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Anyone recognize this Pipe system?

Pritty darn sure its straight line performance pipe and its not to be confused with the popular Slp brand which is starting line performance. Seen the pipe in wps catalog claimed it gained like 5-10 horse and needed no programming or clutching "sounded to fishy for me". Also was way to cheap to be true " in my opinion"
 
Ah... I have to pull it off this sled as it has a dent in the side of it. Sounds to me like a stock take off might be a better alternative.

Any idea on the can? Is it a straight line as well or something else. It's pretty loud compared to my Jaws can.
 
Ah... I have to pull it off this sled as it has a dent in the side of it. Sounds to me like a stock take off might be a better alternative.

Any idea on the can? Is it a straight line as well or something else. It's pretty loud compared to my Jaws can.

How bigs the dent? You can pop dents out of pipes a lot of the time
 
pipe

That pipe is a stock pipe ceramic coated. Aftermarket pipes don't use that ring only oem. After market pipes use spring tabs like the y pipe.
 
weld a hook in the center of dent. grab a chain. support pipe around the dent somehow. hook other end of chain up to the hitch of your truck. put pulling pressure on the dent. then heat the dent with a torch
 
veto

my dad was in a real bad accident with about 5 others trying that air pressure method to take a dent out of an object.. was not pretty , think an arm was lost or something crazy , i know one had a football sized chuck ripped out of his shoulder
 
Like mentioned use caution doing the air pressure trick, watched a guy attempt it and blew a chunk out of his work bench when one of his plugs let go. Luckily know one was hurt. Another trick we used to use on bikes is fill the pipe with water and toss it in a chest freezer sometimes it works sometimes not so much.
 
What would you plug the end with?

If you're in construction you're familiar with plumbing test plugs, if not, these:

http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/test-tite-test-plug-1-1-2-in-pressure-relief-83764/p474174

test-tite-83764.jpg;width=300;height=300;bgcolor=White



one side needs to have the schraeder fitting, the other side can just be one of these:

test-tite-83591.jpg;width=300;height=300;bgcolor=White



Just a few psi... like 3, then add heat. The psi is just there to make it move into place once you get it soft. The ice trick IMO is more likely to split the pipe than fix the dent.
 
I have done it by placing one end on the floor with a piece if rubber under it. I wrap my hand over it and shove a blow nozzle between my fingers. As said above 3 lbs is sufficient. If I can't hold the pressure myself, a harmless hiss is all that occurs as my hand breaks loose. When this happens I have one of my kids gently tap the dent edges with a rubber mallet.

Psi is deceptive. 15 lbs will hold a bead on a 300 hp tractor tire, yet placing your finger over the open valve stem will stop the flow.

Capping both pipe ends too tight and throwing open 80-120 lbs from your shop tank is a pretty self explanatory result.
 
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