ANYONE USING BOONDOCKER 3D TUNNING BOX FOR TM1000

[vigorcs90]

No. I have other problems. I cannot get it to rpm past 6500 while on a dyno with no load. I have tried two different ECU'S replaced the CCU, pipe sensor, water temp sensor,tps, ETC, and a second boondocker box. I also had the Stator rebuilt. I removed the boondocker box and the charge tube and ran it that day. No change. I also replaced the fuel board. New plug wires. Fresh plugs and new stock reeds with OVS reed stops. Mag cylinder drop to 400 degrees and the motor surges like the power valves are opening and closing. During a test I held the halves open with no change. I have swapped coils and injectors from left to any right with no change. Every thing ohms out correct with the stator. Amy ideas?

 

[vigorcs90]

After reading my post. I now know not to use my phone to write a letter. Haha. I hope you van read the post with all of the wrong words. Phone has a mind of its own.

 

[M1000Mod162]

No. I have other problems. I cannot get it to rpm past 6500 while on a dyno with no load. I have tried two different ECU'S replaced the CCU, pipe sensor, water temp sensor,tps, ETC, and a second boondocker box. I also had the Stator rebuilt. I removed the boondocker box and the charge tube and ran it that day. No change. I also replaced the fuel board. New plug wires. Fresh plugs and new stock reeds with OVS reed stops. Mag cylinder drop to 400 degrees and the motor surges like the power valves are opening and closing. During a test I held the halves open with no change. I have swapped coils and injectors from left to any right with no change. Every thing ohms out correct with the stator. Amy ideas?

Have you replaced your wiring harness? I had a 2007 m1000 do that almost exact thing and after replacing everything I tried wiring harness and walla she ra perfect!

 

[SHOP!]

No. I have other problems. I cannot get it to rpm past 6500 while on a dyno with no load. I have tried two different ECU'S replaced the CCU, pipe sensor, water temp sensor,tps, ETC, and a second boondocker box. I also had the Stator rebuilt. I removed the boondocker box and the charge tube and ran it that day. No change. I also replaced the fuel board. New plug wires. Fresh plugs and new stock reeds with OVS reed stops. Mag cylinder drop to 400 degrees and the motor surges like the power valves are opening and closing. During a test I held the halves open with no change. I have swapped coils and injectors from left to any right with no change. Every thing ohms out correct with the stator. Amy ideas?

Check your crank case seals just had one do the same type of thing replaced ECU CCU stator wiring harness injectors throttle bodies sensors everything possible. Finally pulled the motor apart and found a crank case seal mag side leaking boost making it run fat. Fixed the problem. You might have had a previous back fire and recked your seal. they won't leak that bad so if there is just a little oil coming out I would change it out. if you do check them make sure you take the 4 bolt cover plate off to get a better look!

Also have you tried unplugging the boondocker piggy backs on the stock injectors and try just running with no BD box? Just plugging in your stock wiring into the injectors.

 

[vigorcs90]

Have you replaced your wiring harness? I had a 2007 m1000 do that almost exact thing and after replacing everything I tried wiring harness and walla she ra perfect!

Its a 2008. The harness was relaced under warranty when the sled was new. I now have it out right now and am checking it over really close.

 

[vigorcs90]

Check your crank case seals just had one do the same type of thing replaced ECU CCU stator wiring harness injectors throttle bodies sensors everything possible. Finally pulled the motor apart and found a crank case seal mag side leaking boost making it run fat. Fixed the problem. You might have had a previous back fire and recked your seal. they won't leak that bad so if there is just a little oil coming out I would change it out. if you do check them make sure you take the 4 bolt cover plate off to get a better look!

Also have you tried unplugging the boondocker piggy backs on the stock injectors and try just running with no BD box? Just plugging in your stock wiring into the injectors.

Yes, i unplugged the boondockers from the injectors and removed the charge tube. It ran exactly the same. I will check the crank seals next.

Thanks

 

[M1000Mod162]

Just because the harness was replaced doesn't mean its still not the problem! I've had a 07 m1000 go through 2 already!

Shop have you got any tunning on your 1200 with 3d yet? I know my numbers won't be the same but I would love to see what you have for ref to compare!

Forgive me but wouldn't you run your crank bierings dry to the point of seisure real fast if your crank seals were leaking! Or does boost change that! I had a seal go out once and it took out the crank biering in a hurry!

 

[vigorcs90]

Just because the harness was replaced doesn't mean its still not the problem! I've had a 07 m1000 go through 2 already!

Shop have you got any tunning on your 1200 with 3d yet? I know my numbers won't be the same but I would love to see what you have for ref to compare!

Forgive me but wouldn't you run your crank bierings dry to the point of seisure real fast if your crank seals were leaking! Or does boost change that! I had a seal go out once and it took out the crank biering in a hurry!

I agree on the wire harness, thats why I have it out again and checking it over very close. As far as the bearing, I dont know. On a boosted sled I have not hd one go out, just make an oily mess.

 

[SHOP!]

It won't on a boosted sled because your a pushing air/oil with boost through the bearings(making that side go fat ). Where a NA sled would be sucking in air (making the sled go lean).

 

[vigorcs90]

I agree on the wire harness, thats why I have it out again and checking it over very close. As far as the bearing, I dont know. On a boosted sled I have not hd one go out, just make an oily mess.

