Arctic Cat Secondary Shift Assist Install

[Arctic Thunder]

After eating a belt I started really looking into my secondary clutching. Here is the story and maybe it will help someone else.

(PS, I sure like that Dayco 1 year $15 replacement guarentee, got my new belt in the mail today, no questions asked)

Anyway.

2009 M1000
Installed a new Twisted Race gas turbo kit this summer. This included all the extra motor mounts and the clutching for the kit.


After eating the belt last weekend I took my secondary off and tore it down. I had both the washers in the helix, had the white spacer on the shaft and the shift assist bearing that Shane supplied with the kit.

I took the spring out and moved the clutch all the way to full shift. I noticed that the belt could fall all the way down into the secondary even to the point the belt would hit the helix. ( I am pretty sure this is what ate the belt)

I pulled the secondary from my 2010 M8 HCR and ripped the secondary apart on it. I put the helix back in with out a spring and it open until the belt just reached the flat surfaces inside the secondary. Right where it should be.

So I started to compare parts. My M1000 helix was identical to the stock helix in every dimension (exept angle of course).

The stock M8 didn't have the shift assist installed like my TM1000.

I noticed the white spacer on the stock sled was sitting ONTOP of the black stock spacer under the spring. And on my TM1000 the white spacer was inside the ID of the shift assist bearing.

So my Tm1000 was over shifting by .153", the thickness of the spacer.

So what I did was left the black stock .153" thick spacer in the clutch, set the white spacer down on the stock spacer, then installed the shift assist bearing. This then would reduce my avalable clearance for coil bind by .153" so I removed one of the two spacers in the helix, they are also .153" thick.

So now my full shift is right where it should be, my clearance for my spring is back to normal and my belt rides in the bottom of the secondary at the right position.

Anyway thought I would pass this along. I know some of the guys with the shift assist have the one with the smaller ID, but some have the larger ID, if the white spacer fits inside your Shift Assist bearing you will over shift.

Thunder

 

[Hardass]

I have several of the white spacers here and when checking there tapered one end fits in and the other end does not?

 

[Hardass]

I don't have all the belt problems every one else is having? i have my white spacer installed so it sits in the id of the shift assist bearing thinking thats is a centering devise for the bearing. How ever i run 2 of the plastic spacer in the top of my helix sooooo....

 

[Hardass]

As im just learning here Whats being said is the white spacer is what hold your secondary from opening to far.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

As im just learning here Whats being said is the white spacer is what hold your secondary from opening to far.

Yea. If it is inside your shift assist bearing you will over shift. not good on belts.

Thunder

 

[Hardass]

So are all the spacers tapered? i mean the bearing will slide almost halfway on then stops on the ones i have here, and even when the big end is set on the bearing its not by alot.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

So are all the spacers tapered? i mean the bearing will slide almost halfway on then stops on the ones i have here, and even when the big end is set on the bearing its not by alot.

Mine is that way also. I think it is more a minor flaw in the fabrication of the spacer.

I know if I was to install it so it just caught the "edge" of the shift assist bearing it would surely roll the edge of the bearing over and that wouldn't be good either.

Thunder

 

[Hardass]

How can we find out they seem to be all the same for a reason.I'm not in the shop but doesnt it fit through the black spacers the same?

 

[Arctic Thunder]

How can we find out they seem to be all the same for a reason.I'm not in the shop but doesnt it fit through the black spacers the same?

I don't know if it really matters. My opinion is you don't want your white spacer slipping through the shift assist bearing. And one way it slips right through, the other way it catches by a few thousandths. You don't want it to "just" catch. it will damage the inner race of the shift assist bearing if it isn't supported well.

I think the best fix at this time is to have a new spacer made that is .153" longer than the stock one, and the OD of the spacer such that it slips inside the shift assist bearing.

The other fix is to do what I did.
Leave the plastic stock shim under the white spacer, pull the spacer off, put on the shift assist bearing, then slide the white spacer back on so it now goes through the bearing and is seated on the stock shim again. then remove one of the two black spacers in the end of the helix to maintain the proper spring clearance.

Will give it a try this weekend.

For the most part you shouldn't ever shift out this far, once the belt gets to the top of the primary that's it. But if you are messing around on a road dragging or on a climb and hit a icy spot, it will shift out QUICKLY and it will pull the belt all the way down into the secondary. And I have seen the belt try and follow around the secondary and hit the helix, and then it slips like crazy and rips the inside cooling teeth from the belt. I don't know if a person would see this very often on a stock sled. They run enough helix angle and are set pretty close on clutching that you just about can't get it to pull hard enought to bottom out the secondary. But on a boosted sled with 250+hp, it gets a bit easier to do. and it will try and squeeze the belt out of the primary.

Thunder

 

[Hardass]

Ya like i said i have 2 shims in mine so no problem i guess. good to find these type of things though. clutch heat would sky rocket withh the secondary open to far i would think.

 

[av8er]

Thunder- you installed it wrong to begin with

the Shift assist is to replace the stock plastic spacer. not go in, in addition to the stock spacer.

 

[Hardass]

I'm pretty sure we know that.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

the Shift assist is to replace the stock plastic spacer. not go in, in addition to the stock spacer.

Yea, I know what your saying. but if you do it exactly like the instructions say, you will be run the risk of over shifting your secondary and blowing belts.

