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Arctic Cat M's are good for trail riding at best.

C

crimsonride

Member
Now that I got you looking you can tell me what's wrong with mine and why I can't ride it but on the trail under 6K RPMs.

It's ran great till today. Ran great for the first hour (although the cluster was shorting out). Then it started bogging and I started getting the check engine light... Flashed six times on or off the throttle. I though it was possible the barometric pressure hose had a problem, moved that around and blew it out with no improvement. I had read that the brake light can short out and cause an issue so I traced the wire and unplugged it and that fixed the problem of the cluster shorting out.

Oddly, if you shut it down and restart it it runs great. It'll continue to run great unless you get on the throttle. I can get about one and a half carves down before the light comes on and it bogs. It runs great and then the light comes on, instantly when the light comes on it bogs. If I don't get on the throttle it'll run fine for as long as I like. Rode it all four or five miles back under six K RPMs with no problem at all.

Any info would help.

Thanks
-Chris
 
Not sure what year your M is but I had an '06 M7 that had a seizure session where it would run great for about 15 seconds and then fall on its face. Ended up being something internal that shifted or burned out in my aftermarket can. Put the stocker back on and it was fine.

I also had an '07 M1000 that lost its gauges and went into limp mode. Turned out to be that the fuse on top of the regulator worked loose. Hope this helps.
 
alright, well, that's something. I'll look into it and see what I can find. I really don't want to miss any riding so i might just take it to the dealer. Just hoping someone knows what the six flashes of the check engine light means.

thanks

it's an 05 by the way.
 
My guess is you are going into limp mode. Then restart and clear it for awhile. Power valves can even cause that.
 
Six flashes = power valve problem. Check to make sure that the cables are still in adjustment.

Easy fix unless its a bad servo motor. I've been around this block a few times so if you need help let me know.
 
this is 07..should possibly be the same..

Check Engine Light
(Crossfire/F-Series/
M-Series Models)
The Check Engine Light is controlled by the ECU and
may illuminate for a number of reasons. The light
should illuminate each time the key is turned to RUN
or START, and it should go out when the engine starts.
If the light stays illuminated or it illuminates while the
engine is running, the ECU is receiving input that is
outside of its established parameters.
Diagnostic Codes/
Check Engine
(Crossfire/F-Series/
M-Series Models)
These diagnostic codes are flashed by the check engine
light incorporated within the speedometer/tachometer.
Refer to the following chart for diagnostic code
sequences.
NOTE: On single-digit codes (2, 4, etc.), the number
indicated will flash in an uninterrupted
sequence. On double-digit codes (1-2, 1-6, etc.), the
first number indicated will flash in an uninterrupted
sequence, there will be a short pause, and the second
number indicated will flash in an uninterrupted
sequence.
If the coolant temperature is at or above 80° C (176°
F), the coolant temperature light will flash a warning
(alert). If the coolant temperature is at or above 93° C
(200° F), the coolant temperature light will cease flashing
and will remain constantly illuminated.
Number of Flashes Trouble
1-2
(Check Engine Light)
Failure in ignition coil.
1-6
(Check Engine Light)
Incorrect adjustment/failure in
APV cable.
1-7
(Check Engine Light)
Failure in exhaust temperature
sensor.
1-8
(Check Engine Light)
Failure in servomotor.
2
(Check Engine Light)
Failure in injector(s).
2-1
(Check Engine Light)
Failure in knock sensor.
2-3
(Check Engine Light)
Failure in knock control system.
4
(Check Engine Light)
Open or short circuit in barometric
pressure sensor.
5
(Check Engine Light)
Open or short circuit in intake air
temperature sensor.
6
(Check Engine Light)
Open or short circuit in water
temperature sensor.
7
(Check Engine Light)
Open or short circuit in throttle
position sensor.
Steady Flash
(Coolant Temperature Light)
Coolant Temperature Above 80°
C (176° F).
Constant On
(Coolant Temperature Light)
Coolant Temperature Above 93°
C (200° F).
Back Back to TOC Back

this is for the wrench icon

Chassis Control Unit
(Crossfire/F-Series/
M-Series Models)
The Chassis Control Icon may illuminate for a number
of reasons. The light should illuminate each time the
key is turned to RUN or START, and it should go out
when the engine starts. If the light stays illumintated or
it illuminates while the engine is running, the CCU is
receiving input that is outside of its established parameters.
Diagnostic Codes/
Chassis Control Unit
(Crossfire/F-Series/
M-Series Models)
These diagnostic codes are flashed by the wrench icon
light incorporated within the speedometer/tachometer.
Refer to the following chart for diagnostic code
sequences.
NOTE: On these double-digit codes (3-1, 3-2, etc.),
the first number indicated will flash in an uninterrupted
sequence, there will be a short pause, and
the second number indicated will flash in an uninterrupted
sequence.
Number of Flashes Trouble
3-1
(CCU Icon)
Stator failure
(input open or shorted).
3-2
(CCU Icon)
High power DC output deactivated
(headlight/handwarmer).
3-3
(CCU Icon)
High power DC output shorted
(headlight/handwarmer).
3-4
(CCU Icon)
Low power DC output deactivated
(gauge/taillight/APV valves).
3-5
(CCU Icon)
Low power DC output shorted
(gauge/taillight/APV valves).
3-6
(CCU Icon)
System under voltage
(below 11 volts).
3-7
(CCU Icon)
System over voltage.
(above 15.5 volts).
3-8
(CCU Icon)
Gear shift actuator failure
(over current or over temperature).
4-2
(CCU Icon)
Tachometer input failure (engine running
- no tachometer
signal present).
4-3
(CCU Icon)
Gear position switch failure (did not
change - no (or invalid)
position input).
4-4
(CCU Icon)
CCU over temperature
(above 105° C - 221° F).
 
Six flashes = power valve problem. Check to make sure that the cables are still in adjustment.

Easy fix unless its a bad servo motor. I've been around this block a few times so if you need help let me know.

I've only had this sled for a few months, I'll do a search for the power valves. Any info on how to check the adjustment on these?
 
Look at the servo and make sure both of the cables are still on. If they are then get a buddy and a track stand and rev the sled up to see if the servo actuates. If not then pull it off and find a 12V power source to test it. Make sure the cables pull free, if not pull the valves off and clean them.

Its probably just a popped off or mis-adjusted cable. No biggy.
 
Look at the servo and make sure both of the cables are still on. If they are then get a buddy and a track stand and rev the sled up to see if the servo actuates. If not then pull it off and find a 12V power source to test it. Make sure the cables pull free, if not pull the valves off and clean them.

Its probably just a popped off or mis-adjusted cable. No biggy.

Cool, I'll check that out tomorrow and see what I can find out. Thanks for the info.
 
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