Just checked continuity on every wire on the main harness. Everything checked out.

 

[vigorcs90]

Just checked continuity on every wire on the main harness. Everything checked out.

It never shows any codes on the dash. It is like it is in limp mode. How do i know if it is in a limp mode? If so how do I get it out?

 

[M1000Mod162]

No. I have other problems. I cannot get it to rpm past 6500 while on a dyno with no load. I have tried two different ECU'S replaced the CCU, pipe sensor, water temp sensor,tps, ETC, and a second boondocker box. I also had the Stator rebuilt. I removed the boondocker box and the charge tube and ran it that day. No change. I also replaced the fuel board. New plug wires. Fresh plugs and new stock reeds with OVS reed stops. Mag cylinder drop to 400 degrees and the motor surges like the power valves are opening and closing. During a test I held the halves open with no change. I have swapped coils and injectors from left to any right with no change. Every thing ohms out correct with the stator. Amy ideas?

Im sure you did all this just making sure! Did you unhook the tail light wire(they ground out pretty often). Did you try unhooking all the wiring to the handlebars? Did you replace the coils or just swap them from Pto to Mag? Did you check under the tank to see if those wires arent smashed(I know you said you checked them all for ohms)? If it does that surging with and without boost I sure wouldnt think it would be a crank seal. Let us know how it goes! Good luck

 

[vigorcs90]

Im sure you did all this just making sure! Did you unhook the tail light wire(they ground out pretty often). Did you try unhooking all the wiring to the handlebars? Did you replace the coils or just swap them from Pto to Mag? Did you check under the tank to see if those wires arent smashed(I know you said you checked them all for ohms)? If it does that surging with and without boost I sure wouldnt think it would be a crank seal. Let us know how it goes! Good luck

I have removed the tank and checked the wires. They all check out. I swaped the coils from PTO to Mag and the injectors. No difference. I did not unhook the tail light or unhook the wires to the handlebars. I guess those will be next. Your right the crank seal looks fine. No oil. When it surges the O2 goes very lean. It maxes out the meter at 18 then back to 11 at a rate of 1 per second. Like it is in some kind of limp mode and shutting off the fuel. I have plugged my stock dash back in and it does not show any codes.

 

[M1000Mod162]

I have removed the tank and checked the wires. They all check out. I swaped the coils from PTO to Mag and the injectors. No difference. I did not unhook the tail light or unhook the wires to the handlebars. I guess those will be next. Your right the crank seal looks fine. No oil. When it surges the O2 goes very lean. It maxes out the meter at 18 then back to 11 at a rate of 1 per second. Like it is in some kind of limp mode and shutting off the fuel. I have plugged my stock dash back in and it does not show any codes.

How do you know that the coils arent the problem if you just swapped them from side to side? Have you thought about your tps being screwed up? I had a sled do this before(not a turbo) it was the coils it would run up to about 6800 rpm and just start surging from there!

 

[vigorcs90]

How do you know that the coils arent the problem if you just swapped them from side to side? Have you thought about your tps being screwed up? I had a sled do this before(not a turbo) it was the coils it would run up to about 6800 rpm and just start surging from there!

The ohms are what the book says on both sides of all the coils.
I switched sides because the mag side always drops to 400 egt I wanted to see if I could get the pto side to drop egt temp. It did not. The tps was one of the first things I replaced. Please keep the ideas coming.

 

[snwman77]

I had a bad ho fuel pump from boondockers last year. It was pumping air into the fuel line.

 

[whitdmilkman]

When you tried to run it without a charge tube I hope you didn't have your exhaust hooked up to your turbo and you were "free Spooling it" That can kill a turbo fast. Over spinning them is not a good thing. Your prob ok... I have had a boost tube blow clean off the sled when I was WOT at 14 lbs of boost....Scary...Turbo seemed to be ok after that.....

This may be a stupid question but is the thing stuck in Reverse? I ve had a few do that to me......

twisted crank?

If it were in Limp Mode it would show a code...........

Man issues like this can be frustrating........ Sorry man

 

[vigorcs90]

When you tried to run it without a charge tube I hope you didn't have your exhaust hooked up to your turbo and you were "free Spooling it" That can kill a turbo fast. Over spinning them is not a good thing. Your prob ok... I have had a boost tube blow clean off the sled when I was WOT at 14 lbs of boost....Scary...Turbo seemed to be ok after that.....

This may be a stupid question but is the thing stuck in Reverse? I ve had a few do that to me......

twisted crank?

If it were in Limp Mode it would show a code...........

Man issues like this can be frustrating........ Sorry man

Over reving the turbo, never thought of that. I only ran it to 6000 for a few seconds just to see if there was any difference with no boondocker box and no boost. It ran the same.

I think that I have figured it out. We have Zero snow here so I am running it on a dyno. I was trying to tune at constant rpms. Set the load at 5000 and tune L,M & H. Then 6000 L,M & H and so on. I figured out that the ECU must go into a limp mode when it sees an RPM of 6000 with very low throttle. It must think the belt is broke and limit the fuel and spark. If I set the dyno to start applying load at 5000 increase RPM's at a constant rate the engine appears to run fine. The ECU is in no mans land to increase RPM's with no load to start a dyno run at 6000. Well I have all new parts on an old sled and missed most of the season. Is there anybody out there that has experience with this? Am I on the right track