(this is with the shift assist bearing that I was supplied, others might be different)

Thunder

 

[INDEEP]

Seems strange D&D would have you install it this way but I'm not sure it matters. A compressed spring, 2 helix washers and the shift assist bearing must be taller than the white spacer bushing. IMO the tapered white bushing setting inside the bearing just centers it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0OqHGGXtasY&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[Whimp]

spacer

Ive been running with out the white spacer for 3 years now. no problems

 

[INDEEP]

Yup that's the way mine is. No white bushing but the black spacer is still under the shift assist. I thought is was part of my belt issues but after measuring, the spring can't compress that much. I'm still going to throw the white bushing back in.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

Under normal operation I don't think you will EVER need the white spacer in the secondary. Again if your Center to center is correct, as your primary shifts out all the way, the belt will only pull down into the secondary so far.

The problem is if you are messing around and have 240+hp, and bang the throttle and slam the primary open it will throw the belt right out of the primary and suck the belt down onto the helix in the secondary (because you took the spacer out, or because it is now to short because it inside your shift assist bearing) and you will blow the belt right off. Been their done that.

So yes, under normal conditions no issues. Under extreme situations Problems.

I think during the spring riding season this is also an issue. When pulling 75+MPH track speed in a climb, you hit an icy spot and spin out it will again suck the belt down to far into the secondary and BAM their ya go.

As for the stack height of the spring compresses, washers, etc. The spacer hits on the longer section of the helix, so just take your secondary apart and grab a dial caliper and start measuring things in different positions you'll soon find out the issues.

Thunder

 

[mbcat]

After eating a belt I started really looking into my secondary clutching. Here is the story and maybe it will help someone else.

(PS, I sure like that Dayco 1 year $15 replacement guarentee, got my new belt in the mail today, no questions asked)

Anyway.

2009 M1000
Installed a new Twisted Race gas turbo kit this summer. This included all the extra motor mounts and the clutching for the kit.


After eating the belt last weekend I took my secondary off and tore it down. I had both the washers in the helix, had the white spacer on the shaft and the shift assist bearing that Shane supplied with the kit.

I took the spring out and moved the clutch all the way to full shift. I noticed that the belt could fall all the way down into the secondary even to the point the belt would hit the helix. ( I am pretty sure this is what ate the belt)

I pulled the secondary from my 2010 M8 HCR and ripped the secondary apart on it. I put the helix back in with out a spring and it open until the belt just reached the flat surfaces inside the secondary. Right where it should be.

So I started to compare parts. My M1000 helix was identical to the stock helix in every dimension (exept angle of course).

The stock M8 didn't have the shift assist installed like my TM1000.

I noticed the white spacer on the stock sled was sitting ONTOP of the black stock spacer under the spring. And on my TM1000 the white spacer was inside the ID of the shift assist bearing.

So my Tm1000 was over shifting by .153", the thickness of the spacer.

So what I did was left the black stock .153" thick spacer in the clutch, set the white spacer down on the stock spacer, then installed the shift assist bearing. This then would reduce my avalable clearance for coil bind by .153" so I removed one of the two spacers in the helix, they are also .153" thick.

So now my full shift is right where it should be, my clearance for my spring is back to normal and my belt rides in the bottom of the secondary at the right position.

Anyway thought I would pass this along. I know some of the guys with the shift assist have the one with the smaller ID, but some have the larger ID, if the white spacer fits inside your Shift Assist bearing you will over shift.

Thunder

Just a suggestion, try a FORMULA X-1 secondary kit! Running one on my CF 700 with 1.75 backcountry and no more secondary issues. You do not need a shift assist with his set up, it just works! Instant backshift and AWSOME ACCELLERATION!

 

[Arctic Thunder]

Just a suggestion, try a FORMULA X-1 secondary kit! Running one on my CF 700 with 1.75 backcountry and no more secondary issues. You do not need a shift assist with his set up, it just works! Instant backshift and AWSOME ACCELLERATION!

So how do you think that will work with a Twisted Turbo running 220+ hp?

To be 100% honest I think the slight adjustment I had to make to get the secondary dialed has fixed my clutching problems. I have well over 700 miles on my current belt and still running strong. Pulling 75+MPH track speed in all conditions when climbing.

I think I nailed it with my clutching right now.

But tell us more about the formula x-1 kit. always interested in other stuff.

Thunder

 

[mbcat]

So how do you think that will work with a Twisted Turbo running 220+ hp?

To be 100% honest I think the slight adjustment I had to make to get the secondary dialed has fixed my clutching problems. I have well over 700 miles on my current belt and still running strong. Pulling 75+MPH track speed in all conditions when climbing.

I think I nailed it with my clutching right now.

But tell us more about the formula x-1 kit. always interested in other stuff.

Thunder

MEL'S FORMULA X-1. com , I just know it works on my 700 and buddies 010 800ho. Mel also rebuilds secondaries, installs wider bushing, turns hub and installs a steel sleeve. I realize i run 80+ less hp but buddies 800 has 25 hp more than me and we have the exact same set up. He turns 8050-8200 and i turn 7850-8050. I have stm mounts for the 800 in my engine plate with snopro mount on mag side. Cutler adj weights, purple\white or gold white primary spring. Thunder ABC kit and glide washers, cut cups in primary and a new stock secondary with the X-1 kit. I run a ultimax xs 801. Few mods in engine 140 or less hp. Out accellerates buddies 800 ho, 010 nytro xtx with the same backcountry. Alot of guys running it on trails etc, i just tried it out to get rid of ****ty backshift and it works in 3-4 feet of powder in our swamps as well as hardpack. Only 250 bucks!