether it's u-channel or triple carbide or no skag at all.

needpowder · Feb 1, 2018

Motogeek33 said:
You're on the right track to grind it down and taper the approach angle. That was needed on the old ski and the new one as well. As far as powder handling, I don't thing the center skag does much for you. It's there mostly for hardpack and ice, but powder handling probably won't be affected whether it's u-channel or triple carbide or no skag at all.

I was thinking next decent pow day i would ridd for a bit and then take the runner completely off and see. Problem here in utah is the forecast. It’s alot easier to find rocks and logs to test it on.

chumbilly1 · Feb 1, 2018

Same thing we did with the yeti wearbar. Little more forgiving and doesnt catch on $hit.

skidooboy · Feb 1, 2018

I did the taper and grind on my aro ski but, still wanted to make the ski less aggressive on the hardpack/trail. i had a fab buddy of mine cut the center u channel, flat, and weld a single runner in to the flat stock. (temp fix until we get a triple carbide, like they make for the older TS skis). i also had him custom cut, and weld studs for single outer carbides as well. he has it done but, i haven't had time to install and test.

should have a report after feb 20th. Ski

powdermuncher · Feb 1, 2018

If I do not get my tripple point Carbides soon I will do the same thing myselve.

needpowder · Feb 1, 2018

Jesus christ, someone please give the triple carbide (cant keep up with demand) guy some competition. Maybe make a double carbide or a quadruple carbide, or just a single carbide. Cant believe we’re waiting to pay a hundred bucks for a little piece of steel.

needpowder · Feb 1, 2018

By the way, the old ts runners are a direct fit for the outside runners.

powdermuncher · Feb 2, 2018

I sold mine with the old setup

jmmx828 · Feb 3, 2018

I did the same cut and grind after bending my spindle on a rock, didn’t seem to make a difference on the trail or in the powder after making the cut

CATSLEDMAN1 · Feb 4, 2018

single now

several of us have been testing an ARO single runner. I am on about my third mod on the single blade idea. Not pefect, and I am not too impressed I guess.

I am sure a single blade of the correct config will be better than a 1/2" round host bar with little dinkly three carbides. I considered taking my three carbide runner off my old ts ski and trying to mount it up. Just not enough positive grab I think. Now we have been having 12" of new a week and riding in deep new snow all day and the single blade is great, but I think you could remove all the metal on the center in these conditions and have great deep snow handling.

Its critical where on the center you have the most blade height, currently I rockered my center blade ala my favorite hockey skates and narrowed my blade to almost the same as a hockey blade, still a little busy on icy roads but getting there.

powdermuncher · Feb 4, 2018

If I can get it to work as well as on my old ski I will be happy with the triple point, That little bit of carbide slings a sled around just fine why would it not work in a bike.

I agree on the rocker, but the hight on the swag is most definitely also a problem. The long arm between the centre skag and the mounting bolt to the spindle forces the ski tip down anytime the skag makes contact with gravel rocks or fallen trees. Camso tried to address this by having a much lower mounting point of their axle.

CATSLEDMAN1 · Feb 5, 2018

triple carbide

when I looked my triple cabide over after a year, the carbide was only sticking up about .040", so turning in snow was left to a 1/2 of round stock and that little bit of carbide. I don't think that size and config will improve the aro ski.

If you built a single blade and had carbide on the cutting edge, might be good, might wear longer. So when I built my first couple of single blade setups I wasn't concerned about how long it would wear, if it worked great I would order carbide and silver solder it on. So far 6 or 8 all day rides the mild steel runner has no sign of wear. No carbide ordered yet because I'm still tinkering with a design.

needpowder · Feb 5, 2018

CATSLEDMAN1 said:
when I looked my triple cabide over after a year, the carbide was only sticking up about .040", so turning in snow was left to a 1/2 of round stock and that little bit of carbide. I don't think that size and config will improve the aro ski.

If you built a single blade and had carbide on the cutting edge, might be good, might wear longer. So when I built my first couple of single blade setups I wasn't concerned about how long it would wear, if it worked great I would order carbide and silver solder it on. So far 6 or 8 all day rides the mild steel runner has no sign of wear. No carbide ordered yet because I'm still tinkering with a design.

Agree. The old triple carbide even if it fit on the new ski would probably do nothing for performance. It would basically be keeping the bottom of the ski smooth and keeping the plastic from wearing. Im glad you’re experimenting and look forward to your final results. Although, i know you guys are having an epic season so you’ll have to test by pushing the bike around in a heated garage?
What im kinda picturing is the same design of the triple just taller maybe. I don’t think the two outside runners are gonna be too smooth this spring either when we start running over long dirt patches.

powdermuncher · Feb 5, 2018

The Round wear bars have a definite performance advantage by reducing drag over the U channel runner dramatically in some conditions less in others. The biggest performance gain is when your buddy hits a ice patch and craters hard and the carbid's on your triple point keep you from doing the same -- ask me how I know.

BendBrapp · Feb 6, 2018

Just rode my new ARO ski mounted up my 450sxf/120MH. I cut/grinded the center as many have. Loving the float and the side runners let me carve harder/lower than I’ve ever been able to. I clipped a few logs and rocks and the ski glided right over them. I think the cut and grind works nice. I did experience the before and after for using my timbersled loading ramp and it made all the difference.

M5- · Feb 7, 2018

Honestly, you think they would have this stuff figured out before coming to market. Do any of these companies do ANY testing on anything?

M5

needpowder · Feb 7, 2018

BendBrapp said:
Just rode my new ARO ski mounted up my 450sxf/120MH. I cut/grinded the center as many have. Loving the float and the side runners let me carve harder/lower than I’ve ever been able to. I clipped a few logs and rocks and the ski glided right over them. I think the cut and grind works nice. I did experience the before and after for using my timbersled loading ramp and it made all the difference.

The cut and grind definitely helps. I still find it hanging up on stuff pretty good though. NW style snow is a different animal. It’s definitely fun to be able to aim for bumps and jump off them. In Utah if you aim for a bump you smash a rock. Even with 600 inches last year it was still easy to find rocks to hit. Just the nature of our snow here. Makes having a ski that will glide over stuff a bit more important.

CATSLEDMAN1 · Feb 7, 2018

single center

I had my ski back off fooling with my latest single skeg modifications.

Here are some pictures.

The picture of the four skegs is left to right.
stock

first built using 1/2 and 3/4 flat bar with skeg basiclly the same height as stock u channel.

same construction but bar height cut down

last on right is latest, easiest to build with rocker skeg, highest skeg point behind the center balance point of ski.

easiest build is 1" x .085 sq tube, cut tube lengthwise the height to give the ski side support. notch cut tube at area of front and rear bend, easy bend then in vise and weld that joint. I used a piece of 3/4 sq aluminum stock and drilled the skeg mount holes in the stock by putting the aluminum under the ski and marking hole locations with locating punch. cut 2" 3/8" ready rod pieces for mounting bolts. drill 3/8" hole through the host channel, used 1" bit on topside of 3/8 holes to bevel holes, put 2" studs through aluminum spacer bar, set host channel on studs and turn your wire feed welder heat up
and weld the top side of the studs in the beveled holes, grind flat.
I hand cut the skeg from 3/4" 085 flat bar and played with it bending and fitting until I liked the overall fit. Put host channel back in aluminum bar with tightened nuts and weld center skeg on with tacks on each side to keep it sq vertical.